Thee-way toggle – any advice?

citesquestion · July 2023

Have a guitar that came with one of those Freeway switches and I don't like it. Thinking of sacrificing the coil split and just installing a regular one. What are the good ones, are some easier to wire than the others, etc.?

Alternatively, if there's something more pedestrian like "pull to enable coil split"? Thanks!

Dave_Mc · July 2023

I think the Switchcraft ones are the good ones (don't quote me on that, though, I've just kept the 3-way switches in all of my guitars which have them as they still worked!), but I think (again, don't quote me) they're probably imperial-sized while Freeway is probably (based on the other Freeways I've tried) metric. So that's going to be a bit of a pain. Assuming I'm right in that it's metric, I'd be inclined to try to find something decent in metric-sizing than chop up a guitar.

You can do a coil split on any push-pull or push-push DPDT switch. All you have to do is replace one of your existing pots with one (or replace two pots if you want to be able to coil-split each pickup individually). Again, you're into the same problem as with the switch- metric and imperial. What guitar is it, out of interest?

(That's interesting that you don't like the Freeway... I've got one but never got round to using it as it looked a real pain to wire! The blade Freeways are pretty good, though, and not too hard to wire.)

Funkfingers · July 2023

Switchcraft stuff was originally made for military applications. It is combat tested and, consequently, has some chance of withstanding the abuse meted out by Rock musicians.

There are now several variants of the Freeway six-way toggle selector switch, involving varying degrees of wiring complexity. IMO, bridge/both/neck + the same three options coil split is a criminal underuse of the switch.

The degree of difficulty in altering your wiring will depend on the control layout of the guitar.

The depth of the control cavity will determine whether you need a straight or right-angled switch.

HilditchGuitars · July 2023

Dave_Mc said:

I think the Switchcraft ones are the good ones (don't quote me on that, though, I've just kept the 3-way switches in all of my guitars which have them as they still worked!), but I think (again, don't quote me) they're probably imperial-sized while Freeway is probably (based on the other Freeways I've tried) metric. So that's going to be a bit of a pain. Assuming I'm right in that it's metric, I'd be inclined to try to find something decent in metric-sizing than chop up a guitar.

You can do a coil split on any push-pull or push-push DPDT switch. All you have to do is replace one of your existing pots with one (or replace two pots if you want to be able to coil-split each pickup individually). Again, you're into the same problem as with the switch- metric and imperial. What guitar is it, out of interest?

(That's interesting that you don't like the Freeway... I've got one but never got round to using it as it looked a real pain to wire! The blade Freeways are pretty good, though, and not too hard to wire.)

Agreed on the push/pull suggestion.
FWIW, I use CTS pots all the time and they fit nicely in a 10mm hole. I think they are actually 3/8" with is just shy of 10mm. As for the switch, I use the standard open toggle switches from Northwest Guitars and I've never had a problem in almost 4 years. They fit nicely in a 12mm hole, and the Freeway I once installed for someone fit in the same hole, so maybe they're metric too.

english_bob · July 2023

You can also coil split with a regular pot. I've wired my Sheraton so that with the tone controls on 10 the pickups are split, but when you roll down to 8 or so you get humbuckers, with a partial split in between. From 0-8 it works as a normal tone control.

https://www.premierguitar.com/diy/mod-garage/spin-a-split-wiring.

Like everyone else, I'd go Switchcraft for the new switch.

ICBM · July 2023

Switchcraft for a toggle. They’re the same size, there’s no difference between imperial and metric (well, technically there is, but they fit in the same hole). Just make sure the cavity is deep enough if you’re fitting the standard tall straight one - if not they do a short one and a right-angle one.

citesquestion · July 2023

Dave_Mc said:

(That's interesting that you don't like the Freeway... I've got one but never got round to using it as it looked a real pain to wire! The blade Freeways are pretty good, though, and not too hard to wire.)

Maybe I just need to play with the wiring but I think I just play the three HMB combinations, coil split stuff is rarely (but sometimes) useful, while the additional out of phase split coil options are just not for me.

https://www.hotroxuk.com/switch-for-les-paul-3-position-us-retro-fit-black-cap-1.html
Is this the right thing? Any reason it's 1/2 the cost than on some other websites?

SteveRobinson · July 2023

citesquestion said:

https://www.hotroxuk.com/switch-for-les-paul-3-position-us-retro-fit-black-cap-1.html
Is this the right thing? Any reason it's 1/2 the cost than on some other websites?

Because it's not very good. It may be adequate though.

The difference is in construction - e.g. where the contacts on that switch are just dimples pressed in the leaves, a Switchcraft switch has separate contacts brazed on; they're also just overall tougher and better made.

BTW, a switch identical to the one you linked is half the price here
https://northwestguitars.co.uk/products/3-way-short-straight-toggle-switch-assemby?variant=44780531056914

This is the one that I buy:
https://sixstringsupplies.co.uk/collections/guitar-switches/products/switchcraft-short-frame-toggle-switch

Dave_Mc · July 2023

Wow @HilditchGuitars and @ICBM I didn't realise the switches were (more or less) the same size! I just assumed they wouldn't be a direct swap, because I don't think the pots are. The metric pots do seem to be noticeably smaller, though I suppose it maybe depends on how tight the holes are cut in the guitar for them...

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Thee-way toggle – any advice?

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