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A quick/cheap/safe de-rusting way is get a plastic tub, put hot water in it. Throw in a handful of citric acid (approx tenner kilo delivered). Lob the steel/iron parts in (not sure about brass but safer not to). Put a lid on, scrap wood, anything - not to seal it, but keeps it hot for ages.
After an hour or two scrub the parts. Rust should be either gone or converted to a soft grey sludge that wipes away easily.
Dry bits fast, flash rust might form otherwise but it's super light dust and wipes away.
Citrics very safe, its in food and bath bombs, cleaning agents etc etc.
I never like to see a plane put down on it's blade though
Sounds like an easier way than going at it with some 120 grit @Corvus
I'll certainly not rest it on the blade once sharpened
- my first woodwork teacher c.1975
I hadn’t realised that ‘modern’ Stanley design went back that far - without really thinking about it I assumed it was post-WWII. I’ll have to get mine out and check the dates, I’ve got one that size and a longer one, can’t remember the model numbers.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Here's the chart I used to date it. The patent numbers on this were behind the frog but I think each 'type' is different.
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fG1J2VWe18pV
According to him any professionals he has known believe laying it on the side invites knocking the blade out of centre and keeping the sharp bit out of the way is much better - a wooden work bench isn't going to dull the blade.
The important part is probably having a wooden workbench that you are not precious about!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Bought a no.3, went to look it up. Not that it matters but just nice to know. Couldn't quite place it to a period. On more reading up it seems dating Made in England Stanleys is pretty impossible ... the sites & charts cover USA planes, but ours aren't the same at all.
The only solid things seems to be that Stanley England started in the mid 30s. Anything with a wooden handle/tote is pre-67. Which is still shakey as they could've been swapped for later plastic. Nothing else really identifies them to a year or even a period.
Anyway, as you were, it's looking very tidy there
@Corvus It's funny you couldn't place your no.3, mine was pretty clear but I dont know how accurate the chart is. Here's the one I used below. Mine has 2 patent numbers and has the enlarged and arched frog rib which puts it as a type 10. It also has '10' stamped into the sole where the back handle sits -
Stanley Bailey https://imgur.com/a/rGK1VBP
Top notch work on the plane restoration by the way, makes me a little ashamed of the state of some of my Stanleys!
Not a great photo, but the only one to hand!
https://i.imgur.com/lBc9NHE.jpg
https://smallworkshop.co.uk/2018/05/09/ward-payne-aristocrat-chisels/
Thanks @strat84 they work well (some upgraded Hock irons), though look used and a bit battered. Not that that's a bad thing!
Couple here of how it did look