UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45
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Got 3 of my friends AC30's in at the moment. 2 of them look like early eighties, the 3rd one is a Korg ninieties model I think.
Of the eighties models One had a bad filter cap, another one a bad screen resistor and bad bypass cap. While I had that board out I replaced everything on it as the component count and cost was so low. Both these models run fine but there's a fair bit of hum and hiss even with nothing plugged into the inputs. It's not terrible but as these amps are used mic'ed up in a theatre environment they need to be quieter really between songs. Any tips, mods that might help with this issue ?
The 3rd one, the Korg model has an obvious problem, the AC heater feeds for the 12AX7's are just straight wires running across the board, not remotely twisted. I can lower the noise floor just by moving the wires away from the board. So I will replace these with a twisted pair and route them away from the most sensitive area of the PCB. Any other ideas that might help ?
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These amps are so unreliable you pretty much have to have at least 2 and preferably 3. I've never known anyone to gig one on a regular basis, like twice a week for more than a few months before something goes wrong. Normally valves and bad joints but also cooked caps and resistors.
These things get way to hot IMHO and some of the early ones I see are death traps in the way they have been earthed and had filter caps lashed in with tape over the years.
They sound great though.
I had a 1965 'Bass' model that one night turned into a firework on stage - sounded epic just before it detonated but when it let go, I had flames & smoke. Proper fucked.
Anyway... I took it to a shop I used to buy loads of vintage gear from. They had a great tech but they also had a sales dude who thought he could fix stuff. I told him not to touch it, as it was proper blown up and to give it to the proper tech... obviously he didn't listen and after I went, plugged it in and connected up his Les Paul and flicked the on switch....
Thankfully there was someone else in the shop to kill the power... you see, he had hold of the neck with his left hand, touching the strings whilst he flicked the metal mains switch with his right hand. He survived but wasn't well. The top of the switch was blackened even after it had been repaired.
I can't remember the exact fault but basically someone in the past had lashed up the power supply and when the amp blew up, there was a dead short from the power traff to deck meaning the mains switch was sat at high potential with zero chassis earth (probably to 'cure' an earth loop)... a proper death trap!!
AC30s were worth sod all for a long time, and often were 'repaired' by folks who didn't know what they were doing... this one was an example of this. Thankfully it didn't kill me (or the sales monkey). Thats why any vintage amp that comes my way gets properly checked over before I even plug it in... lots of vintage gear has 'vintage' repair work...
AC30s were designed in the days when Mullards were the standard EL84, and they will (just) take that sort of abuse and run reasonably reliably. Modern ones tend to die more quickly.
That said, Pete Cornish posted this pic of the valves when he was servicing Brian May's AC30s after a Queen tour, when they'd been thrashed to death presumably. That was just how things were done then! (Not helped by his AC30s having solid-state rectifiers fitted too, which increases the dissipation.)
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