ISP Decimator II G-String - input socket issue

andyg_prs · August 2023

Hi,

Just back from practice, can't get to any of my testing stuff (not that I know much) but I have an issue with my Decimator, and a gig on Sunday. Would rather fix it than take the noise gate off the board.

I've had issues in the past where I've all but lost all my signal. Turned out that the input socket was loose....and tightening the nut by hand / wiggling the socket and it would be fine for weeks on end. Tonight it was constantly on the blink.

I had assumed it was a standard mono socket and that when it had been tightened it had twisted the wires and that I'd find a dodgy connection. Instead I found this kind of socket and to the bare eye, all of the connections seem fine. The socket was sitting aligned perfectly and no strain on the wires.

To my unknowledgable eyes, it looks like one of those sockets designed to stop a pedal from consuming power until a jack is inserted. I'm probably wide of the mark, but something like you have your ground, signal and then another sprung part that is essentially shorting something until the jack is inserted.

But the ISP only works off an adaptor.....I guess there is a useful purpose in keeping circuitry inactive until the guitar input is plugged in / presented.

**EDIT** - it does have a battery, I just have never used one with it, numpty.....so perhaps it is the kind of socket I think....

Anyhow, I need to work out how to test the socket, but probably just replace it anyway as it has proven to be unreliable. I have a feeling I might have something suitable, but can't check till the morning as it's in a cupboard in my son's bedroom and he's asleep.

So I guess, I'm guess trying to get ahead....by understanding what sort of socket it is.....and/or what you savvy guys might do / test first.

I'll post in the morning on the type of sockets I find in the hope you can confirm how you'd wire it....

Sorry if this is a bit vague, but I have very limited time to get this sorted before the gig, what with work and childcare and all.

Thanks,
Andy

andyg_prs · August 2023

For when it comes to trying to figure out how to wire the replacement socket.....black is earth and will be hitting the sleeve of the guitar lead....I'll need to work out which wire goes to the tip (red?) and which is the short (brown?).

So I guess if I plugged a patch lead in, I could do a continuity test from the tip of the patch lead to the brown and red wires, to see which it is. Does that make sense?

I'm sorry this must sound so noddy....I have no real knowledge I just try to 'logic it out'....

Image: https://i.ibb.co/tLHM1c5/368305915-319018150793811-145498209177816224-n.jpg

BillDL · August 2023

I can't be sure of this as I am not an electronics wizard, but going from what I can see in the photo it looks as though the sprung steel connector for the tip of the inserted plug is supposed to make contact with the metal connector that the red wire is soldered to, and when the plug is extracted it breaks that contact again.

Image: https://tfb-user-images.eu-central-1.linodeobjects.com/106b450e5e509f5e9a23f7fad8f82a03e09aaf0952bdac9f66

Does this look to be the case and is it making contact when the plug is inserted?

andyg_prs · August 2023

@BillDL - yup.....in day light (love getting old!) I can see that the red wire connects to the sprung contact that connects to the tip....the brown wire connects to a sprung contact that connects half way down the sleeve...and the black contact is the ground that connects to the threaded body of the whole input socket.

It's actually a bit concerning as it's so simple and seems to be mechanically sound. I was thinking I could re-flow the solder to each contact.....perhaps pull the tip (red wire) sprung contact towards the centre of the socket so that it has more tension when pushing against the jack?

andyg_prs · August 2023

I haven't so far seen a version of these on Amazon for next day delivery (next old age moan..I miss Maplins).....I can see these but contrasting reviews....https://www.amazon.co.uk/6-35mm-Stereo-Electric-Guitars-Speakers/dp/B09RB17MKH/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

ICBM · August 2023

Is it possible that by trying to tighten it from the outside, you simply turned it round a bit so one of the terminals shorted on something and muted the signal? ie nothing actually wrong with the socket.

andyg_prs · August 2023

ICBM said:

Is it possible that by trying to tighten it from the outside, you simply turned it round a bit so one of the terminals shorted on something and muted the signal? ie nothing actually wrong with the socket.

I did consider that....looking at the innerds, it doesn't look likely.....but.....I've tweaked the sprung bits slightly....I'm going to put some insulation around the terminals.....tighten it back up....test it....and pray

andyg_prs · August 2023

Well, what do you know.....as I was experimenting with some insulation tape around the terminals, the brown wire broke off....I'm not that clumsy....so perhaps that was the failing connection in progress. I'll re do each connection today....but with some oversized heatshrink stuff on the wires first so that I can prevent anything fowling too....

BillDL · August 2023

You mentiioned Maplin. The brand still exists as an online retailer only having been bought by OYOD Holdings based in Mauritius. They have a very basic office / consumer range of leads and connectors, etc that you arrive at if you just go to https://www.maplin.co.uk/ , but if you go to the "Components & Tools" menu it takes you to https://pro.maplin.co.uk/ where you can buy electronic components, sockets, plugs, wire, and so on. It's nowhere near as comprehensive as places like RS Components, but I've bought the occasional thing from there when other retailers were out of stock.

andyg_prs · August 2023

I've completed, re-assembled and tested things.....and it appears to be working perfectly - I've wiggled the jack in the socket fairly vigorously and no issues....so fingers crossed for my gig on Sunday.

As an aside, I'm rubbish at soldering. I currently use an Iroda SolderPro 50k. I like that it heats quickly and being butane powered it's convenient to use without being limited by a supply cable.

However, despite using decent solder, and trying to keep the tip clean with brass wool, and tip tinner I don't get great results. To be fair, today I couldn't find the tip tinner, so I only had brass wool and a damp soldering sponge.

When I have a new tip, generally things are good....and I know about holding the components still with some kind of helper (although I often find they aren't that helpful) and keeping the heat on for a couple of seconds to get a good joint.

But very soon, the soldering tip seems mucky....it's not shiny and so the resultant solder joints generally aren't either.

And I generally use the soldering iron for a project or repair every few months, so it's not getting that much use.

I try to strike the balance between keeping the tip clean and destroying its surface with the brass wool although I'd expect the brass to be sacrificial / soft enough to do its job without quickly destroying the tip.

Could it just be that I need a better quality soldering iron....and if so, what are your recommendations please?

PS - I have looked at quite a few videos about how to solder online, and it feels to me as though when the soldering iron is behaving as it should

things turn out ok.

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ISP Decimator II G-String - input socket issue

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