Buzzing on top E & G

lincolnblue · December 2022

BillDL said:

lincolnblue said:

I assumed the truss rod needed an allen key but it needs a 1/4" nut driver according to the Taylor website. Will this do the job?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Wrench-Luthier-Screwdriver-Guitars/dp/B07DFG59TP/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=taylor+truss+rod+wrench&qid=1669991740&sprefix=taylor+trus%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-5

That link resolves to a Musiclily 7mm box spanner, not a 1/4" one. 0.25 inches × 25.4 = 6.35mm, so a 7mm spanner made cheaply to poor tolerances is likely to slip and round off the corners of a 1/4" nut. It might grip well enough to use, but personally i would be looking for one that is properly described as being 1/4" or 6.35mm, not a 7mm purporting to be for a 1/4" nut. Although not described as a 1/4" socket wrench, the 6.35mm ones being sold here are intended to be used as 1/4" ones:
https://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_042.htm

Ah strange as I thought I linked to this:
Futheda Guitar Truss Rod Wrench/Luthier Screwdriver for Taylor Guitars, Silver https://amzn.eu/d/1nMT2Tv

Shows as 1/4" nut driver

sev112 · December 2022

Been very humid these past couple of minths

viz · December 2022

I get buzzing on my B, E + E.

sorry.

BillDL · December 2022

sev112 said:

Been very humid these past couple of minths

That sounds like Gendarme Crabtree from 'Allo 'Allo

LastMantra · December 2022

lincolnblue said:

BillDL said:

lincolnblue said:

I assumed the truss rod needed an allen key but it needs a 1/4" nut driver according to the Taylor website. Will this do the job?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Wrench-Luthier-Screwdriver-Guitars/dp/B07DFG59TP/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=taylor+truss+rod+wrench&qid=1669991740&sprefix=taylor+trus%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-5

That link resolves to a Musiclily 7mm box spanner, not a 1/4" one. 0.25 inches × 25.4 = 6.35mm, so a 7mm spanner made cheaply to poor tolerances is likely to slip and round off the corners of a 1/4" nut. It might grip well enough to use, but personally i would be looking for one that is properly described as being 1/4" or 6.35mm, not a 7mm purporting to be for a 1/4" nut. Although not described as a 1/4" socket wrench, the 6.35mm ones being sold here are intended to be used as 1/4" ones:
https://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_042.htm

Ah strange as I thought I linked to this:
Futheda Guitar Truss Rod Wrench/Luthier Screwdriver for Taylor Guitars, Silver https://amzn.eu/d/1nMT2Tv

Shows as 1/4" nut driver

Deffo make sure it's a tight fit!

BillDL · December 2022

Yes, a Tight Fit

Soupman · December 2022

BillDL said:

Yes, a Tight Fit

Oh, Bill - As Gendarme Crabtree says,'Good moaning'...

lincolnblue · December 2022

So this evening I took the plunge (feels it to me!) and adjusted the truss rod. I turned it about 8th turn (as close as I could) anti-clockwise. Initially I think there may still be a little buzz but I think it's quite a bit better. I'll leave it now until tomorrow and see how it settles. If it hasn't made a big enough difference, do I adjust more or leave it? I don't want to make things worse. Would some lubricant in the nut make any difference? I've heard using something like chapstick is worth a try?

GavRichList · December 2022

lincolnblue said:

So this evening I took the plunge (feels it to me!) and adjusted the truss rod. I turned it about 8th turn (as close as I could) anti-clockwise. Initially I think there may still be a little buzz but I think it's quite a bit better. I'll leave it now until tomorrow and see how it settles. If it hasn't made a big enough difference, do I adjust more or leave it? I don't want to make things worse. Would some lubricant in the nut make any difference? I've heard using something like chapstick is worth a try?

if what you've done has improved things, then yes, just turn a bit more. Dont be worried about doing it - its a function of the guitar and as long as you're not an idiot with it, it wont damage your guitar.

lincolnblue · December 2022

GavRichList said:

lincolnblue said:

So this evening I took the plunge (feels it to me!) and adjusted the truss rod. I turned it about 8th turn (as close as I could) anti-clockwise. Initially I think there may still be a little buzz but I think it's quite a bit better. I'll leave it now until tomorrow and see how it settles. If it hasn't made a big enough difference, do I adjust more or leave it? I don't want to make things worse. Would some lubricant in the nut make any difference? I've heard using something like chapstick is worth a try?

if what you've done has improved things, then yes, just turn a bit more. Dont be worried about doing it - its a function of the guitar and as long as you're not an idiot with it, it wont damage your guitar.

Thanks. If I turn it more will it just increase the action overall? I don't want to go crazy and will take it for a setup after Christmas but could do with it for a Carol service on Sunday

GavRichList · December 2022

lincolnblue said:

GavRichList said:

lincolnblue said:

So this evening I took the plunge (feels it to me!) and adjusted the truss rod. I turned it about 8th turn (as close as I could) anti-clockwise. Initially I think there may still be a little buzz but I think it's quite a bit better. I'll leave it now until tomorrow and see how it settles. If it hasn't made a big enough difference, do I adjust more or leave it? I don't want to make things worse. Would some lubricant in the nut make any difference? I've heard using something like chapstick is worth a try?

if what you've done has improved things, then yes, just turn a bit more. Dont be worried about doing it - its a function of the guitar and as long as you're not an idiot with it, it wont damage your guitar.

Thanks. If I turn it more will it just increase the action overall? I don't want to go crazy and will take it for a setup after Christmas but could do with it for a Carol service on Sunday

Not really, but also yes… a bit. You’re essentially moving the middle of the neck away from the strings by giving it more relief. An overly tightened truss creates a hump which leads to fretting out, buzz etc etc. let’s assume the bridge and nut height are both good, (and you said this has developed rather than always been there) it’s probable as others have said that the changing in temp of late just means you need to give it a little more relief. I’ve done minor tweaks on 3 of my guitars in the last week or two, and I bet a lot of people have.

lincolnblue · December 2022

Thanks @GavRichList ;
I've never really done truss rod adjustments before so really appreciate you're and everyone's input. I'll give it a slight tweak tomorrow

GavRichList · December 2022

lincolnblue said:

Thanks @GavRichList ;
I've never really done truss rod adjustments before so really appreciate you're and everyone's input. I'll give it a slight tweak tomorrow

Remember you’re only adjusting one of the possible variables - it’s not going to bugger everything else up. What can be done (within reason) can be undone.

BillDL · December 2022

@lincolnblue ; Adjusting the truss rod should never be adjusted as the primary means to set the action. It is intended for adjusting the amount of bow in the neck (relief). Changing the relief DOES have an affect on the action, but the action should be set at the bridge AFTER you set the optimum amount of relief in the neck for the type of guitar, gauge of strings, playing style. Occasionally on some guitars you might set the relief to a given measurement, or by eye, or by comparison with another guitar that plays well, but when you then set the action using the saddles/bridge it isn't quite right and you end up having to alternate between the two doing tiny adjustments until it plays perfectly. That type of juggling comes with experience and confidence.

A truss rod works because it fits into a slot in the neck in a curve, or is made from strips of curved metal fixed at each end. When the nut is tightened the rod tries to straighten out, but because it is enclosed tightly in the neck it pushes up the middle of the neck against the string tension and straightens the natural curve out of the neck. You need to be aware that some guitars have a "dual" / "two-way" "bi-flex" truss rod. When the adjuster is turned clockwise (looking at the adjuster straight on) it would remove the up-bow on a neck and make it straighter. Turning it anti-clockwise would take the tension back off the rod and allow the strings to pull the neck up into a bow again. So far that's standard, but with a two-way truss rod if you kept turning the adjuster anti-clockwise it goes past the neutral position where there is now no tension on the rod and it then begins to apply force downwards on the neck and thus forces more of an up-bow in the neck than could be caused by string tension alone on the neck. It is rare to ever need to do this feature, because most guitars have enough natural flex in the neck for the string tension alone to create sufficient up-bow even with the truss rod completely slackened, but you need to be aware of this because the adjuster nut doesn't always become obviously slack and spin loosely when you reach that neutral point. On most guitars, however, you will be able to feel when you have the rod slackened completely.

lincolnblue · January 2023

Update on this - I ended up not adjusting the truss rod any more, just due to really busy time (I know it doesn't take long) but after it's settled, the buzz has now gone completely. Thanks very much to you all for your help and advice.

BillDL · January 2023

That's good news. Funny things, guitars. Sometimes they make us want to pull our hair out. I'm now pretty bald on top.

bertie · January 2023

lincolnblue said:

Update on this - I ended up not adjusting the truss rod any more, just due to really busy time (I know it doesn't take long) but after it's settled, the buzz has now gone completely. Thanks very much to you all for your help and advice.

you should see me with fish and bread

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Buzzing on top E & G

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