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Typical woods:
Rosewood/Spruce is the most common favourite
You need to try a few combinations before eliminating that, it suits almost everyone
I like cedar more than spruce
Size: Auditorium or small, get a cutaway if you like. I get wider nuts, 46mm rather than 44mm, find out what you prefer.
If you call Avalon directly, they can explain the options
I agree with @ToneControl regarding contacting Avalon, and I would also contact other luthier's directly, including Turnstone. It's worth discussing your particular needs, and trying some guitars out before firming up your requirements. If you're playing in a duo, you may also need to consider pick-up options.
Maton 808
BODY LENGTH
479 mm
BODY WIDTH
366 mm
BODY DEPTH
125 mm
TOTAL LENGTH
1009 mm
Neck
12” radius
Nut Width 44.1mm
14th Fret 55mm
Thanks so much! I have contacted Avalon so will wait to hear what they say.
Lowden I’m more familiar with. I definitely lean to a different acoustic sound (British) than American.
here are the maton stats again
Maton 808
BODY LENGTH
479 mm
BODY WIDTH
366 mm
BODY DEPTH
125 mm
TOTAL LENGTH
1009 mm
Neck
12” radius
Nut Width 44.1mm
14th Fret 55mm
For the the sake of trying things out I would go try a Martin 0-18. They are a great benchmark. Lacking in bass obviously but they are so well balanced across bass mid and treble and they are loud.
if if I was custom building I would go Red spruce and Walnut with mahogany neck
For me Cedar just isn’t responsive or loud enough on small guitars.
Again, all just my opinion and completely subjective
Regarding Fylde, they make some great guitars in many sizes and wood combos. Fyldes do have their own distinct sonic identity and are very much a European sound. I'm actually playing one right now as I was reading this. This one is a Custom Anniversary ( based on the Alexander model )in euro spruce and brazilian rosewood, before it I had a 30th anniversary in Sitka spruce/Indian rosewood. They share the same very open, harmonically rich traits, the current one being more full across the range. I've played many Fyldes and across the models they share great build quality and a certain sonic relationship.
I don't know where you are based but you should also talk to Haydn Williams ( HJ Williams guitars ). He's not far up the road from Fylde and builds some of the best bespoke acoustics around, plus he knows a lot about wood choices. I had an auditorium size guitar by Haydn which would have suited your type of styles very well (sadly it got nicked, though it did reappear 9 years later) can't remember what the model name was now. I currently have a lovely dread depth cutaway by him ( An Esk ) with a German top over Honduran rosewood, it is ridiculously responsive and a lot of overtones. The latter would be too big for you but check out his site for the smaller models or give him a call, he's a great guy to deal with.
Hope this helps
All the best with the search
Do you feel the Alexander would suit my needs?
Where are your based? I'm in the south near Brighton. There aren't many Fyldes to try around
The Alexander is a great body size being more compact than an OM, while being 4 1/4 " deep, enough to have plenty of bass without being full dreadnought depth. There are a couple of things worth considering, the basic model is cedar over sapele which will sound warm but a little drier/more immediate than spruce over rosewood and will have less headroom. It would be worth enquiring what the options are as Fylde are great at custom builds based on existing designs. Also check out the Alchemist which is essentially a cutaway version.
The closest production Fylde to a spruce / rosewood version is the Eric Bibb signature model ( he had one of the other 6 original anniversary models that I had previously . The big issue there is that it's quite a price hike as it has a bit more bling as well as the spruce /rosewood spec. The Bibb is also 25 1/2 scale length while the Alexander and the Alchemist are 24 3/4 scale length. Personally I really like the latter on this particular guitar, it down tunes great, but plays really easily.
Euro spruce top
Brazilian rosewood back and sides
Ebony Board / Pearl inlay
Koa binding
5 piece neck figured mahogany and can't remember the other wood.
Multi coloured herringbone
24 3/4 scale length
44mm nut
<a href="https://imgur.com/qiI9U32"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qiI9U32.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/wAe9WTE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wAe9WTE.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/UotQ2OP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UotQ2OP.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/3jgH8tQ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3jgH8tQ.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
secondly, Braz is great, but there are other impressive woods up there for far less money: African Blackwood, Ziricote, Bog oak, etc
Redwood is supposed to be cedar on steroids, and my small-bodied redwood + Ziricote was the loudest acoustic I own last time I checked, alongside a Braz/Adirondack Dread!
Bear in mind you can get louder sounds with a plectrum, but that cedar is as loud when fingerpicking
then a rosewood or walnut for the back.
Some quotes I found said that redwood was "cedar on steroids", which i can understand: it's warmer, more mids, louder
Both the redwood guitars have very powerful mids, more so than any of my other guitars:
I use Elixir phosphor bronze nanoweb strings, and often leave the strings on for a few months, with no huge detriment to my ears
With the redwood tops, the top end is overwhelmed by the mids after 3-4 weeks, I'm currently trying 80/20 bronze on one of them.
Having said this, both my redwood tops have ziricote back and sides, not rosewood.
I had a walnut / adirondack Bourgeois DS-260 once, it was much too bright for me, who is recommending walnut?
At present, the best idea I can think of is that you try lots of similar instruments made with different woods. AFAIK in the UK that's easiest at one of the Lowden stockists, they have 50-60 guitars in a wide range of woods.
btw I read a recent interview with George Lowden, who said his favourite woods a guitar for himself now are African blackwood with redwood. African blackwood is supposed to be the nearest current wood to BRW.
Avalon recommend Ziricote and Bog Oak as the "best sounding" B+S woods.
also cedar and walnut for clarity and warmth is another good choice?
I have liked the sound of lowden bog oak with lutz spruce
Quote from an email
Yes Cedar is a very soft, warm wood, you could perceive it as being quieter, whereas Spruce is brash, bold very loud. Redwood to me is a healthy balance of both, its sits between cedar and spruce tonally and for that reason is popular on the higher end models as it only available in the 35 and 50 series.
You can see why an instrumental soloist would prefer spruce as it gives them lots of projection and separation but like a said this might be abit too much when accompanying a singer.
Cedar rosewood in the middle ground?
as I say lutz spruce and bog oak is great sound
https://youtu.be/PJDiXsBR9_I
Best tone.
Although it’s breaking up
https://youtu.be/ykVXuLSubQQ
best of all worlds ?
cedar/rosewood
That brazillian is a stunning looking guitar. Not often you see ripple figure in either rosewoods or mahogany - but that has both. Subtle, and classy.
Adam
As soon as we get to a stage where we think we have categorised such things, a guitar will come along to prove that there are no rules just guidelines. The only Lowden I have now is a 20 year old O32, which has been toured and played on and off throughout that time. I got the itch for both cedar and redwood Lowden since that time, and ended up buying a selling some lovely guitars, simply because I found that a played in run of the mill sitka top guitar that had been well played has more dynamics, harmonic content and smoothness. Maybe that's getting into a whole different area, but if it's a guitar you intend to grow with, keep how it will develop as part of the equation.
I think as @ToneControl says it's critical get get hands on with as many guitars as possible, ideally in a place where you can feel comfortable even to make notes of your reactions as you pick up each one, it gives you something to objectively refer back to.
btw, I've heard that redwood is more variable in acoustic responses, so needs more checking before using a piece in a guitar.
When the candidate pieces were tap-tested in front of me, there were huge differences amongst the sinker redwood pieces
btw All of this will also be affected by whether you play with plectrums, picks, skin or nails
I'd advise avoiding adirondack if you play with nails, it needs hitting hard to move the wood
but I would recommend cedar rosewood (unless the player was mostly a heavy-plectrum player)