Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Looper/channel switcher not working? - FX Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Looper/channel switcher not working?

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BidleyBidley Frets: 2890
edited September 2013 in FX
I bought one of these a long while ago, to switch my TS9 on with the dirt channel. I never got around to using it though, as I found a different workaround. Now I want to use it, and it doesn't work properly.

It will switch the loop in and out, but it doesn't switch the channel. My amp works with a bog standard two-button Marshall footswitch (channel and reverb). When I push the stereo cable (the pedal has a stereo socket) into the pedal slowly, it switches the channel fleetingly, but that's it. If I leave the jack in at the point it switches the channel, the switch does nothing. Is the pedal wired to the wrong lug on the stereo socket? Here's a pic;

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd489/Bydytron/IMG_20130928_1542361_zpsd152f8dc.jpg

It has an internal (what I think is a) polarity switch too, which doesn't affect the problem.

Halp!
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Comments

  • mike_lmike_l Frets: 5698
    if its like mine a standard instrument cable does the switching, and has no trouble doing it.
    Mines a gec-9 unit.

    Ringleader of the Cambridge cartel, pedal champ and king of the dirt boxes (down to 21) 

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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2890
    Just tried a standard instrument cable, nothing. Cheers though dude!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    Normally, it's the tip which switches the channel and the ring which switches the reverb - although there are exceptions, like many Peaveys - so the jack is wired correctly. If that was the cause of the problem the reverb would turn on and off instead of the channel.

    Lots of potential for short circuits on that polarity switch - how is it mounted when the pedal is assembled? Are the two 'X' wires touching each other? (They're not necessary anyway, it just needs to be a SPDT.) It also looks like the switch body is coming apart, so it may just be knackered.

    I would remove the polarity switch and the blue wire, leaving the orange wires attached at the footswitch end. Then simply connect one orange wire to the tip terminal of the jack and test it. If that makes the channel switch the wrong way round, swap to the other orange wire. Finally remove (or insulate the end of) the unused orange wire.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2890
    edited September 2013
    ICBM said:
    Normally, it's the tip which switches the channel and the ring which switches the reverb - although there are exceptions, like many Peaveys - so the jack is wired correctly. If that was the cause of the problem the reverb would turn on and off instead of the channel.
    @ICBM Aha, I had my reverb down low. The switch does turn the reverb on and off (my amp, a Carvin X100B, has no reverb indicator light). So it it a case of wiring the lugs on the switch differently after all?
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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2890
    edited September 2013
    Whoops
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    edited September 2013
    Yes, just move the blue wire to the next terminal, next to the white/grey wire.

    Bloody Americans! I thought that was just Peavey :).

    I'd still tape up or remove that polarity switch though, it looks like a right mess.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2890

    ICBM said:
    Yes, just move the blue wire to the next terminal, next to the white/grey wire.

    Bloody Americans! I thought that was just Peavey :).

    I'd still tape up or remove that polarity switch though, it looks like a right mess.
    Brilliant, cheers. One more problem though - the terminal between the 'blue' (it's actually purple, but the photo has made it look blue) and the white has been inexplicably snipped off. Would it be alright to solder it onto the bit where the terminal was?

    The polarity switch looks alright IRL - again, the photo hasn't flattered it.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    Bidley said:

    One more problem though - the terminal between the 'blue' (it's actually purple, but the photo has made it look blue) and the white has been inexplicably snipped off. Would it be alright to solder it onto the bit where the terminal was?
    Yes, as long as you can get a good bond and don't melt the plastic.

    Bidley said:

    The polarity switch looks alright IRL - again, the photo hasn't flattered it.
    Just make sure it doesn't short against the casing.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2890
    ICBM said:
    Bidley said:

    One more problem though - the terminal between the 'blue' (it's actually purple, but the photo has made it look blue) and the white has been inexplicably snipped off. Would it be alright to solder it onto the bit where the terminal was?
    Yes, as long as you can get a good bond and don't melt the plastic.

    Bidley said:

    The polarity switch looks alright IRL - again, the photo hasn't flattered it.
    Just make sure it doesn't short against the casing.
    10-4. Thanks for your help dude.
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