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the traditional fender rod needs a curved channel and drilling for access with special jigs. Its a shorter back route because the ends are done with the drilling jig I think the Hiscock book covers one way of doing this on the tele style build, but it is unnecessary if going with a separate board and modern 2-way rod
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Don't try to take too much off in one pass with the router, I've seen some people going for huge passes and ending up with nasty tear out routers biting and doing what they want. Quick way to ruin a piece. Best to draw your outline on your wood and cut as close to the line as you can and then take small nibbles with the router. Never more than half the diameter of the bit if you can help it. I fancy doing a video on the subject on my YT at some point, unless one already exists.
And use masking tape and superglue to stick your templates down - Piece of tape on the template and the body (other template if you make more) and glue them together. Works a treat and simple to remove when you're done.
And remember that centre line. If you can keep it accurate it makes lining things up much easier.
Sorry for the essay, just catching up lol
Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.
https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/
(Made in UK, eBay is his sales channel)
Gone fairly conservative for the first build. Hardware mostly from Northwest Guitars, with some Nitro ordered from @SteveRobinson and a fortyniner/honky tonk angel pickup set from @OilCityPickups. I've also got fretwire and MOP dots from David Dyke. Only other thing was a control plate with slanted switch from (I think) axesrus.
I also plumped for the O'Brien electric guitar course to give me a detailed process to follow (thanks for the recommendation @Kalimna ). Watching through it ahead of getting started but it seems well presented and very detailed.
It's all part of the service.
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog
And the Bagpress jig arrived - seems extremely well built. Such a clever system.
250k pots - it should be.
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog
So first lesson learned - be more careful when ordering parts. Managed to end up with left handed tuners
No harm done. After a brief moment of considering a reverse headstock, I ordered some more and will save these for a future project, maybe get another right handed set and then have a couple of sets of 3 a side.
Itching to get started but had one more thing to do to finish off my workbench first.
Got the vice face made and fitted the vice. All went fairly smoothly.
Then I thought I would make a start on copying the templates. Just got them roughly cut out with a jigsaw before I ran out of time. Going to have to tidy them up a little before flush trimming them with the router.
Afromosia is another dense tropical hardwood, chocolatey brown with interlocked grain (damn awkward to plane), the dust is like ground pepper.....
Been working through watching the O’Brien guitar course - great content. Love that he’s making a bolt on and a carved top set neck too - double the value!
I made a start on the body blank. Not a straight or flat side was to be found anywhere so I figured I better learn to use a plane! A few YouTube videos later and I had a couple of sharp and set up planes. Did the edge first and also flattened and squared one face which will be the bottom. I’ll do the top once it’s all together. Glue up seemed to go ok. Found it tricky holding it together while trying to get it clamped up. I’m sure there’s a knack. Also not sure I have the best clamps for that job, but they seem to have done ok.
After that I made a start on the neck. Again, not flat or square anywhere so flattened the top and then squared one edge to use for reference. Whacked the centreline on and marked where the nut will go. Wasn’t 100% sure where to locate the truss rod so a bit more YouTubing and went for just short of where the nut is. Then some head scratching to work out the best way to approach it. The guide on my router was deeper than the neck blank so I needed to raise it up. Went for screwing the blank to a couple of 2x2s with some sticking out the ends to clamp to the bench. I made sure I placed one of the clamps such that it would act as a stop for the end of the channel. The plan was to do a few passes using the reference edge as a rail for the guide fence. Unfortunately on the first pass I was too busy checking how it was cutting and didn’t focus on keeping it tight to the edge so had a small wobble. It was only in the first pass and only about 2mm deep so I don’t think it will matter and it will be covered by the fingerboard. Widened and tidied up the nut end with a chisel and I think it’s ok definitely a part I was really worried about. All in all a good weekend’s start to the project
Regarding your query about clamps - you could do with a few more. I suspect it would be difficult to get suitable clamping pressure with those f-clamps. If you can get hold of some use sash-clamps (or cramps, Ive never worked out the difference), they will do a much better job. As for holding it all whilst applying the clamps? Practice, and several dry (i.e. no glue) run throughs. And have everything ready to hand so there's less mental stress once glue is applied! The number of times I've found myself sprinting around my garage looking for extra clamps.......
Happily it is now unclamped and all seems to have cured ok and seems to be still flat and well bonded as far as I can tell. I will definitely look for some more suitable clamps for the next build though.
I strangely like the smell of Padauk, reminds me of a kind of Vanilla perfume
Link to Amazon
I have a bunch of these (well, an older model) and would recommend them as a good compromise between price and utility.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-trade-clamps-sash-clamp-760mm-505578?queryID=892a7be25e2b13b0723c3a366941c521