Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Buzzing on top E & G - Acoustics Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Buzzing on top E & G

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My Taylor dreadnaught has developed over the last few weeks an annoying buzzing on the top E and G string. There is clearance over the frets so I know it's not touching them. Any ideas what it could be?
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    is it buzzing open and/or fretted ?  if so specific any frets ?



    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • bertie said:
    is it buzzing open and/or fretted ?  if so specific any frets ?



    Yes, it's on open and fretted
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    I assume you've brushed the nut slots so that it can't possibly be due to dirt there?

    :) 
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  • sounds like the neck could do with a tweak more relief? 
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  • Mellish said:
    I assume you've brushed the nut slots so that it can't possibly be due to dirt there?

    :) 
    No I haven't done that actually...will give it a try. I assume with new strings I can just slacken them off and dust it?
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    check the saddle,  not "over" cutting slots in are they ? 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • sounds like the neck could do with a tweak more relief? 
    How easy is that to do myself? Is it best done by an expert? It's a £3k guitar so a bit wary
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  • I've checked again having changed strings and it's mainly buzzing when I pick the open string. The E is worse than the G
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    edited December 2022
    sounds like the neck could do with a tweak more relief? 
    How easy is that to do myself? Is it best done by an expert? It's a £3k guitar so a bit wary
    check it first,  it might not need it

     capo the 1st fret,   hold down one of the offending strings at the 17th  - check there's a gap at the 7th/8th,  you can do this by either eye, pressing down  or "pluck"   -    if the string is fretting out  you need a tad more relief  -   turn the truss 1/8th of a turn (NO MORE) anti clock wise.  Let the guitar settle for a bit,  check again.

    Also -  does it have screw on tuner buttons ? (my 614 and 612 did)  check they're snug


    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Yep, just slacken, move the strings and brush the slots.

    The buzzing may be caused by something else but...well,wontnhurt to try it. 

    :) 
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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 6860
    edited December 2022
    sounds like the neck could do with a tweak more relief? 
    How easy is that to do myself? Is it best done by an expert? It's a £3k guitar so a bit wary
    dead easy if you're game - take off the truss rod cover, loosen the truss rod a tiny little bit...like, an 8th of a turn counter-clockwise. pop the cover back on. I do my 1962 fender whenever it needs - don't let the value deter you from a two second job. However, if you're not comfortable doing it then there's also zero shame in that - pay a tech to do it.

    https://www.taylorguitars.com/support/maintenance/truss-rod-adjustments
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  • bertie said:
    sounds like the neck could do with a tweak more relief? 
    How easy is that to do myself? Is it best done by an expert? It's a £3k guitar so a bit wary
    check it first,  it might not need it

     capo the 1st fret,   hold down one of the offending strings at the 17th  - check there's a gap at the 7th/8th,  you can do this by either eye, pressing down  or "pluck"   -    if the string is fretting out  you need a tad more relief  -   turn the truss 1/8th of a turn (NO MORE) anti clock wise.  Let the guitar settle for a bit,  check again.


    The gap, if there is one, is very minimal on the E. 
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  • @bertie Yes the tuners are screw in - i'll check them
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    @lincolnblue ;   - check the G as well -  it should "ring"  enough to tell its not hitting the fret, you can also gently push down,  check there's "some" give before hitting the fret  - 

    Ive had loose buttons cause rattling before :)  (ooh er mrs)
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    If the strings are clear of the frets, I wouldn't adjust the truss rod, at least not until I'd exhausted nut/saddle.

    :) 
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  • bertie said:
    @lincolnblue ;   - check the G as well -  it should "ring"  enough to tell its not hitting the fret, you can also gently push down,  check there's "some" give before hitting the fret  - 

    Ive had loose buttons cause rattling before :)  (ooh er mrs)
    If I touch the string against the 7th fret there's a slight ring as it hits the fret so there must be a slight gap
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Sounds like relief is good.

    :) 
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  • Mellish said:
    If the strings are clear of the frets, I wouldn't adjust the truss rod, at least not until I'd exhausted nut/saddle.

    :) 
    I've brushed the slots on the nut. Not sure what to do about the saddle?
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    Not sure what to do about the saddle?
    just check to see if the E and G have cut slots/deeper slots  (which will of course lower the action slightly !!)
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Well, if the strings have cut into the saddle top (made grooves), *that* could be the trouble.

    It's difficult cos we can't see what we're trying to diagnose. Maybe pop it to George or AJ?

    :) 
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  • Mellish said:
    Well, if the strings have cut into the saddle top (made grooves), *that* could be the trouble.

    It's difficult cos we can't see what we're trying to diagnose. Maybe pop it to George or AJ?

    :) 
    The E particularly has made a groove - if it's too deep I don't know. I've spoken to AJ and will take it to him after Christmas
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    And there's no G groove? 
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145

    The E particularly has made a groove - if it's too deep I don't know. 
      compare it to the other strings :) 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • robertyroberty Frets: 10231
    Yeah if the buzz is on the open string and not the 1st fret then it's probably buzzing on the 1st fret. In order of probability, not enough neck relief, nut slot too deep, high fret

    Since it's a new issue and the weather is changing I suspect neck relief. Most of my guitars have needed a tweak recently
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  • roberty said:
    Yeah if the buzz is on the open string and not the 1st fret then it's probably buzzing on the 1st fret. In order of probability, not enough neck relief, nut slot too deep, high fret

    Since it's a new issue and the weather is changing I suspect neck relief. Most of my guitars have needed a tweak recently
    If I give it a slight anti-clockwise turn and it doesn't solve it - is it easy to put back? I don't want to go down a rabbit hole of keeping trying and making things worse
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  • roberty said:
    Yeah if the buzz is on the open string and not the 1st fret then it's probably buzzing on the 1st fret. In order of probability, not enough neck relief, nut slot too deep, high fret

    Since it's a new issue and the weather is changing I suspect neck relief. Most of my guitars have needed a tweak recently
    If I give it a slight anti-clockwise turn and it doesn't solve it - is it easy to put back? I don't want to go down a rabbit hole of keeping trying and making things worse
    yes, turn it clockwise back again the same amount
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    roberty said:
    Yeah if the buzz is on the open string and not the 1st fret then it's probably buzzing on the 1st fret. In order of probability, not enough neck relief, nut slot too deep, high fret > 
    ;
    bertie said:
    is it buzzing open and/or fretted ?  if so specific any frets ?

    Yes, it's on open and fretted
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 263
    edited December 2022
    I assumed the truss rod needed an allen key but it needs a 1/4" nut driver according to the Taylor website. Will this do the job?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Wrench-Luthier-Screwdriver-Guitars/dp/B07DFG59TP/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=taylor+truss+rod+wrench&qid=1669991740&sprefix=taylor+trus%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-5
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 5615
    edited December 2022
    If this is an electro-acoustic, hold the guitar up and shake it around.
    Has the buzzing stopped or lessened?
    If so, it's possibly the wires for the acoustic pickup vibrating on the underside of the soundboard at the treble side of the bridge.
    Hold the guitar up to your ear while playing the high strings and try to determine where the buzzing is coming from.
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 5615
    edited December 2022
    I assumed the truss rod needed an allen key but it needs a 1/4" nut driver according to the Taylor website. Will this do the job?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Wrench-Luthier-Screwdriver-Guitars/dp/B07DFG59TP/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=taylor+truss+rod+wrench&qid=1669991740&sprefix=taylor+trus%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-5
    That link resolves to a Musiclily 7mm box spanner, not a 1/4" one.  0.25 inches × 25.4 = 6.35mm, so a 7mm spanner made cheaply to poor tolerances is likely to slip and round off the corners of a 1/4" nut.  It might grip well enough to use, but personally i would be looking for one that is properly described as being 1/4" or 6.35mm, not a 7mm purporting to be for a 1/4" nut.  Although not described as a 1/4" socket wrench, the 6.35mm ones being sold here are intended to be used as 1/4" ones:
    https://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_042.htm
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