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Spalted Beech Tbird style with an Elm top. I don't have any pre shaping photos so we'll have to skip that part for now.
Beech, Walnut, Beech
Seemed like a good excuse to get the #7 plane out hehe.
The way I do this has changed a few times but I've settled on simply using the guide fence on my palm router to set the bit in the centre of my squared up billet, and cut the channel in 3 passes of 3mm each. Then I'll check the rod for depth and take more if required. I'm settled on using truss rods from Allied Lutherie in America, more expensive than others but it's clear to see why when you get hold of one.
And glued it on
I used 3 bits of ply with straight edges for a quick and easy template. Line up the neck and hold in place with a clamp (this also allows a small amount of adjustment to get it perfect) and draw round the heel. Then simply line up my ply to create the pocket template, placing it slightly over the pencil line to make the pocket a fraction tight - the neck and pocket can be sanded to fit then.
I start off by taking the bulk out with a forstner bit in my drill press and then use a 1/2" router to get most of the way, swapping to 1/4" to get a tighter radius in the corners.
Again though, another process I neglected to take pictures of.
I tend to drill through with a 2mm pilot bit and use a forstner for the actual hole. This leaves a nice clean hole and I can drill from both sides the avoid any spelching.
Now this is where disaster struck and I'm still working on the fix, so watch this space...
Basically I decided to thin the heel a little by passing through my thicknesser, great idea.
The headstock is angled back slightly and instead of turning the machine off and waiting for it to stop before removing the neck... you can see where this is going... I didn't! and it took a nice chunk out of the back of the headstock, d'oh!
I didn't get any pics but I've thinned the head and plan to put an overlay on the back and see how it looks. Fingers crossed
I'm not sure how I feel about it visually, but I'm planning a black burst on the body so I will match the repair in if needs be.
Here's the Walnut overlay, to pick up the center stripe on the neck.
The I inlayed some Elm from the body top to strengthen the joint
It will be interesting to see what it looks like when carved and how it'll hold up to strings. I've given it a good test today, but I know the strings will be a lot less nervous than me about how much force they use hehe.
I'm a little on the fence about it visually, but my wife really likes it, so let me know what you think... repaired or ruined?
I'll put it to a vote, click 'wow' for repaired or click 'lol' for ruined haha
You could easily hide that repair underneath a headstock stinger of a solid colour. Even if the rest of the bass was natural a black stinger wouldn't look out of place.
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@WezV I share your doubts tbh. I've leant on it a few times, though cautiously. The piece is set in 5/6mm but I might just add extra and go for a stinger.
I'm trying to think how to strengthen it... either the back plate needs to go further, and more gradually onto the shaft, or it needs some inserts or reinforcement. Perhaps short CF rods into the neck shaft, or a CF overlay that wraps onto it.
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