Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Need some Luthier advice -- Rotting Tortoise binding - Photos added - Making & Modding Discussions on The Fretboard
›
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Need some Luthier advice -- Rotting Tortoise binding - Photos added

What's Hot
ESchapESchap Frets: 1427
edited September 2013 in Making & Modding

I've got an old and pretty beat up Gibson Classical guitar (1966) which I really don't want to lose, as it has such great tone and is a dream to play.

Issue is that it has Celluloid faux tortoise binding, top and back.  Of course the binding is gassing out and it seems to be getting exponentially worse these days.  The main problem is that any lacquer that is left on the binding turns to a sticky mess and reeks of ammonia, making it a pain to keep in a playable shape.

As a chemist, I know that this is not a reversible problem and also in spite of the superglue etc. "fixes" I've seen, the material will continue to degrade until it liberates itself entirely into the atmosphere (same material as old film).

So how much of a job for a skilled Luthier is it to replace the binding?  Would it be possible to do that without having to refinish the whole guitar?

0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter

Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    edited September 2013

    its not too bad a job to replace binding and usually wouldn't need much more than a bit of touch up if the rest of the process was done carefully.  

     

    On a guitar that age you would expect to have a bit of a line in the finish between binding and wood  so you don't need to worry about getting a perfectly level finish over the new binding.  

     

    depending on the actual condition it would go something like this:

    1)Score all around binding

    2)remove binding with sharp chisel or even reroute shelf compeltely if needed

    3)glue on new binding

    4)scrape binding level

    5)refinish if needed

     

    there is a chance of finish damage at each stage.

     

    biggest issue is removing any binding that goes under any other part (neck heel).... and finding the right material or a modern equivilent that looks close enough to work

     

    I would be looking to reduce the dangers of step 4 by  going for a shelf slightly deeper than exisiting  to give the look of slightly sunken binding

    Wez Venables Guitars
    Instagram
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • ESchapESchap Frets: 1427
    Many thanks Wez, you give me hope.   Is tortoise binding fairly easy to get a hold of?  it's 2mm x 6mm approx.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • WezVWezV Frets: 15793
    you can get it but thickness may be an issue


    I have never found one that looks quite like the vintage stuff and its difficult to import legally
    Wez Venables Guitars
    Instagram
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • streethawkstreethawk Frets: 1628
    Any chance of a pic of this guitar? Sounds interesting.  :)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • ESchapESchap Frets: 1427
    I'll post some pics over the weekend.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • streethawkstreethawk Frets: 1628
    Cheers!

    Now go buy this for the job and sell it on to me afterwards. 




    ;;)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • ESchapESchap Frets: 1427
    edited September 2013

    Not a job I'd be doing myself @streethawk.

    Thanks again for the advice @WezV. ; @ICBM has found me someone who can do it locally.

     

    This is the Guitar.   Gibson made these from the late fifties until about 1968.  This one is 1966 and is the "base" model with added electrics!  Its a piezo (or its predecessor?) under the bridge, no preamp etc. and pretty much useless, though it still works.

    This one is a bit unusual having the mahogany / maple sandwich neck, that was usually on the higher models.  Beautifully figured rosewood board on this one.   Its a spruce top with solid mahogany back and sides.  Its also got a zero fret not unique in classical guitars but unusual.  Also got a huge sound hole which I think contributes to it having a great bottom end, mellow sounding guitar, that's what I like about it.  Its beat up, higher action than i'd ideally like, got a loose brace in the top, rotting tortoiseshell and yet it's still a favourite guitar, kind of like an old friend, hence why I'll probably end up spending more on it than I should! 

     

    You can see the jack socket in this photo ... also how the gassing tortoise is discolouring the top.

    image

     

    image

     

    The tortoise, you can see the "crystal" parts where it's gassing out.

     

    image

    0reaction image LOL 2reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • streethawkstreethawk Frets: 1628
    Lovely stuff, interesting spec too. 

    Keep us updated! 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.