Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

Roland · August 2023

TTony said:

And another cheat, which I think actually looks better, is to use a ferrule block on the back.

In my eyes this isn’t a cheat. It’s a design improvement. The string ends are anchored more securely, and there’s no risk of individual ferrules falling out and getting lost during a string change. Anyone who’s had to change a string mid gig will know about this.

SteveF · August 2023

Wizzes all round. Those ferrule blocks look the biz and might be the way to go, I wonder about whether the different densities of the various plugs and fillers would make drill bits want to wander so routing a straight channel might just make things a bit easier this time - I am determined that I will do ferrules at least once and get them right though!

I bet the blocks look nice when set into the wood too. Presumably you just make up a template from the outline and rout a cavity for it? Those above look like they have a lip - do you have that sitting proud like some ferrules I see, or have you been making a slightly larger rout at the top to have it flush?

WezV · August 2023

The grainger ones have router templates available for them
https://graingerguitarparts.com/products/grainger-ferrule-block-template-insert-6-sting-105mm-spacing

SteveF · August 2023

Well that is just downright convenient!

WezV · August 2023

Well the template costs more than the insert - you better start some more builds to make it worth it

TTony · August 2023

I made my own templates ....

But buying them is cheaper than buying your own CNC to make them yourself

SteveF · August 2023

Oh you nearly caught me out there.

The insert you linked is 10.5mm string spacing but my bridge is 10.8!

https://northwestguitars.co.uk/products/wilkinson-wtb-telecaster-compatible-ash-tray-bridge-brass-saddles?variant=44261353914642

Check me out checking! I am learning!

SteveF · August 2023

TTony said:

I made my own templates ....

But buying them is cheaper than buying your own CNC to make them yourself

I think I might try that too - the templates there are designed for use with a guide bushing rather than a bearing guided bit so I would need to get some of those too. I will have a go at a template and see how I get on.

davros · August 2023

Should be easy enough to make templates, you have the router table which I use for straight edges - i stick a short piece of angled aluminium on the MDF for the bearing to ride on, but you can use a straight bit of wood. Bobbin sander is wonderful for the non-straight bits but you can use a file/sandpaper.

davros · August 2023

If you have a short bearing bit and a thick enough template then you won't need to worry about the bushing or offsets.

SteveF · August 2023

davros said:

If you have a short bearing bit and a thick enough template then you won't need to worry about the bushing or offsets.

That’s the plan. I think I will try and make the bigger outer one and then make the smaller one so it stacks on top with some index pins the way I should be able to rout the bigger one and then add the smaller template on top nice and centred because of the index pins. In my head that should work?

Roland · August 2023

A ferrule block template is one of the simplest things to make.

davros · August 2023

SteveF said:

davros said:

If you have a short bearing bit and a thick enough template then you won't need to worry about the bushing or offsets.

That’s the plan. I think I will try and make the bigger outer one and then make the smaller one so it stacks on top with some index pins the way I should be able to rout the bigger one and then add the smaller template on top nice and centred because of the index pins. In my head that should work?

Good thinking!

TTony · August 2023

Roland said:

A ferrule block template is one of the simplest things to make.

Don't forget that you need 2 templates, unless you want the lip to sit proud of the back of the body. I always recess mine to keep it nice and smooth.

Roland · August 2023

I make my ferrule bars from 1/4” square section brass rod. There’s no lip.

TTony · August 2023

Roland said:

I make my ferrule bars from 1/4” square section brass rod. There’s no lip.

I hope you make your own brass too?

SteveF · August 2023

Roland said:

I make my ferrule bars from 1/4” square section brass rod. There’s no lip.

Can we see a pic? Bet they look cool in situ

SteveF · August 2023

So, the internet appears to be divided. Fretting the neck - before or after carving the profile?

PeteC · August 2023

I do it before - so that I have a flat back to the neck and can either hammer or drill press the frets in more easily

TTony · August 2023

PeteC said:

I do it before - so that I have a flat back to the neck and can either hammer or drill press the frets in more easily

Or, if you've got a suitable support for the underside of the neck, you can shape first, fret second

WezV · August 2023

I've done it both ways, prefer to do it after shaping even if its a bit fiddlier to get a good position at the transitions.

What I can't abide is fretting the board before its even attached... but some do, especially with Gibson style binding with nibs

Roland · August 2023

I do it after. It means that I can clamp the neck to the bench without damaging the frets.

davros · August 2023

I don't actually remember which I do first...maybe I've done a mixture on different builds! I think last time I mostly shaped the neck, fretted it, glued it in the finished the transitions at the ends.

SteveF · August 2023

I do have one of these:

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/1f5d6aec1428f08d8a027d286674e675f864a7d221445d7dc1

Is that the main/only benefit of doing the frets first? I wondered about leaving them til after in case I messed up the carve and therefore wouldn't waste the fretwire.

TTony · August 2023

Roland said:

I do it after. It means that I can clamp the neck to the bench without damaging the frets.

SteveF said:

I do have one of these:

One of those is what you need.

WezV · August 2023

SteveF said:

I do have one of these:

Cut a block of wood to go under the heel to match that
.. then the neck is fully supported when fretting above the transition from neck to heel

SteveF · August 2023

Thanks Wez, will do

SteveF · August 2023

Got the headstock thicknessed and the transition from the fingerboard done today.

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/1adf4bbea82e4b00d4184957d03052a3d105926f7f1e8350af

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/d45b96cea596fb16bd433ac1fb90d2ddd8e447427cb561d56f

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/be7f2b91f34aa7a80166252c04d3cc817ac4b206e26daf83dc

SteveF · August 2023

Question re: drill bits. Is there a particular name for the long ones that have a straight shank except for the last few inches? I’m struggling to find via google.

WezV · August 2023

What job is it for?

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Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

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