Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions! - Making & Modding Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

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Hi all, 

After building my @BoltGuitarsUK kit, I have got the bug and want to have a go at something with a bit more of the actual woodworking, so as with everything, I have decided to jump in and have a go at making a guitar.  I fully expect to screw this up royally and therefore I will be going cheap for the body/neck materials to begin with.

 I will have questions and hope that the wonderful people here will help me out with their knowledge so I thought I would keep it tidy and throw things into this thread as a bit of a progress thread and an ongoing Q&A if that's ok?

 I appreciate the level of knowledge and experience in here and I'm sure most of the questions I have will have come up for someone before (of course I will try and search for the answers too, but as with anything it seems, the internet is deeply divided even on the basic stuff! (I went down a plane sharpening thread rabbit hole earlier  :s

Anyway, the first thing I needed was somewhere to work.  The bit of offcut cupboard door clamped to a stool that I used for my kit build wasn't going to cut it for a full build so I built myself a small workbench.  

It is still in progress, and still needs a shelf on the bottom and a vice on the overhang. I think I will build an apron on the front which will also serve as the inner face of the vice.  I will put some dogholes in the top and on the apron and along with the 2" overhang I left on the back and right hand side, I should have enough options for work holding at least to get me started. The good news is it's solid and doesn't wobble! :D 



The other bit of good news is, by happy coincidence it is almost the same height as this IKEA trolley I have sat in the garage.  In fact it is exactly 3mm taller, so I should be able to pop some 3mm hardboard on top of the trolley and that will give me an extension that I can put to the right hand side if I need to support some longer stuff or while cutting anything. 



So my first question is, what should I finish/protect the top of the bench with?  I was thinking yacht varnish or similar, but wonder whether I should just go for an oil of some kind?  Any advice?  The top is 2 pieces of 18mm ply.  The bottom bit it screwed to the legs and then the top is glued on.  Should I screw through the top as well or will the glue (gorilla glue original wood glue) be enough? 




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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Second question.  I managed to pick up this Triton 1400W router for a great price today from Toolstation (approx 100 off RRP).  What bits would people recommend?  I intend to make a Tele style first, so assume I will need some kind of roundover bit for the body edge, a flush cut bit of some type for routing the truss, pickup, control and neck cavities along some templates and I will probably get a 45 degree chamfer bit for general stuff (maybe the edge of the workbench?). 



    Further power tool question - I don't have a bandsaw yet (and it may be a while) and I am planning to cut out the body with a jigsaw.  Do I need any particular kind of blades that people would recommend?  I think the body will be something like poplar, neck maple or similar and fingerboard - whatever is cheap! Will a jigsaw go through all that at the depth of a body/neck blank?  Anything to watch out for? 

    Thanks all in advance - your help is always much appreciated! :) 
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    Protect the top against what?

    I’ve built a fair few guitars now, and my bench top(s) is(are) still fine.
    :)

    A sheet of thin (cheap) sacrificial MDF?
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8108
    Sacrificial mdf, then you’re not worried about damaging it. Mine’s not been changed in ten years.
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Oh just more if it gets damp in my garage in the winter (it will, I live near Glasgow and it got damp at times last year). 
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    SteveF said:
    Oh just more if it gets damp in my garage in the winter (it will, I live near Glasgow and it got damp at times last year). 
    It’s only damp in Scotland between January & December.


    Router bits.
    Mostly, people build using templates.  You get / make the templates, and then copy the shape of the template onto the blank using bearing guided router bits.  Sometimes the bearing is above the cutter, sometimes below it.

    Wealden Tools is a good source.  You’ll probably need 3-4 bits of varying length.


    Are you following a plan / approach for this build, or making it up as you go along?  Building a guitar is complex, but simple if you break it down into the 100-odd simple jobs that come together to make the guitar.  The trick is doing those 100-odd jobs in the right order.
    ;)
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Haha, yes Jan-Dec sounds about right! (although it has been glorious this month). 

    Thanks, I will check out Wealden.  I assume I need something good quality and sharp to avoid damaging/gouging the body.  In terms of radius of the bits, what is the biggest/smallest I will need for straight and what roundover?  

    I watched a Crimson 5 video series on Triton tools channel of building a Tele style and whilst there were little bits skipped over a bit quick, I think the general flow seemed to make sense. It was this one 


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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    edited June 2023
    With the router, it’s more about direction of travel vs the grain direction, and not trying to cut too much in one go.  

    Is it 1/4” or 1/2”?



    PS 
    If you really get into this building thing, Mark Bailey runs courses just down the road in Ayr.
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8108
    Router bits: it really depends on what you’re going to do with them. Your router collet looks like 1/4” diameter. For a straight sided body I’d use three 12.7mm bearing guided bits with lengths of 25mm, 12mm and 9mm. For example https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Template_Trim_279.html

    If you’re going to round over the body then a cheap set of kitchen installer bits should give you 1/4” and 1/2” diameter round over bits, and a box to keep them in. You can get these from Screwfix and the like, but don’t go for the cheapest bits - I’ve had them fracture, and damaged the wood.

    If you’re going to bind the body then, to cut the channel, you need a bit with the bearing at the other end, and a bearing diameter smaller than the bit diameter. For this you definitely need to look at Wealdon Tools.

    As with all tools they can be expensive. I’d buy what you need when you need it. If your working area is damp then keep the edged tools in the house.


    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Thanks both, very helpful! 

    @TTony i didn’t realise the Bailey courses were up here. I might look into that :)
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    The router is this one https://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Product/Power%20Tools/Routers/MOF001

    it has a 1/4” and 8mm collet apparently 
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    1/4” is fine.

    I’ve got a big 1/2” jobbie too, but it’s not necessary for guitar building.  Manoueverability is more important.  Make yourself a decent router base - that’ll make some of the jobs a lot easier.


    Mark is a brilliant teacher.  Website is crap.  Best to phone them (and it might take many attempts to get through!) or email. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MBGX418/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item

    This seems reasonable for a brand that I recognise? As far as I can tell it should do Tele (1/4” round over) Strat (1/2” round over) and flush cutting deep enough to do a body? And probably a neck but might have to flip it?
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  • idiotwindidiotwind Frets: 214
    When I built my bass last year with no prior experience or kit I got that exact set plus a couple of extras from Wealden. The extras I got were a 6mm straight bit for the truss rod, a 9.5 x 12mm template bit for things like the pickup cavity and a 20mm bottom trim bit which I used for thickness/surfacing.

    Are there better bits? Sure, but that set was fine for me. From what I remember it was the cost of roundover bits that made me look at it.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Thanks @idiotwind really useful! :) 
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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 1583
    Freddy G did a great, comprehensive build series of a les Paul. There’s a lot more info than you’ll need for a tele, but it’ll all be helpful. 

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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Great, thanks. :) like you say it will all be useful info!
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Bit more work done on the bench/work area.  Now has a lower shelf and a back panel so I can store some of the bigger tools underneath.  Still need to fit a vice - the one I had ordered was a little big so replacing with a smaller one.  



    Got some templates and timber on order.  I'll update when I have them. 


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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    Those bikes are going to get covered in sawdust ...
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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 1583
    My first thought too!
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    TTony said:
    Those bikes are going to get covered in sawdust ...
    They already did. :D I have cleaned them and have a tarp on the way :) 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    I'm also hoping that the shop vac and dust trap might help a little bit
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  • KalimnaKalimna Frets: 1486
    I see you're in Paisley. Im not *too* far down the road in Deanston, just north of Stirling. You are very welcome to pop along and have a nosey/hands on with the gear I've got that I use for homebuilds. I started with a Bailey's course, and a great experience it was, but I would recommend something like the O'Brien online courses if you want to learn to do it yourself. At Bailey's, there was less time for the 'why' and the 'how', and more akin to 'do it this way'.

    Adam
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Thank you Adam, very kind.  I will check those O'Brien courses out and I have already sent an email to Bailey's although I got a reply initially and nothing since. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Wow, the O'Brien ones (now LuthierieAcademy) look like they are very comprehensive.  I will have a look at the sample lessons.  The build an electric course is ~$250 but to be fair it's 14 and a half hours of video so actually seems pretty reasonable. 
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  • KalimnaKalimna Frets: 1486
    SteveF said:
    Wow, the O'Brien ones (now LuthierieAcademy) look like they are very comprehensive.  I will have a look at the sample lessons.  The build an electric course is ~$250 but to be fair it's 14 and a half hours of video so actually seems pretty reasonable. 
    I have the electric, archtop and classical courses. They are excellent resources, and well worth the cost.
    The other thing i would absolutely recommend are books by Melvyn Hiscock, and Cumpiano/Natelson. The Cumpiano is acoustic based, but the info is absolutely applicable to electrics and the writing style is a rare treat.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    I have the newer edition of Melvyn Hiscok's book.  I will check out the others :) 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Well, this is all very exciting - this stuff just arrived.  Hard to believe all this will become a guitar (hopefully)



    I went pretty cheap for this first build - I fully accept that I may duff up a blank or two so I went with poplar/tulipwood for the body and a plain maple neck with rosewood board (I do have a pre-slotted board too in case my initial attempt fails, but figured I would have a go) I'm not worried about the grain etc on the body blank - it's going to be painted. 

    I also picked these up on eBay.  They seemed to be the most comprehensive templates I could see on there, marked with centrelines etc.  Hopefully they should work ok.  My first task will be making some copies of the templates.  That should help me get comfortable with the saw and router etc.  



    My first observation is that the slot on the template for the truss rod seems to be approximately 350mm long.  Most of the rods I can see for electric online are around 440/460mm.  I haven't bought one yet as I wasn't sure which I needed.  Am I to assume that the slot in the template provides the end of the slot and you would extend it one way or another depending whether you want the adjustment at head or heel and. based on what length your particular rod is? 


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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 26143
    SteveF said:
    Thank you Adam, very kind.  I will check those O'Brien courses out and I have already sent an email to Bailey's although I got a reply initially and nothing since. 
    Carol’s been away.  Back now, she’ll get to you (admin isn’t a great strength!


    Curious that the truss rod slot is so short.  It has to extend to either the headstock or the heel.  Try asking the seller?
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    Yeah she did say in her email that things had been a little ad hoc recently - I'm in no rush :) 

    I did assume that was the case with the truss rod.  I can only assume it's to give the option to do either.  I think I will be planning on doing a headstock adjustment.  I will send the seller a message and see what they say :) 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 505
    edited July 2023
    Makes sense to me: 

    Morning Steve, The truss rod access on these templates for vintage style one way rods fitted into one piece maple necks mounted from the back of the neck (Skunk stripe), most Fender truss rods these days are two way rods mounted underneath the fretboard. Here’s a very useful link www.youtube.com/live/pjcjeMmRxNE?feature=share

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