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this time I was machining the body for @Rich31k ’s model 1. Out of one piece of Obeche it’s made a wonderfully light body.
I put together this little video for your enjoyment
Like the little skirts and the extractor on the machine. That'll help keep your workshop nice and dust-free.
What cutter are you using?
I use cutters from Wealden Tool (https://www.wealdentool.com/)
And I choose the solid tungsten carbide tools and upcut. For the routing of the pockets and borders I use an 8mm STC upcut and then for the contours and 3D carving I use an 8mm ball end STC upcut.
I find Wealden to be really reasonably priced and I've used them for many years now for my router bits!
This is done by hand around the edges with various shaped blocks and also by hand. The faces are then blended with my Mirka Deros.
The boring bits are me drilling the string holes, the electro socket hole and then connecting the cavities.~
Time to get some primer on!
This is an Obeche body as the customer specifically requested a lightweight body, it will be grain filled after this and then the colour coats begin.
Next week I begin to fret the necks, and we are heading for the finish line!
Is that an Alpkit carabiner I spy holding the body up?
So to save decent Maple stock I've been using 18mm plywood, which is a shade under the thickness of 20.5mm I use on my necks so I've accounted for that with my Z depths for each program. The idea is to see if my paths work and if I can get the references right to be able to flip the neck and have it mill perfectly on the back as well as the front!
I put together some clips!
Best thing about doing it in plywood is that because of the layers you can quite easily see if you have a smooth even carve or not - rather like the zebra filter you can use in your CAD software.
Actually, i think mine would probably do that - it'd just take a little bit longer.
From the lines on the back of the neck, looks like that test worked ok?
I run mine at 5000mm/min, I think the machines like the Oozenest workbee run at a max of around 2500.
Yeah the test worked well! oddly when I flip it I do need to adjust the origin by 1.7mm on the X, so I'm going to investigate in my drawings to see what I can do!
Today was supposed to be about getting paint on but DPD let me down with a delivery!
I spent the day sanding up all the bodies so that they are ready to have primer tomorrow,
I did manage to get a coat of paint from the dregs of my old can on the prototype body for the entry level model, that open pore grain effect really is something!
Check out the thread,
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/211463/launching-an-entry-level-version-of-my-guitars#latest
Basically it's lower level pickups, no customisation on the scale or radius, a simpler open pore satin finish and no fancy hard case.
Wanted to make the difference enough that people could justify stepping up to the full fat model, which I think I am achieving
So happy to have this process down, its a great deal quicker than doing them with router templates and as you can see by the end of the video the accuracy is immense!
Few notes, notice the mistake on the headstock before I turn it over to do the back - luckily I was able to get that way when the headstock was thinned down!
Also the way dealt with the issue of not being able to put in the truss rod (as the locating tabs block it) I have managed to circumvent by temporarily attaching it to the neck!
Needs finessing by hand of course but I'm thrilled with the result, certainly quite advanced CNC milling so all my hard work is paying off!
I'm also making my way through painting the bodies!
How long did it take to complete the cutting operations?