Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Archtop & Solidbody. Languedoc inspired - Making & Modding Discussions on The Fretboard
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Archtop & Solidbody. Languedoc inspired

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    The afromosia is odd to work with.   Routes great, but double side tape doesn't stick to it at all.  We'll, you think it's stuck, then it suddenly releases itself on a whim.   That almost caused some router slips!!! 


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  • Loving the scratchplate. 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited December 2021
    Pickups for the hollowbody arrived.   Placed on the soldibody here to give an idea how it will look



    The neck is a Charlie Christian, bridge is a PA Bigbsy style, both in matching nickel dogear bezels.   Marc at mojo pickups really rose to the challenge here, I think they look awesome!!
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8108
    WezV said:
    The afromosia is odd to work with.   Routes great, but double side tape doesn't stick to it at all.  We'll, you think it's stuck, then it suddenly releases itself on a whim.   That almost caused some router slips!!! 
    Good to know. I was thinking of using that afromosia neck blank you gave me for the 1Q22 project. Maybe I’ll keep things simple, and use maple instead.
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1391
    Hi Wez, pickups look great, just one thing, Marc had said Charlie Christian bridge and Bigsby neck, because of the relative outputs.  It will be interesting to see how the solid and hollow work out.  Are you putting P-90's in both positions on the solid body?
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    Yes, although I haven't decided what yet.  I may go for a blade option on that too
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    Routed for the plate and tailpiece  also done control cavity and drilled for slightly recessed knobs







    Also routed some ledges in the top  and smoothed them out to guvve a subtle radius


    The back is marked up for the same, just need to make a wooden cavity cover first so it can all be radiused at the same time.


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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1391
    That's some precision routing.   I hadn't realized that you were going to have the afromosia inset into the body.  It will look very interesting as you get things more assembled.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited January 2022
    It's not CNC precise, but I'm happy with how it went.  Can't have it too precise as the whole plate needs to be able to be raised and tilted as needed.


    It will also have a recessed string block and cavity cover round back. Along with recessed wooden knobs on the front.

    With a block colour for the body  it should make the afromosia really pop.   Likely plain white or plain black I think, I might try a milk paint finish too.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited January 2022
    I turned a couple of Afromosia knobs on the drill press

    I used a basic holesaw like this



      I started with the drill bit in the holesaw and went half way through, then removed the drill bit to cut all the way through.  I left them tall at first, then cut down to size after double checking the depth of the center hole to make sure I didn't drill all the way through.

    once that was done I drilled them out for some knob inserts, and a recess for the washer and nut (slightly off center, not on purpose) mounted them on the wrong end of a drill, put it back in the drill press upside down.  Then i could turn them to shape with a file and various grits of sandpaper and finally a bit of boiled linseed oil

    simple, but i think they will suit the guitar.  They feel great so I'm really hopeful the neck will be similar 





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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited January 2022
    started carving the guard. It's not quite flowing as smooth as I want yet, but it gives an idea where I am heading with this



    The ridge is still as high as the pickups, so i will probably take a few mm off the top of it and recarve the curve from there.  worst case if i don't like it is i flatten off the whole section


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited January 2022
    Lots done on body and neck



    Back of the body has had an afromosia plate made, then both body and plate have been subtlely radiused



    Headstock has been cut to a shape that's mostly ibanez in size and shape, with a different end.

     Board has been radiused and nut slot cut





    Body is just about ready for finishing.  Think I'm going to try some milk paint for it, but will see how the test go.
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  • Really interested in the milk paint! I'm going to do some tests with water based sprays, and milk paint is my next choice if that doesn't work out for me.

    Like the headstock, such a tricky thing to get right but that looks really smart. 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    Well I have some dark turquoise coming.

    When I first saw people using it, it was all for shabby chic easy relic style stuff.   But with people like millimetric and schorr guitars getting good solid colous on modern guitar styles I thought it could be worth a look for something like this.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    the body is now complete and ready for finishing

    Neck has been inlaid with some pearl dots.  Just need to glue a truss rod fillet in place before carving and fretting

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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1391
    Will you put a maple/sycamore fillet in it for contrast?
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    Yeah  I think it will be maple, or possible go the other way with ebony
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    So onto milk paint.  For this I am trying Old Fashioned milk paint in a rather fetching shade of teal.

    https://oldfashionedmilkpaint.co.uk/collections/old-fashioned-milkpaint/products/providence

    the instructions say to mix the powder 1:1 with water.   This is what I did for the first coat, and it was a little thick.  It also starts to gel up pretty quickly if you don't stir regularly.

    This is one coat applied with a crappy brush.  Its applied to raw wood


    not a bad start for one coat on raw wood

    It sands well and burnishes to a nice eggshell at 240g.   feels pretty sturdy.  Clean up is really easy with water

    I'm going to build a few thinner coats and see what we end up with.   I'm going to try a mini roller for application once i have a good solid base coat laid down.  I might try spraying, not sure yet.

    I'm currently thinking an oil based top coat will be best, mainly because it seems counter intuitive to overspray a traditional water based finish with lacquer.    





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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    2nd coat is still drying, but i think this is going to look pretty awesome if it works


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  • Love that colour!

    Definitely a contender for me as well, if my mtn sprays don't work out. I've read some people use this stuff to top coat it, but can't find any good threads on method:

    https://www.littlefairs.shop/products/littlefairs-extra-strong-varnish?variant=39424105971814&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJSPBhAoEiwAeO_fP3Ee7DuiHk1B9TpqbzK7voIO64JuMDwsFygmQMg_9g5fhN9dvS8ibBoCOfMQAvD_BwE

    Available in matt or gloss.

    I got a gloss "water based varnish" spray, which should be a clear acrylic, but I'm thinking I might go for a matt finish for a change. 
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  • WezV said:
    2nd coat is still drying, but i think this is going to look pretty awesome if it works


    You taking that on Bake Off: Extra Slice?

    Ahem...watching the build with interest ;)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    If I was doing a cake I'd be casting the parts out of chocolate :D 
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  • CFHCFH Frets: 437
    It's kind of like Malinoski meets Languedoc. Love the design and the colour. 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    i've added a couple more coats with a small foam roller



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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    and a couple of hours later that is dry and starting to look a lot more consistent  



    I will level that off tomorrow and see where we are at.  I expect it will need two more coats before I start on top coat
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  • Certainly has a nice colour tone to it. It's a nice matte, too. I can see why this sort of paint is popular, it looks "tactile". 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793

    I'm not sure how matte it will be once done.   With a bit of practice I could probably roll on a nice final coat and leave it that way.

    More likely it will need some levelling, which burnishes it up to an eggshell like sheen.  Adding oil will probably push it towards semi gloss, and obviously darken it too

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited January 2022
    I put a coat of osmo polyx on.   It added a nice sheen, but didn't even out the colour as much as I hoped for... guess I need more practice getting the milk paint on first 



    Anyway  the coat of oil prevents adding more, so I'm currently experimenting with mixing milk paint powder with  boiled linseed oil.

    That seems to be getting more consistent after 1 coat





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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8108
    Will the paint powder mix with Osmo?
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    I went with the boiled linseed as its a lot thinner and easier to mix than osmo, but it probably would mix.  It mixed really well with the thinner oil... just got to see how it dries

    My hope is to finish off with a few coats of osmo once I have a good consistent colour.



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