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from this I will see about designing a suitable engraving for the plate - and come up with some custom inlays
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The neck lams do have some darker sections so tinting may even it all out
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As always inspiring work
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It will need thicknessing down to 1.5-2mm once the inlay glue dries
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theres a really early solid mahogany one with a carved top and a thin abalone inlay down the centre seam ( presumably to conceal a glue line or fault or something) - and it looks superb
The DC junior influence is clear and its no bad thing at all.
Neck lams are also glued, and levelled off on the front faces
I've levelled off the heel section on the back too, using a small router thicknesses
And a piece of idigbo is glued on there to make up the heel
I've also glued some ears on the headstock and radiused the fretboard ready for lasering
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I also marked out and routed the board with the laser. Inaly routes are 1.8mm deep. I still haven't decided what material to inlay. I was going to use harvite for a clay inlay look, but wasn't happy with the way the laser was cutting it.
Weight of all the wooden bits so far
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I've just used it to level the front and rear headplates down to 1.2mm each.
I've also:
*trimmed the board, still need to plane the edges.
*trimmed the neck to shape.
*routed the neck angle onto the heel
*cut the neck pocket
*routed for a humbucker and control cavity
That brings the current weight down to.....
I think I need to add another route under the guard so I can take the pickup wire well away from the bridge post... it's looking like it will get a bit close if I go straight to the control cavity
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I do know CO2 lasers can be problematic with peal as the light refracts inside the pearl and can turn it to dust - make it hard to get clean lines. any success with pearl tends to be with the wafer thin stuff. The same seems to be true from my tests with the diode laser
The engraving is a little fuzzy at the edges, but worked reasonably well - i added filler so you could see it
I could not get it to cut through. I tried 20 or 30 passes, it gets quite far then wont go further. Also the edges start to deteriorate more
This can be a problem with the lasers on some materials. They cut so far, then dust orscorched buildup reduces their effectiveness and they don't cut any further no matter how many passes you do.
It might be good for scoring the pearl ready for hand cutting the final shape - but this pearl is too white for this guitar anyway! Note the more shiny peice of pearl blew out on the edges a lot more
I went back to the harvite I tried yesterday - this is a "clay" type material used in old poker chips. It is basically crushed stone and resin
It does burn a bit and had the same problem as the pearl in that it goes so far, then no further
but this is a crumbly material, so from there I could snap the inlays out of the chip - the rough edge on one side doesn't matter as the good side fits right it
they should look good once tidied up - will let you know once they glue dries and i can level them off
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It's 7.2k alnico 5 with offset coils. The screw coil has 10% more winds than the slug. I'm hoping this keeps it spanky
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