Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Early 70's Twin Reverb Do's, don't and what took for.. - Amps Discussions on The Fretboard
›
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Early 70's Twin Reverb Do's, don't and what took for..

nero1701nero1701 Frets: 770
in Amps
Hi collective..

I'd quite like to buy an early 70's Twin reverb.

The one I've found(at my price point) looks to be I'm very good condition. The seller claims its completely original. They are also unsure if its been recapped and they bought it used. I'd imagine at this age (72/73) it will likely need recapped and potentially a service of sorts. 

My previous life was in electronic engineering and I'm comfortable with component replacement and measuring voltage/currents/tolerance ect..

I don't expect the seller to let me whip out a DMM and a solder iron...but is there anything obvious I can look out for ?
My Trading Feedback

"If it smells like shit...It is probably shit"
0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter

Comments

  • maharg101maharg101 Frets: 568
    nero1701 said:
    Hi collective..

    I'd quite like to buy an early 70's Twin reverb.

    ...

    I don't expect the seller to let me whip out a *DMM* and a solder iron...but is there anything obvious I can look out for ?
    It is important to check the amp with your favourite effects, and the swirly goodness of a deluxe memory man is a fantastic choice :grin: 
    This one goes to eleven
    Trading feedback here
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    edited August 2023
    Changed speakers are one of the common issues with old Twins - they were powerful enough that the stock ones didn't hold up very well. Other than that, they weren't amps which were as commonly modified as Marshalls, nor as unreliable and so often-badly repaired as AC30s, so it's less likely to have been messed about with if it looks to be in decent condition. It's worth opening it up before you buy if you can - bodged repair work inside the chassis should be reasonably obvious if you're familiar with electronics. The main filter caps are under the rectangular tray on the bottom of the chassis - the original caps are brown cardboard-cased 'stick of dynamite' types, if they're plain aluminium or modern plastic-sleeved types then they've been replaced. The bias filter cap - roughly behind the pilot light - is often overlooked so might not be a conclusive indicator, and many techs don't change the cathode bypass caps either (these will be plain aluminium usually).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom · Share on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.