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You might want to check the neck relief. If you hold a string down at the first fret and at the last fret, there should be a very small gap between the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the string - probably about 0.2 to 0.3mm - feeler gauges might help you here.
If there is a bigger gap then this then you could help the situation by tightening the truss rod. If there is no gap at all then the truss rod will need loosening off. Make sure you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod.
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You can have the thin strings quite a bit lower even for good tone on a Dreadnought, but you want a fair bit of room for the thick ones.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
What about nut height... That shouldn't matter, right? It should be the same for any guitar?
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Nut height should be more or less the same as on any guitar, although I would probably not try to get it quite to the limit of lowest possible height that I would with an electric.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
So bigger guitars have inherently higher action. So if you want a bassier guitar either get a bigger bodied one (higher action) or one that has scallopped braces or top (not sure if this has same effect re action?).
Re nut height... So it is acceptable to lower that so an F is easy enough to barre. Basically I'm shooting for same nut slot depths on a dreadnought as on an OM..?
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Go lower than 2mm on a Martin dread and you can take away all the fire.
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mean it!"
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Tbh (and I think was joking?) I've got five really good and different Larrivee's for less than the price of one of these high end ones, and I think the gains are marginal past a certain point (I know, I've tried a bazillion of them). Still.. it's got a bit crazy of late.
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Suit you.
I think I've got problems.
Going to log into TrueFire 24/7 and forget about GAS
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The neck relief gap should be very small, just barely detectable by eye, so chances are that you could tweak the truss rod a little to adjust it and that alone will be all you need to do to get that slightly-too-high action down to more like 2.6 or 2.7mm, which should still sound fine and make it noticeably nicer to play.
When you adjust the rod, just do a little bit at a time. An eighth to a quarter of a turn is plenty. Then give it time to settle. Do a bit more then next day if needed. Keep track of how much you turn it so that, if you want to, you can return it to the original position.
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Take the bluegrass player. He has to compete with banjos, so his action is likely to be set a bit higher.
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But never say never. Meantime, it's an Ome North Star. Ome is a small manufacturer in Boulder, Colorado.