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As a long term tactic, you should have a truss rod tool for each of your guitars, because adjustments will be necessary, and driving for hours to make an adjustment is a bit like driving 3 hours to get someone to change the wiper blades on your car
As far as I understand, manufacturers expect guitarists to make normal adjustments to truss rods, hence making them user-accessible. I adjust the truss rod on almost every new guitar I buy, once I have let it settle down in my house for a few days (unless it's way out).
Larrivee included a truss rod tool with every guitar I bought, as do many other manufacturers.
As a short term thing: it seems most likely that the guitar was stored somewhere dry before you bought it. The first thing the shop would do is try tightening the truss rod, that's its function. Watch youtube videos of people examining neck relief, look down the neck from the headstock, compare it with your other guitars, is it like other examples? Tighten it 1/8 of a turn, then look again.
btw have you changed the strings for a higher gauge? Just checking
The best first step with an issue like this is to do research and ask for advice, which is what you have done. Happily nowadays you can watch youtube videos on stuff to reduce risk of misunderstandings and errors
Personally I've recently decided that two 1 hour journeys to drop off and collect a guitar just to get the nut slots tweaked to stop sticking is a waste of time and money, and I bought a set of nut slot files. I think anyone with a few guitars should buy a set, if they are DIY-minded. However, that's a world away from truss rod adjustment, any guitarist should be able to understand and use the tools to adjust neck relief, and the action on an electric.
As our expert ICBM says, adjusting the saddle on an acoustic is a couple of levels up from tweaking the truss rod. Basically because it's not as reversible. It's still pretty simple though, but easier to get wrong.
If you're not used to assessing the gap with the relief test by eye, try this:
Put the guitar flat on your lap, fret first string (bottom E) with left little finger
fret first fret after the body join with right little finger
tap around halfway in between with either thumb
do this on all your guitars, get a feel for what is normal (which is that it makes a tapping noise, but with very little movement)
then try it on this new guitar, if it's a lot further down before the thumb tap reaches the fret, then the relief is too high. As I said, you can look down the neck and see this too, compare it with your functioning guitars
I'd recommend tweaking the truss rod. Also getting a hygrometer to monitor humidity in your guitar room
The OP has a practically brand new Martin which, over the past three weeks, has developed a significant action problem. He wonders if he should try to adjust the truss rod himself as he considers a 2 1/2 hour round trip back to the shop to be a lot of trouble. An "expert" on here says an emphatic yes, so now we have a discussion about the means and the merits of adjusting truss rods rather than wondering what might actually be causing the problem.
I have been playing acoustic guitar for nearly sixty years and I could count on the fingers of one hand the number of times I have had to adjust a truss rod, if I bring a guitar to a country with a significantly different climate, for example. As a general rule a well set up guitar should not require regular truss rod adjustments unless the environment is altered dramatically.
The OP seems to have lost interest in this discussion already, but if he is still around, I would strongly recommend returning the guitar to the shop and having an expert look at it and hopefully diagnose the problem.
As I have said before, this is fine if you have a cheap second hand guitar and want to make it more playable, but the OP is talking about a Martin 0018 less than three months old, bought new from a shop!
All down to the individual, but I wouldn't go on a 3 or 4 hour round trip to get basic adjustments done
I think it's safe to say that most of us know all of this already, but that's not really the point. Every time I have bought a brand new guitar, the shop has invited me to come back after six months for a free setup. If a problem has developed in the first few months of ownership, it is the responsibility of the shop to put it right whether it is a simple adjustment or a full replacement because the instrument has a serious fault.
I would fully expect to adjust the truss rod on a 3 month old acoustic. I would expect to do it less often as the guitar ages and settles in
you never used to need to worry about seasonal changes in most of the UK, but it does seem that the swings are getting more noticeable. In other parts of the world its not uncommon to need a summer and winter saddle. Those touring with classical string instruments often carry bridges of different heights for the same reason
Its perfectly safe to adjust a truss rod as long as you always use the correct tool, and never force. I always loosen before tightening just to ensure the rod isn't seized. You can also loosen string tension and make tiny adjustments at a time, but these are belt and braces precautions that most who are familiar with a truss rod wont need to bother with.
the most common damage you see is a worn adjustment nut from someone not following the above advice
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The confidence to assess and adjust a guitar comes from experience, if you spend your whole life doing it then there is very little mystery, if you have only possessed one guitar and have sold your soul to get it then it’s only reasonable to be very cautious, seek advice and get help when you feel the need to have something done. Once having been mentored then crack on and do it yourself or not.
Adjusting a truss Rod is nothing to be scared of, however due to the stories and myths that abound it can seem this way. These fears can only be allayed by actually doing it and getting the experience. I would suggest that there are as many on here who spend their time tinkering with their guitars as there are those who daren’t. And if you ask these people who do, I expect they will say they were bricking it first time they took an Allen key to a truss Rod .
Finally quick word on Martin Guitar lifetime warranty. I actually know someone who had a neck reset done under their warranty after 25/30 years of owning one in the UK. Original receipt proving sole ownership was provided at the time and Martin weren’t happy but did end up paying!
To update it the situation, being under warranty I decided to take it back to the shop (I happened to be headed that way on another matter so it made sense). I left it with them for a couple of hours and came back but I wasn't at all happy that after the adjustment they made that the action was as good as it was before - the neck still didn't look right to me. Something else they actually mentioned was that the fingerboard seemed to had swollen slightly so it was a little bit proud of the neck on both sides.
They said they would send the guitar back to Martin and have it sorted out - put in a drying room. It's still with Martin at the moment. Martin have apparently reported back the guitar has - I think it was -11% humidity. I have no idea what a normal % would be so I don't know if that's really bad or what.
I didn't think I had a humid house and I've certainly never had another guitar suffering with a similar problem in 15 years here.
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I hope it works out for you in the end.