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Its getting well towards an acceptable finish now.
I think I will repeat that process tomorrow, them more forward with rubbing some osmo in for a little extra hardness.
It's a strong colour, but you can also see wood grain when you get close. Not that Poplar has much grain to speak of.
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In a good way I mean - almost like an aged piece of painted furniture.
I think its only the second or third one piece neck I have made in the last 20 years, but I rather enjoyed it. The afromosia carved really nicely
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I used your wet sanding method for a clear finish on my Strat to good effect, but for a Tele project I'm about to start I think I want some colour.
The milk paint mixed with the oil well, but obviously started to gum up in the container. Milk paint only lasts a couple of hours, so this was expected The pigments certainly coloured the oil quite strongly, but the solids in the milk paint all sunk and went hard.
So I think buying milk paint just to colour oil would be the long way round and not very successful. Better to build up a few coats of oil before wetsanding, just to ensure you don't sand through
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@WezV do you mean milk paint on the untreated body, then a couple of coats of oil and then wet sanding, wax and buffing? I could manage that I think.
That's essentially what i have ended up with here, and its worked. It will also work that way by staining the wood. Just tinting the oil doesn't work as well, you need a good solid base colour first.
Whichever way you get colour on, you have to be careful wet sanding as its easy to alter the consistency of the colour or sand through completely, but very hard to add colour back on
If using an oil like osmo its easy to build up a thicker harder layer of oil on top of your colour coat. Some people use tru-oil this was too, but osmo does work better if intending on building up a solid coat
I don't think I will wet sand this one with oil, but do now have enough osmo on it to buff with fine wirewool and briwax and get to a similar end result
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different light
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I'm going to sand most of it back, and re-do the milk paint. I might try spraying it
once i have a good colour coat again I think i should just be able to buff it out with Briwax and wire wool
Test on scrap and all that.... I rarely actually do it
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it didn't respond well to spraying as it was hard to get a mix of paint that worked through the gun without needing it to be too wet.
But that revealed an interesting effect from using milk paint too wet. It ended up looking like a Tyler Shmear in old copper covered in verdigris.
I'm running out of the paint now. Part of me is tempted to spray some ocean turquoise nitro and move on from the milk paint, but I'm going to have a play first.
I do like the milk paint. it goes on really easily, dries hard and sands really well the next day. But it is hard to get a consistent coat on a guitar. Brushing seemed a bitstreaky. Foam roller left it quite textured. It would work great as a worn finish when nitro is not an option. Needs more practice for a solid consistent coat
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I guess that aligns well with it's most common use - ie faux-aged furniture with deliberate wear.
I wish I could recommend mtn water based spray to you from my thread, but it's still a touch soft - I hope because I sprayed too much too often, but I feel like it it just a bit softer than nitro in general. The clear coat is promising mind...
For what it's worth, the colour you chose was great. Apparently a lot of people use a wipe on finish in matte - I linked it earlier in the thread - but obviously doesn't help you with an oil finish or sprayed finish...
I'm just having fun with this now, if the final result doesn't suit the guitar I will strip and spray nitro
I've just done another light coat and spritzed it all with a mist of water to make it run. This is totally not what I was originally after when i chose this paint, and not everyone will like it, but i like it enough so see where i can take it
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I've just been scraping out the cavities so all the wooden parts fit again. Its had big drips scraped flat, then a good rub down with fine wire wool and briwax. think i need to do that once more and its done
My back up option also arrived, but will be saved for something else i think
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Feedback thread: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/3575378
How well it works remains to be seen, but it should still be adjustable enough to get a good balance from the pickups
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I found a spare P-90, but its a slight mismatch on pole spacing. I think i'm going to open up the top of the pickup cover so its a slot rather than holes. that gives me more options for later upgrades, and I think will look pretty cool
Also gonna need top ferrules on the tailpiece as the strings want to cut straight through the wood
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I've found a water based milk paint supplier that has some gorgeous colours, and yours has turned out really well. Obviously don't want to spend loads of cash, but a 50g powder pack is about a fiver and would probably make enough for a guitar... Maybe...
For this final finish I obviously had some runs to deal with. I just scraped them level before rubbing the whole lot back with fine wire wool
I think 50g would be a stretch, but I have been quite wasteful in my approach and nearly used a full 170g bag, which makes a pint of paint.
I think I could have achieved this finish in 2 coats now I know how it works
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I think I'll try it. Happy with the sprays, but actually a brushed finish is more easy for me in my space. I'll test and see how it compares.
I will try it with my water based top coat, see if it clouds up or not. Hopefully not. If so, I may try some of the more common oil finishes, like hemp oil or wax.
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Excellent. Appreciate your help!
Remember I said the afromosia was very oily and tape wouldn't stick to it... well glue doesn't want to either
I only have one glue join on this, for the truss rod. I glued it up pretty much straight after routing and cleaning the slot with some thinners to remove as much oil as possible. I was using titebond original, but the above process normally helps it work well on oily woods
This morning, the stripe has raised itself
The neck is still nicely straight and playing great, but the rod has pushed this out overnight. This needs to come out and be reglued with something a bit stronger.
Thankfully I don't expect to struggle when it comes to remove it and cleaning up the slot
Also that pic shows some sanding scratches I missed on the transition.
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The dust from the afromosia actually feels waxy.
This skunk stripe was a tight friction fit, so no issues there.
With other oily woods a wipe with naphtha or thinners is enough to dry the wood off for long enough to glue it. Then the oiliness slowly returns, or can be added back
Think I might need to bathe this in thinners first. Will probably reglue with epoxy as extra insurance.
The guitar is playing great for now, so I will give it a few weeks to see how everything else settles in, than tackle a whole snag list in one go. Really happy with the ergonomics of it, and it plays great. It's been useful to get my head around this design before I make the hollowbody set neck version.
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