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I would simply soak some superglue into the cracks and lightly sand the top of the bridge before it sets, so the dust goes into the glue and fills the cracks with glue/dust composite. You'll need to replace one of the pins, but these aren't too hard to find on Ebay - you need the correct one, not just for the look but they're a different size from standard ones. (I have a couple of spares if you can't find any, I think.) Press the broken end out from the inside with a coin or pick.
More importantly, the original and difficult-to-replace non-standard-spacing machineheads appear to be present and all intact.
It's a great price even with the minor damage, assuming the top hasn't started to warp around the bridge - although very difficult to tell for sure in a front-on photo, it doesn't look like it has.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Those tuners look like they'd make hard work of keeping it in tune.
Good luck!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
The bridge should be fine with minor cosmetic work & I have a spare NOS bridge pin that if anyone here buy's it, they can have.
The tuners are among the most stable I've had, keeping my EKO 12 in tune for months without any need for adjustment.
The phrase 'bullet proof' gets applied a lot to describing guitars, but in the case of the EKO, it's true
I can't house another guitar, but if I did, this would be a candidate.