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Comments
I never knew the GE103B is 12 inch radius and the GE104B is 16 inch, you learn something knew every day.
Now it gets more confusing between these 2 model numbers, one saying 104 is 12 inch and another 16 inch, I hope someone can clear this up because I'm not sure I'll be ordering anymore Gotoh bridges.
(formerly customkits)
(formerly customkits)
You might put up with a 12 on a 7.25 but get that set up right and you'll feel the difference.
(formerly customkits)
2 things to consider
The string radius sits higher than the fretboard plane. At the nut end the strings are about 2mm away from the board. Once you get to the bridge its 5mm+ higher than the fretboard plane
Thicker strings need higher action, which flattens the string radius at the bridge even more.
Instagram
If the bridge and fingerboard radius match, I always find the G and D action is too high and the A and low E too low.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
It just plays and feels much better now so I wouldn't want the mismatch, everyone is different but that mismatch isn't something I'd purposely make.
(formerly customkits)
The strings are further away from the imaginary center of the circle than the surface of the fretboard - the radius or that outer circle is bigger.
A 12 1/4" saddle radius would be the ideal match for 12" fretboard radius, if action was the same on each string, but it isn't.
(The extra 1/4" allows for fret and action height - frets add 1.5-2mm to the radius, action adds 3-4mm at the bridge end assuming a 1.5-2mm action at the 12th fret)
I worked this out once taking into account the higher action on low strings and think I ended up at 12 3/4" as being a good match for a 12" radius fretboard.
IIRC correctly PRS bridges come with an 11" radius as they feel it is the best fit for their 10" radius fretboards.
Obviously player preference comes into it too, and should not be overlooked when discussing theoretical ideals.
With an aftermarket TOM it makes sense to start with a flatter radius, then file them slightly to suit the guitar and player. It's only a swipe or two of a file
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Your prs description confirms it, I had to file quite a bit into the saddle on the gotoh bridge on the bass side which is a pain when I could've just got a different radius bridge to start with, I won't be using those bridges again.
(formerly customkits)
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https://www.pressreader.com/uk/guitarist/20230106/282170770215310