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UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Glued in bridge saddles

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tbmtbm Frets: 541
in Acoustics
I've searched around online, and while some folk say this is an abomination others say that it's what Martin did back in the day. My guitar, a Recording King ROS 616, is based on those old Martin OOOs, and has a glued in bridge saddle. Its vintage totally spec so it doesn't surprise me.

My question - anybody here ever successfully removed one? It's bone so it'll chip easily. The intonation could do with a tweak on the bass side so I'm anxious to get it sorted.

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Comments

  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30023
    Don't really understand the need for gluing saddles.A properly made saddle should be a very tight fit in it's slot with no chance of movement from side to side or front to back.
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30023
    It would be worth contacting the makers to find out what kind of glue they use and whether it is easy to get the saddle out.
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  • MistyMisty Frets: 135
    edited February 2015
    According to Martin, my '03 OM28V has a drop in saddle, but previously they were glued in. Mine is a very tight fit, and I suspect it may actually be glued in after all, as per vintage spec. I needed to lower the action to around 5/64" on the treble side, and 7/64" on the bass, so I carefully took the excess off the top of the saddle, then reshaped it. It's fine, so it's possible to do it that way if you are confident in you ability to do so. Remember to work out exactly by how much the action needs to come down at the twelfth fret, then take double that off the bridge saddle. If you are only taking it off the bass side, you'll have to carefully blend it in. Also, make sure there's the right amount of relief in the neck before you start.

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  • tbmtbm Frets: 541

    Misty said:
    According to Martin, my '03 OM28V has a drop in saddle, but previously they were glued in. Mine is a very tight fit, and I suspect it may actually be glued in after all, as per vintage spec. I needed to lower the action to around 5/64" on the treble side, and 7/64" on the bass, so I carefully took the excess off the top of the saddle, then reshaped it. It's fine, so it's possible to do it that way if you are confident in you ability to do so. Remember to work out exactly by how much the action needs to come down at the twelfth fret, then take double that off the bridge saddle. If you are only taking it off the bass side, you'll have to carefully blend it in. Also, make sure there's the right amount of relief in the neck before you start.
    Defo not confidant in my own ability to do it, but I know what to say to a luthier now....

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