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Not saying it’s impossible, but I’ve never seen anything like that on a Martin, and from what I do see, their QC is pretty good.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
However: I'm over 6 feet tall, and none of them has a narrow nut
The Avalon Americana one sounds great, not as lively as normal Avalons and Lowdens, less overtones, so good for getting a more focused sound with a more classical arrangement I find
The Goodall dread with Adirondack sounds amazing, but only after you thrash it with a pick for a few minutes, or put a ToneRite on it for 10 minutes. Basically Adirondack is very stiff, and doesn't respond as well to fingerpicking until you wake it up, straight after which it sounds great. To be honest, it still sounds better with a pick, it's off the scale with a pick.
The Larrive SD60 is a slope shouldered dread (12 fret), and this is the design I'd recommend trying:
nut is 1 and 7/8 inches (47.6mm), so wider than normal OMs etc
It's extremely responsive played in fingerstyle, often reviewed as a "tone cannon"
Do you still have the D35? are you able to try a tonerite on it to see if it makes fingerstyle work?
So I'd say - try a slope-shoulder wide nut, 12-fret dread
I suspect the 12 fret would be less of an issue for right shoulder movement too.
I gigged for 20 years with a Gibson J50. In 1991 I changed to a Taylor 812 which was a life changer at the time. The balanced less bassy sound was a revelation and changed my playing style significantly. I own several dreadnoughts but rarely fingerpick them preferring, these days, 00 or 000-12 or OM size guitars.
(For me string spacing makes a small difference; neck width makes a big difference. The narrow 44mm nut guitars feel marginally easier for the left hand but they are much harder to play accurately than the two with wide necks (48mm and 50mm). That's one of the great things about European guitars: a more playable 46mm nut is pretty much standard.
Thinking about that, it strikes me that the horizontal wrist style (to give it a name) is probably better suited to plectrum work, with the semi-vertical position better for fingerpicking.
(Confession: In all my decades of playing, I have never once thought about wrist position and angle. I just do it.)
never had a prob with the width/thickness of the body
also I’ve a 35 year old fender dreadnought that I had from I was a 9 stone skinny weakling and so I suppose that’s what I learned to use.
ive got a Taylor Grand Audotorium which seemed to be smaller when I tried it than the Epi, but it turns out is same scale length and same nut width but feels completely different
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Have you tried a 12 fret slope-shoulder dread?
please login and reply, you asked us for our opinions, you've not been on here for over 10 days
;-)
All interesting replies - definitely agree with the wider-neck 12 fret dread approach, it's certainly worked for me over the years
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Ive owned most body sizes along the 45+ years and find - especially now with elbow issues - that smaller are more comfortable, comfortable at the body/picking hand
I would concur with them tho, body size makes no discernible "impact/difference" at the neck and nothing to do with body size/shape had any impact on whether you're strumming/fingerpicking/flat picking - neck shape, fretboard width and string spacing are the key factors here surely ?
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
But that doesn't mean that it is so for everyone, and for some of us - even those of us who aren't tall - it makes no difference, and we find dreadnoughts and jumbos just fine, or even *more* comfortable. I also mostly play sitting down. I have a knackered left elbow too! I actually find small guitars a bit awkward, parlour sizes especially.
Neck shape, fingerboard width and string spacing are certainly important factors for me - I don't like any of them to be too big, and for some reason it seems to be more common to find wider necks with smaller bodies. I had a really nice Martin OM-21, which sounded great and was also comfortable, but I couldn't get on with the neck size. I find my Gibson Dove (dreadnought) much easier to play.
We're all different...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
both my elbows are buggered, its the right one that impacted body size "changes" I snapped my biceps tendon off, had to have it re engineered and attached with a metal pin - that severely impacted what was and wasnt comfortable.
My left elbow had a tendon debridement and repair - but hasnt affected me so much, oddly , but I know have dupuytrens on the middle and ring finger of my left hand, which at the moment isnt too bad.......but I know without treatment it will turn to trigger finger
but back on topic...................yeah we're all different - and TBH I just dont like dreads LOL
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
For what it's worth I also find Telecasters more comfortable than Strats to play sitting down! The squarer body edges make it stay put, whereas a Strat tends to try to slide downwards and outwards.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
Some have less friction resistance and the guitar slides away ( sweat pants are pretty awful for this but don't get me started on the Lycra ! )