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UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Query regarding old TS808

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Well, as the title says, I have a query regarding my (1981, I think) TS808. It has seen better days, that's for sure- I got it from a friend about 15 years ago and it was a mess then! As you can see from the picture it has no battery connection and there is a bit missing from the bottom of the footswitch. As well as the battery cover being missing. imageI haven't used it, though supposedly it did work with a power supply. I was thinking of selling it (to try and cash in after seeing what that one sold for on this very forum!), but when I tried to power it up it didn't do anything. I think everything is ok with the circuit board though I don't really know how to tell.
image So what I'd like to know is a) where exactly the battery connectors would go - I haven't been able to find any pictures on the internet showing this- and b) what needs to go on the switch- could this be why it won't work. It doesn't allow a guitar signal to pass at all, btw. Is this a straightforward fix or is it something more terminal?  Is there anyone out there who can help? I have Bass VI GAS!
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    The battery wires would normally go to right next to the DC socket (positive wire) and to the input jack ring terminal (negative wire), but it looks like the input jack has been replaced with the wrong type so this may not be possible without re-replacing it.

    Are you sure you used the right polarity of power supply? These 8-series ones are tip positive.

    The circuit board does look OK, but you probably wouldn't be able to tell visually if something like the protection diode is shorted, unless it's actually burnt out. (This can happen if the wrong power supply is used.)

    The switch looks OK, I think it's just missing the foam pad.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • dogloaddogload Frets: 1495
    edited September 2013
    Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated.

    I didn't know that the power supply was centre +ve, so I'll try that and see if it works. So the jack sockets should be regular open ones? It looks like this pedal has had a history of problems :(

    edit: I've just reversed the polarity on my home-made adaptor, and the little bugger works! 
    A quick spray of switch cleaner on the pots and it sounds ticketyboo. Next step: battery.

    Thanks @ICBM. Where would we all be etc... :)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    edited September 2013
    dogload said:
    So the jack sockets should be regular open ones? It looks like this pedal has had a history of problems :(
    The output jack looks original. The input one should look the same - without the metal sides - but be a 'stereo' (TRS) jack in order to switch on the battery when a plug is in. I can't quite see clearly enough in the pic to tell whether it is or not - if it has a spare terminal, it probably is and that's where the black battery wire goes. (Although it could be a switched jack, which won't work.) The original jacks have a tendency to go brittle and fall apart, which is probably why it's been changed. Any TRS jack which fits will do, although to get the crazy money these pedals fetch, as original as possible would probably be best.

    Also, if it's been buggered around with a lot, make sure it has the black plastic insulator sheet between the PCB and the casing - people lose these, and the board can short out. You can make a new one easily from thin card if you have to.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • dogloaddogload Frets: 1495
    ICBM said:

    Also, if it's been buggered around with a lot, make sure it has the black plastic insulator sheet between the PCB and the casing - people lose these, and the board can short out. You can make a new one easily from thin card if you have to.
    Thanks again. There is no sheet, but there is a layer of foam that seems to have been on there a long time, that keeps the board off the back plate.

    I just can't get the battery to power it. There is a black and a red wire to the left of the DC socket (above the row of pretty-coloured wires). The black one is currently connected via the output jack to earth, the red is connected to the input jack. Are these the battery ones?  (sorry to hassle).
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    The red one should be. The black one I think is the PCB ground connection - I think the battery wire goes straight to the input jack normally, I don't have an old Ibanez here to check and I can't quite remember. If you have the red connected to the battery positive and you temporarily connect the battery negative to any ground (which will mean the battery is on all the time when the pedal is unplugged, so don't leave it like that) it should work. If it doesn't, chances are that the switch inside the DC jack is buggered.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • dogloaddogload Frets: 1495
    edited September 2013
    Hmmm... I think that may be the case. No guitar signal passes through when the psu isn't connected, no matter how I try to connect the battery clip. 
    I think I will have to just accept defeat for now and either try and sell it 'sold as seen' or bung it on my pedal board for a bit of vintage credibility amongst my Mooer, Nux and Arion pedals!
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