Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Mustang switch repair - Guitar Discussions on The Fretboard
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UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Mustang switch repair

MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 211
in Guitar
Hi all

I have managed to break the pickup selector switch on my Squier Sonic Mustang - it's the shaft that's sheared off rather than the plastic tip.

What would be the best replacement and is it possible to change it without removing the strings? I've just had it set up and the strings are new.

It's not the end of the world if I need to wait till string change time as I can still just about operate the switch.

Martin
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Comments

  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 6565
    tFB Trader
    You might be able to get to the old switch by removing all the pickguard screws and lifing the pickguard. The wires are usually long enough to allow you to pull it out but it can be a bit fiddly.

    Alternatively put a capo on the first fret (it holds the strings in the nut), loosen the strings and take the neck off which will allow you to remove the pickguard entirely.

    The best replacement would be a short Switchcraft one which costs about £25. You can buy one similar quality to the existing one for about a fiver.
    Lacquer demos here: https://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/category/finish/
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  • MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 211
    edited October 2023
    Cheers Steve. I will give it some thought as I'm wary of taking the neck off after it being set up. It might be better to wait till I change strings unless the one that's in fails completely.

    A better switch will be a good idea. I also fancy a new scratchplate and jack, but it gets to a point where the new bits cost as much as the guitar did new :) 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    MartinBush said:

    A better switch will be a good idea. I also fancy a new scratchplate and jack, but it gets to a point where the new bits cost as much as the guitar did new :) 
    How little the guitar cost new is not a justification for using crap parts :). Good parts will pay for themselves by never needing to be replaced again - just look on the low cost of the instrument as an even better reason to use good ones, as the total price is still low. A Switchcraft toggle and jack are the best parts you can buy.

    You can easily reuse the strings if you don't kink them when you're taking them off. I normally do on about three quarters of repairs. If you need the neck off to get the pickguard off, I would slacken the strings completely, capo at the first fret with a piece of soft card under the strings to stop them marking the fingerboard, and remove the neck leaving the strings attached at both ends.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 211
    Cheers chaps. 

    I know the neck is shimmed - would that be an issue for someone like me removing the neck and getting it back on correctly?

    I can use a space ordering iron etc, so I am ok in that respect.

    Any recommendations on the right parts if I replace the switch and Jack socket? (I know Switch craft, but I'm capable of selecting the wrong parts!)

    I could ask about pots too, but that might be a job for another time.


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  • english_bobenglish_bob Frets: 4817
    edited October 2023
    Cheers chaps. 

    I know the neck is shimmed - would that be an issue for someone like me removing the neck and getting it back on correctly?

    I can use a space ordering iron etc, so I am ok in that respect.

    Any recommendations on the right parts if I replace the switch and Jack socket? (I know Switch craft, but I'm capable of selecting the wrong parts!)

    I could ask about pots too, but that might be a job for another time.


    A space ordering iron? 0.o

    @sixstringsupplies is worth a look. They'll have all the right parts (and not many of the "wrong" ones) and they're generally helpful and nice.

    https://sixstringsupplies.co.uk/

    There's an argument for doing the whole wiring loom at once instead of replacing bits piecemeal, but there's no reason why you can't do it in bits.

    The neck shim should sit at the back of the neck pocket. If it's not glued in you just need to make sure it doesn't fall out, and that it stays where it was when you put the neck back on. It won't have been placed with millimetric precision or anything.

    Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.

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  • MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 211
    Cheers @english_bob ... I will leave my phone 'corrected' reference to a soldering iron in my post above as I like it :) 

    I could do the whole loom, but I'm not sure I could afford it all in one go. And I'd probably not notice the difference in sound if I changed the value of the pots/ caps at this stage. It would be good to get the stuff most likely to fail mechanically sorted though.
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