Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

SteveF · July 2023

Thanks both. Looks like two different but fairly straightforward ways to do it.

WezV · July 2023

I do have a big version like Davros too, wouldn't be without it. You can also angle the bottom rails for doing things like neck angles

davros · July 2023

WezV said:

I do have a big version like Davros too, wouldn't be without it. You can also angle the bottom rails for doing things like neck angles

And angling the top/neck plane for les pauls!

WezV · July 2023

that's what I meant, Althoguh I have done them on the heel too with the same jig

SteveF · July 2023

Amazing what a bit of sandpaper will do!

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/32f2254142e507ec033cc63b77dd3f86acbc51cfb335ea72ed

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/a23e020a0a21636b97d0b335f24ad8bdc5fef9d9f69df730aa

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/9132f4a4207c6dfa2199ee1e64f6ebc0bb55a8fc33f9aa87ff

I need to round over the edges where they finish at the neck pocket - just need to work out the best/easiest way to do it - they're pretty thin and fragile at the ends. I'm currently thinking just a sharp chisel to cut down vertically and then just rub the corner over with some sandpaper.

Also need to get the holes through the cavities. I am assuming it's 3 holes - one from neck pocket into peck pickup and straight through to the small central channel, one from the central channel to the control cavity and one from the bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity?

WezV · July 2023

Can't even tell you had to glue a new bit on the body

WezV · July 2023

Are you using a neck plate.... if so, have you added too much roundover in that area..

I did it on one of my first fender style builds, solved it by angling the whole heel section

SteveF · July 2023

WezV said:

Can't even tell you had to glue a new bit on the body

WezV said:

Are you using a neck plate.... if so, have yoy added too much roundover in that area.

I am planning to. I don't think so. I stopped the actual roundover before the neck pocket area and just softened the edges by hand.

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/6caa2e9d370ddb0001bed6c2000b707ff589f2009a4c6d5fa9

I did try and blend down to the cutaway though, so it is possible. I will have to check with the plate I have (should have done that at the time, clearly!

) Worst case, I can always get one of those curved corner ones like the American Professionals have and then totally round off that corner and make it look like it was on purpose. Or I could use inset washers I guess.

WezV · July 2023

I just took a rasp from the corner to flatten off an angled section... then blended into the flat plane of the body. Softens that sharp corner, but still looks stock from the back. I actually did it on purpose after that

SteveF · July 2023

I think I am just about ok - close though

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/9486b3d07e904babad31cb5abc128adbb8a626a7539cccea3c

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/0a3d1e2be94d3dd7044a95458bd1dbf31bef3159320a7c471d

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/ddefefb2dffd708db196ddc31bbbca3e37befab25c517a92e5

Could potentially go down the route of a curved neck plate or bushings if that looks too close.

Something like this perhaps: set-of-4-guitar-neck-joint-bushings-ferrules-14mm-x-5mm

SO MANY LESSONS!

TTony · July 2023

I *always* prefer the bushings rather than a plate. So much neater (IMHO of course!)

SteveF · July 2023

Do you use 12 or 14mm bushings? Any particular things to watch out for (distance from edge etc)? I assume a forstner bit or something similar to drill the recesses and then drill through for the screws (or vice versa). Maybe half inch hole to fit the 12mm bushings to allow for some finish width?

WezV · July 2023

I think you've got lucky on it, but it will work. I don't mind a neck plate

Roland · July 2023

From a playability point of view I like bushings, or failing the a curve edge plate.

elstoof · July 2023

Could route a recess for the plate to sit flush in

HilditchGuitars · July 2023

It always amuses me in life, when I see someone in a place where I've been and remind myself that it does in fact happen to the best of us and I'm not just a total idiot haha. All mistakes I've made, and good to see others have too. But that's a great fix and exactly what I would have done too.
I always go for the bushings as I too think they're neater than a plate. Plus you can use proper machine screws and threaded inserts in the neck for a nice positive grip. And you can round off the heel on the body for comfier playing at 'the dusty end'

Looking great though, keep up the good work

WezV · July 2023

Here is the Tom Anderson version of the angled heel. It's subtle, but makes a big difference to feel. just watch out for screw lengths with anything angled or recessed

Image: https://static.ten-guitars.de/Tom%20Anderson/2000_tom_anderson_hollow_t_classic_butterscotch-15056-1920x1080.jpg

WezV · July 2023

elstoof said:

Could route a recess for the plate to sit flush in

whilst possible, its tricky to do well in this area. Even if done perfectly, the wood border will be quite weak.

Best to stick to simpler fixes for a first build

SteveF · July 2023

Definitely wanted to get this finished before attempting any routing of the neck.

Just need a handful of 1/4”-20 wing nuts and I should be good to go. The router has a built in lift which is handy and the Kreg plate came pre-drilled for Triton routers so all nice and easy.

Decided to do a routed recess for the plate, rather than spend the extra on the precision adjustable corner plates. I purposely routed about 1/2mm too deep and shimmed with some tape to get the plate perfectly flush with the top of the table.

Only downside I can see is that to set it up for the table I needed to take the plunge spring out and the sub-base plate off so moving it from table to plunge mode is a little bit of a faff. Might have to find a second router for doing the cavities at some stage so I can leave it set up.

PeteC · July 2023

Good stuff - you’ll find it very useful. A second router is a good idea too. I can recommend the Makita RT0700 for the smaller jobs - it also has an optional plunge base which is dead handy for routing cavities and the like.

davros · July 2023

That looks great. I've managed to end up with 4 routers now, an old one in the router table, a bosch one for plunging, a small one for smaller cavities and a 1/2 inch one just for rounding over amp and speaker cabinets.

If you're looking for a cheaper non plunge small router I can vouch for this Katsu one, only 40 quid and does the job.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/101748-Electric-Trimmer-Laminator-Joiners/dp/B00LVVJ99U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=120722985787&hvadid=606275874391&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1006573&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9397572158766424035&hvtargid=kwd-306921078950&hydadcr=18254_2289250&keywords=katsu+router&qid=1690703239&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

SteveF · July 2023

Thanks both - I am going to have a bit of a think about what I am after from the other router. I am not sure a small trim router is what I am after.

I can essentially see me using the table for doing basically all the outlines. I think I will want the other to do the pickup and neck cavities as well as the truss rod channel. I also think I will potentially want something of a reasonable size to enable putting on one of those sleds to do thicknessing stuff. So something reasonable size but not too unwieldy. Part of me wonders about just buying the same router again - I know how to use it now, and it has some useful features. Any other recommendations?

Re: the table mounted router - you can get a 1/2” collet for this router. Is it worth doing that and getting a more sturdy 1/2” shaft template bit for the table or am I worrying about nothing?

WezV · July 2023

I have 2 of the katsu routers with 4 bases set up in different jigs. They are a bargain.

I also have the bosch version with a couple of different bases.

I do most of my routing with these smaller routers.

davros · July 2023

2 of the same router is a good shout - means you can interchange and those triton ones are pretty nice.

1/2 inch shaft doesn't really work for a template bit with the bearing on the shaft imo, the cutter diameter would need to be pretty large.

PeteC · July 2023

The table router will do for your truss rod channel too. You just have to set up a suitable fence and do the channel before you cut the neck taper.

Its a good way to get a really accurate cut.

Roland · July 2023

SteveF said:

Definitely wanted to get this finished before attempting any routing of the neck.

I now have tool envy.

Kalimna · July 2023

davros said:

2 of the same router is a good shout - means you can interchange and those triton ones are pretty nice.

1/2 inch shaft doesn't really work for a template bit with the bearing on the shaft imo, the cutter diameter would need to be pretty large.

I disagree regarding the 1/2" not suitable for a template bit. Almost all of my templates are perfectectly fine with both top and bottom bearings on a 1/2" bit. The only time i have found a 1/4" necessary is when routing pickup pockets - and that is purely because of the corner radius.

As you say, 2 of the same router is a good shout - time for me to browse Axminster again!

SteveF · July 2023

Well, Tool Station had this Triton router on clearance still. Out of stock online and only 1 in stock for collection that happened to be about 20 miles away from me, so I thought I'd take a quick outing.

SteveF · July 2023

Roland said:

SteveF said:

Definitely wanted to get this finished before attempting any routing of the neck.

I now have tool envy.

Haha, thanks @Roland . Frame was mostly cobbled together from leftover timber from when I built my bench. Cheap MDF sheet from B&Q and then an insert plate from Amazon.

SteveF · July 2023

Been mulling over the next steps and thinking about the order of operations to do the neck/fingerboard. I have seen various ways online - does this seem sensible enough - any dissent?

Rough cut out neck shape and flush trim to template
Prep/flatten the board
Slot the board
Glue board to neck
Flush trim board to neck
Inlay dots
Radius board
Recheck slot depth
Fret

The main thing that jumps out at me is - radiusing the board that is tapered (whether before or after trimming) will result in the board being thicker at the nut end than the body end. Is this likely to be noticeable? Is it normal? Am I supposed to try and avoid it somehow? Surely the only way to do that is to have a compound radius? I am currently planning on a consistent 10" radius using a 450mm aluminium radius block as it seemed the simplest approach.

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Starting out in guitar building - There will be questions!

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