Post-Lockdown pedal building

marauder · March 2021

Good to see people still DIYing pedals, after me and Juansolo gave up a couple of years ago.
There's still a mini mountain of PCBs, if anyone is interested in some, then send me a PM.

Keefy · March 2021

idiotwind said:

I've finished step 1 of going beyond buying full kits for pedals. This was using a PCB from Fuzzdog but getting the components separately, drilling the enclosure etc.

It's the Vintage Pow, which is a Colorsound Powerboost clone with added Master Volume. It has a charge pump to get close to 18v from a 9v supply and I used BC184L transistors. I had initially planned on an orange enclosure, but that would have limited my graphic options, so went for a white box with the orange done on white decal paper. The LED is orange, and I went for a bit of orange wire inside.

Step 2, which is built but not boxed, is a simple vero build so that I have at least some experience of working with it before step 3, a decidedly non-simple vero build.

That looks great!

Vero board - definitely start simple, there are so many ways to cock that up!

idiotwind · March 2021

Got the next one finished. A little baby step into the world of vero:

This is a copy of a Lovepedal JTM. I wanted a nice and simple practice circuit with minimal extra components to buy in (I even faked some 3K3 resistors with 3K and 300R joined up). This is the one with the flipped daughterboard which has contributed to things being a bit messy. I used an amp style jewel light, but took out the bulb that came with it and mounted a 5mm white LED in there instead. I had a decal designed, sort of a Marshall faceplate style thing, but when mocking it up I decided that the gold Marshall knob and big red light looked great on the black, and it's so simple it doesn't really need labels.

As for the pedal itself, I read a review on the Fuzzdog site for their version (Just The Meat) where someone said it may as well be a toggle switch, not a knob. To an extent I agree. Gives a basic boost all the way up to 95% when it suddenly kicks in and overdrives.

Next up is the big boy - the Multiplex Echo Machine. A 28x26 vero with 26 links and 72 cuts, twin PT2399 chips and a lot to fit in.

Keefy · March 2021

idiotwind said:

Got the next one finished. A little baby step into the world of vero:

This is a copy of a Lovepedal JTM. I wanted a nice and simple practice circuit with minimal extra components to buy in (I even faked some 3K3 resistors with 3K and 300R joined up). This is the one with the flipped daughterboard which has contributed to things being a bit messy. I used an amp style jewel light, but took out the bulb that came with it and mounted a 5mm white LED in there instead. I had a decal designed, sort of a Marshall faceplate style thing, but when mocking it up I decided that the gold Marshall knob and big red light looked great on the black, and it's so simple it doesn't really need labels.

As for the pedal itself, I read a review on the Fuzzdog site for their version (Just The Meat) where someone said it may as well be a toggle switch, not a knob. To an extent I agree. Gives a basic boost all the way up to 95% when it suddenly kicks in and overdrives.

Next up is the big boy - the Multiplex Echo Machine. A 28x26 vero with 26 links and 72 cuts, twin PT2399 chips and a lot to fit in.

Hmm, i'm not sure I'd want to rely on that piece of grip mat to stop the board shorting on the case!

Looking forward to the Echo Machine - will it have modulation?

idiotwind · March 2021

Keefy said:

Hmm, i'm not sure I'd want to rely on that piece of grip mat to stop the board shorting on the case!

Looking forward to the Echo Machine - will it have modulation?

I see what you mean. It's folded over and there's some tape under there, so it's a bit thicker, but I could slip some foam or electrical tape under there as well. Belt and braces kind of thing.

I'm not putting the modulation in the Echo Machine, but I am going to hook up the momentary footswitch so that it can be either the speed effect as normal, or so that it maxes out the feedback pot.

jonnygreentrees · March 2021

Just made this JHS Angry Charlie from the FuzzDog kit to try in the distortion slot on my board. Sound raucous and very Marshall-like

idiotwind · March 2021

Third and final pedal for a while is now finished. A vero copy of the 1776 Effects Multiplex Echo Machine. A twin-PT2399 delay with three modes to change the routing and emulate either an Echorec, an RE-201 or an Echoplex. A momentary footswitch lets you either "detune" (by slowly ramping up the delay speed) or "slam" (by maxing the feedback) - the original only has the detune.

Made things harder than it needed to be in some places. For example, polyboxes were not the best choice as it is pretty cramped in some places and in others I had to tack on longer leads as the legs couldn't span 7 rows. Also I probably should have trimmed the wires going down to the pots. Fortunately I got a 1590BBS to put it on, which is a bit deeper than a standard BB. It's also a bit close for comfort down by the DC input and 3PDT.

Only problem now is that the momentary switch seems to have crapped out - thanks Tayda. If I manually bridge the contacts it works, but the switch itself only seems to work rarely. Got a replacement on the way and that should be an easy swap.

In an ideal world I'd have got the PCB, but the shipping over from the States was crazy. This works, but it was a bit of a slog.

Cookiemonster · March 2021

Well just finished my 13th circuit now and it worked first time !!
Now what to build next

andy_k · March 2021

So bored, so I fancied a bit of a challenge.
I said my last build would be my last, for my eyes sake, but I felt I needed a distraction so I decided on something a bit tricky.
In the Fuzzdog range, this is described as being a 'Hard' build, and I accepted the risk.
First step was opening the packet, and being overwhelmed by the number of parts.
All good quality stuff, and armed with the instructions printed out, I began to see what we had to play with.
First hurdle came when I tried the screw that hold the lid on, wrong thread, so I put the bags away and sent an e-mail.
No biggie, I need to order some knobs, so I figured I would let him know the screws were wrong, and just need to make sure the knobs are in stock and he can send the right screws with them, so I thought I would check all the other parts first.
There are a lot of parts here, and my intention was to quickly check everything before I get my order in.
Hasn't quite worked out that way, I started with the resistors, by sorting them into matching groups and checking with the BOM.
This is what I ended up with.

Process of elimination gives me a few groups of 2,3, 5,6, and a few individuals on the right end of the top row, and a set of 8 diodes which I couldn't read without a magnifying glass.

One of them is not like the others.
I got busy with the iron on the things I was sure of, and managed to get all the resistors, and about half of the polybox caps done.
I'll try and get some more pics done of the progress, but I am taking my time with this build as I agree with it being a 'Hard' build due to the simple fact that any simple mistake with it will be difficult to diagnose, let alone put right.
It is fun, and has passed some valuable time, but I will be gutted if it doesn't work first time.
A few of the individual resistors were difficult to check, colours were hard to make out and I really need a better multimeter, and it isn't worth me getting one just to complete this build, but I do know I need one.
Each build I have done has taught me something about the process, and I am slowly learning that it is impossible to make it anything other than a fun hobby, as long as it stays fun.
The next post will reveal what it actually is, but the diodes shown above might give a clue, and one of them is really not like the others.
Laters.

andy_k · March 2021

idiotwind said:

Third and final pedal for a while is now finished. A vero copy of the 1776 Effects Multiplex Echo Machine. A twin-PT2399 delay with three modes to change the routing and emulate either an Echorec, an RE-201 or an Echoplex. A momentary footswitch lets you either "detune" (by slowly ramping up the delay speed) or "slam" (by maxing the feedback) - the original only has the detune.

Made things harder than it needed to be in some places. For example, polyboxes were not the best choice as it is pretty cramped in some places and in others I had to tack on longer leads as the legs couldn't span 7 rows. Also I probably should have trimmed the wires going down to the pots. Fortunately I got a 1590BBS to put it on, which is a bit deeper than a standard BB. It's also a bit close for comfort down by the DC input and 3PDT.

Only problem now is that the momentary switch seems to have crapped out - thanks Tayda. If I manually bridge the contacts it works, but the switch itself only seems to work rarely. Got a replacement on the way and that should be an easy swap.

In an ideal world I'd have got the PCB, but the shipping over from the States was crazy. This works, but it was a bit of a slog.

Such a nice build,must be great to know what you are doing, the box looks amazing. I have a Juansolo build that is similar, but find the 'Slam' mode on mine is a bit dangerous, I would prefer it to be a 'Detune' and would love to be able to change it-circuit board based so probably impossible.
Nice work.

abw1989 · March 2021

Here's my first attempt at a pedal build, more of a pedal mod but baby steps!

Took two Mosky clones of a Klon and a Tube Screamer and rehoused them in a single enclosure with an over bypass switch and a toggle to change the order of which is first in the chain. Housed in a Charlie Brown themed case:

andy_k · March 2021

Day 2 of latest build.
This is where we pick up-

I already had fitted the diodes, using a process of elimination, 7 of them I could read, and one was different, so I made the decision to solder them in with a little more leg than I would have liked, in case I have to go back in and re do anything.
This build is about to get severely congested, and every joint was done with utmost care-I really do not want to go back on it.
Jumping ahead a bit, the plan was to just get the soldering done, and take some time to actually paint the box properly, but impatience got the better of me, and it had to be mounted in the box to get the pots to line up, so here it is waiting for the back to go on.

I left the leads all a bit long, which will allow me to get it all back out fairly easily, and at this point I didn't think it would be working.
This circuit is dual purpose, and there are deliberate omissions, and a few jumpers.
working from the instructions and photos, there is a mistake.
The BOM for the version I am making is the one shown in the pictures, except the pictures show a ceramic cap in C28.
I did not have this cap, NOT listed in BOM, but clearly in the photo reference.
I attached a rechargeable battery snap, and sure enough-no lights.
Damn I thought, but thought I would check with another battery, and this time-Hey Presto, lights.
This doesn't prove anything yet, and I have had enough by now, thinking it all has to come out anyway to fit the final cap, and to give the box a coat of paint,
I made some space, and plugged in, with all knobs at zero, and no battery attached. No signal, so I pushed down on the ICs, to check they were all in place, and got a clean bypassed sound.
I screwed the back on with 2 screws robbed from another build (I am missing the 4 correct threaded screws remember )
and started to bring up the vol and gain, all seems to be good.
Checked the B,M,T, all good, and the boost and channel switch are working as expected.
Maybe the missing cap is just there as something to trip people up, or it has been taken out of the final kit?
I just have to get some knobs ordered, and I may keep it looking industrial, I'll make my mind up when I find out if I need to have that cap in there.

Not really ready to have a long blast through it today, but it is easily the best amp in a box pedal I have heard to date, and the built in boost is handy, I wish it was a separate boost which could be used on its own, but I guess you can't have everything AND keep things simple.
Not really a 'Hard' pedal, but definitely a bit of a leap of faith for me.
I'll follow up with a finished pic, when it gets finished.
TTFN

Cookiemonster · March 2021

andy_k said:

Day 2 of latest build.
This is where we pick up-

I already had fitted the diodes, using a process of elimination, 7 of them I could read, and one was different, so I made the decision to solder them in with a little more leg than I would have liked, in case I have to go back in and re do anything.
This build is about to get severely congested, and every joint was done with utmost care-I really do not want to go back on it.
Jumping ahead a bit, the plan was to just get the soldering done, and take some time to actually paint the box properly, but impatience got the better of me, and it had to be mounted in the box to get the pots to line up, so here it is waiting for the back to go on.

I left the leads all a bit long, which will allow me to get it all back out fairly easily, and at this point I didn't think it would be working.
This circuit is dual purpose, and there are deliberate omissions, and a few jumpers.
working from the instructions and photos, there is a mistake.
The BOM for the version I am making is the one shown in the pictures, except the pictures show a ceramic cap in C28.
I did not have this cap, NOT listed in BOM, but clearly in the photo reference.
I attached a rechargeable battery snap, and sure enough-no lights.
Damn I thought, but thought I would check with another battery, and this time-Hey Presto, lights.
This doesn't prove anything yet, and I have had enough by now, thinking it all has to come out anyway to fit the final cap, and to give the box a coat of paint,
I made some space, and plugged in, with all knobs at zero, and no battery attached. No signal, so I pushed down on the ICs, to check they were all in place, and got a clean bypassed sound.
I screwed the back on with 2 screws robbed from another build (I am missing the 4 correct threaded screws remember )
and started to bring up the vol and gain, all seems to be good.
Checked the B,M,T, all good, and the boost and channel switch are working as expected.
Maybe the missing cap is just there as something to trip people up, or it has been taken out of the final kit?
I just have to get some knobs ordered, and I may keep it looking industrial, I'll make my mind up when I find out if I need to have that cap in there.

Not really ready to have a long blast through it today, but it is easily the best amp in a box pedal I have heard to date, and the built in boost is handy, I wish it was a separate boost which could be used on its own, but I guess you can't have everything AND keep things simple.
Not really a 'Hard' pedal, but definitely a bit of a leap of faith for me.
I'll follow up with a finished pic, when it gets finished.
TTFN

great work, are they In1418 ?
I haven't attempted anything of this size yet, tbh I thought the delay I built felt big, I do have a few challenging ones to build at the moment though.

So what is this one ?

How many have you built so far ?

I am into my 15th now, although I think I did 3 last week so I am getting quicker and hopefully a bit better

andy_k · March 2021

Cookiemonster said:
great work, are they In1418 ?
I haven't attempted anything of this size yet, tbh I thought the delay I built felt big, I do have a few challenging ones to build at the moment though.

So what is this one ?

How many have you built so far ?

I am into my 15th now, although I think I did 3 last week so I am getting quicker and hopefully a bit better

Thanks, in fact 7 of them are 1n4148, and the other one is listed in the BOM later (in an appendix section for one of the options ) as a 9vZener, but I could not make out what it actually said on it, so I took a leap of faith.
Fuzzdog got back to me re-the C28 cap, and advises to follow BOM and not photos, which could be made a little clearer to be honest. His instructions are generally very clear, but I do make a point of highlighting certain sections, which are easy to miss.
His kits are excellent really, and pat of the fun is making sure everything is present and correct before starting a project.
When you have about 100 components in a couple of bags, unmarked, that is a bit of an exercise in itself, so I couldn't help getting them into the circuit board to make it less of a chore. It took me about 8 hours, in 2 sittings, with triple checking everything, and being methodical.
I have only done a few real builds, started off with a couple of Noisy Crickets and couldn't believe how good they sounded for such a simple circuit, really good into a 4x12.
I then picked up a Musikding kit, from one of us, and that was a different experience, all parts clearly labelled, so that was a pleasure.
Then I tackled a Fuzzdog Blue Fool, which was another seat of the pants experience, and I managed to get the LED the wrong way-it is so easy to make obvious mistakes sometimes, so all instructions have to be read a few times.
I am a bit of a novice really, and some of this stuff may be obvious to more experienced guys, but things like long legs on caps going to square pads, ie-polarity, and then other things like LEDS being opposite, can catch you out if you aren't paying attention.
As the part count goes up, obviously the chances of finding a bad joint go up, so it pays to be patient, and not rush things.
To be fair to Fuzzdog, he has responded well to my queries, and he does clearly state that this was technically a 'hard' build, for the reasons I stated above.
I should have been a bit clearer- it is a 'Wrecktifier', which is his take on a Wampler 'Triple Wreck', and I hadn't even made that connection when I decided to build it, I just fancied something with a boost section, and it is just a shame that the boost isn't independent.
A lot of drive / fuzz pedals are very similar, and I liked the idea of doing something a bit different, like this and the Blue Fool.
Over time, I have picked up a few of the Fuzzdog kits already built, and can highly recommend all of them, the Klone is something special, and the buffer at the front of my chain was a revelation. I would also recommend the Angry Andy, which sounds amazing for a very small parts count, I guess that is because it is an evolution of a good choice of parts that does the job well, still a very flexible pedal for a tiny number of components, and it beat a Guvner for the Marshall sound I wanted.
I am not at the stage where I can feel comfortable trouble shooting, and I have relied on my patience, and attention to detail to make sure it will work when it is powered up, you definitely get quicker and neater as you go, but be careful not to rush things.
I liked the way I finished off my last few builds, with painted and polished boxes, but think I will be leaving this one as it is when I get the knobs on, it would be a good choice for a live pedal if I could get a battery in, as the boost is genuinely only useful as a solo boost in a live situation, and I have it stuck on my overdrive board for recording purposes, it could easily be a 5150 clone as well, without the noisegate.
cheers.

starwarsnosebleed · March 2021

Dont think its been mentioned on here yet, but i use an free app for reading resistor codes called ‘resistor colors’ and its been a godsend.

Ive done nearly 20 kit builds over the last few years, and they get easier to build and troubleshoot every time.

Sometimes if they dont work first time, i check all inputs/outputs are wired correctly, re-melt every bit of solder, and check nothings shorting out on the base.

If you’ve got all components in the correct place and orientation you cant go far wrong after that.

Cookiemonster · March 2021

starwarsnosebleed said:

Dont think its been mentioned on here yet, but i use an free app for reading resistor codes called ‘resistor colors’ and its been a godsend.

Ive done nearly 20 kit builds over the last few years, and they get easier to build and troubleshoot every time.

Sometimes if they dont work first time, i check all inputs/outputs are wired correctly, re-melt every bit of solder, and check nothings shorting out on the base.
If you’ve got all components in the correct place and orientation you cant go far wrong after that.

I just use a DMM for resistors. They are not expensive and make life easy
I also have a cheap tester for HFE for the transistors and It works on caps as well.

Best thing though is a test rig, makes like easy and the Jed's peds one has a probe switch as well.

andy_k · March 2021

Aaaaand breathe, all done, and 'All Lit up again', remember that one?

All these pedals have been seen before, except the new one at the bottom, Fuzzdog Wrecktifier, now fitted with nice new knobs, and a new set of screws, that was a bit weird.
Original screws would not fit, seemed to be a different thread so I used 2 from another Fuzzdog kit.
New set arrived and at first looked like they were wrong-ie, wouldn't fit in old pedal, so therefore wouldn't fit in new pedal.
You don't want to risk cross threading anything, so if it don't fit, don't force it.
A little bit of wiggling got 2 of them to replace the 2 in my old pedal, and the other 2 went straight in the new one, would have been very easy to get them crossed though-I can only put it down to it being a virgin pedal??
All powered by the rats nest in the middle, via 2 x 3 way daisy chains and 2 x 9v rechargeables, I'm willing to put up with that to avoid having something else plugged into a socket or extension.
The KFK is there unpowered to act as a splitter for recording a DI, as explained in another thread.
I have checked the signals recorded so far, meaning DI vs clean signal through 6 pedals, and am pleased to discover there is no loss of all important TONE.
Chain is, GTR >KFK> A + B,,,,
A= DI > interface,
B=Klone > Angry Andy > Der Ray > Wrecktifier > Blue Fool > Ghost echo > amp or interface.
And they are very rarely ever on all at the same time, but it does sound good when they are.
Klone is buffered so I guess that helps a lot, and the Wrecktifier squeals if there isn't a buffer present before it.
It all just hangs on a cabinet handle ready to go, plugged into a little Vox soundbox mini, and looks quite artistic, if I do say so myself. ( my idea of decor, would not appeal to many )

stickyfiddle · March 2021

I found pens! At the very least the KOT is getting labels and a crown...

UnclePsychosis · April 2021

After a bit of panic caused by confusing ring and tip this is finished - Red Llama clone. Such a cool circuit.

Cookiemonster · April 2021

UnclePsychosis said:

After a bit of panic caused by confusing ring and tip this is finished - Red Llama clone. Such a cool circuit.

I built one from the Otalgia circuit.

Thought it was ok, I don't think I am hugely keen in it, there is fun in modding through a few tweaks really changes the sound.

The Mythos pedal, chupacabra or whatever it's called is a straight Tubesound/Red Llama with one resistor change, so I played around with mine quite a lot.

UnclePsychosis · April 2021

I really like it. I had a Way Huge one that I loved but which I stupidly sold, not sure if the circuit is any different but the fuzzdog one sounds better than I remember.

Cookiemonster · April 2021

I think it will be the same, it's quite a simple circuit.
But if you build another have a play with the components, mine is lower gain and more Tweedy now

If you look on ebay Otalgia sells boards for 1.99 I have built a few, fun and easy builds, I both the pack of 10 to practice soldering, and they have all worked and sounded good.

The DOD 250 is great, Hyperion I thought was ok but not for me, fuzz face sounded fantastic and I added a pot for the bias

tanihhiavlt · April 2021

This is my project to get a MIDI controller for my Timefactor that can be slaved to my Drybell Vibe Machine's expression pedal too. (only controls are bank-up, bank down and expression toggle - high or low)

I know it's not much, but here's the code in case you're wondering if you can do this kinda thing (the answer is yes you can it's a doddle and a nano costs less than a fiver).
https://github.com/fr4nkus/arduino-midi-controller

Noise · April 2021

Have to thank everyone that's posted in this thread. I've not actually built anything yet, but this thread is what got me started looking at kits and start learning bits and pieces. Have a couple of old enclosures to repurpose so have spent the last few days looking at two knob stuff. Think I'm going to go with an Axis Fuzz and a Dod 250 to start off with. Any tips for securing the PCB when you're using wired pots, or is just some foam in there usually enough?

Cookiemonster · April 2021

Jeds Peds are good for kits

The DOD 250 I got from Otalgia was a nice build and if you have an enclosure, you can pick up the parts from bitsbox cheap.

Most have board mounted pots, but you can always wire them, just make sure you buy the right pots.

You can secure them with cut offs you can get on bitsbox or foam will be fine

stickyfiddle · April 2021

I liked the Red Llama from the clone I had, but always thought I'd like a tone control. I see WH do a 25th anniversary version with a high cut knob - that could be right up my street (even if not in the spirit of the thread!)

Cookiemonster · April 2021

You can modify the llama a bit to suit the tone. But yeah a tone stack would be good

earwighoney · April 2021

Cookiemonster said:

The DOD 250 I got from Otalgia was a nice build and if you have an enclosure, you can pick up the parts from bitsbox cheap.

I have a fully made 250 from him, and it's one of my most used pedals.

IMO, the 250 goes under the radar as a low gain overdrive pedal.

paulcaye · April 2021

tanihhiavlt said:

This is my project to get a MIDI controller for my Timefactor that can be slaved to my Drybell Vibe Machine's expression pedal too. (only controls are bank-up, bank down and expression toggle - high or low)

I know it's not much, but here's the code in case you're wondering if you can do this kinda thing (the answer is yes you can it's a doddle and a nano costs less than a fiver).
https://github.com/fr4nkus/arduino-midi-controller

Looks like a great project.

I am in the middle of doing a midi controlled fuzz, when I say in the middle of, I mean I have all the bits just not built it yet.

Cookiemonster · April 2021

paulcaye said:

tanihhiavlt said:

This is my project to get a MIDI controller for my Timefactor that can be slaved to my Drybell Vibe Machine's expression pedal too. (only controls are bank-up, bank down and expression toggle - high or low)

I know it's not much, but here's the code in case you're wondering if you can do this kinda thing (the answer is yes you can it's a doddle and a nano costs less than a fiver).
https://github.com/fr4nkus/arduino-midi-controller

Looks like a great project.

I am in the middle of doing a midi controlled fuzz, when I say in the middle of, I mean I have all the bits just not built it yet.

I can just about build a fuzz the idea of midi isn't even in the radar. But sounds amazing. Midi fuzz factory !!!!!

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