Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Swapping my Grover Rotomatics - Acoustics Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Swapping my Grover Rotomatics

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BonzoBonzo Frets: 2
Greetings,

I'm thinking about swapping out the Grover Roto's on my 2018 Re-imagined Martin M-36 for something open backed like the Gotoh SXN510 (I think!).

I don't hate the Rotomatics, they work really well, it's just that I've always had a bit of a dislike to the look of them, with their big washers, on Martin headstocks.

I'd ideally like a straight 'no modifications' fit so that I can go back if I don't fancy them/change my mind.

Anyone done a similar swap and can confirm there's no extra mods required (save another small screw on the back) - and which tuners they replaced them with?

Cheers.
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  • TeyeplayerTeyeplayer Frets: 2811
    I’m pretty sure it was Grover’s that I removed on my Maton and swapped in Kluson Deluxes. Instantly made for a lighter headstock and an airier tone that had more warmth to it. Took an extra screw hole and swapped out bushings. Massive improvement all round.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    There’s a very slight difference in the screw hole position for the hole that gets re-used, but it’s probably within the range where you won’t have to plug and redrill - the screw might go in at a slight angle to start with, but will pull straight as you tighten it.

    You will still need conversion bushings though, so it won’t give the ‘correct’ vintage appearance.

    I thought about doing that on my Gibson Dove, but in the end I replaced the nickel kidney-bean Rotomatics with chrome keystone Rotomatics… it almost seemed a bit pointless until after I’d done it - the improvement is *huge* visually (the Dove is a 60s design not 50s, so chrome keystones are the *right* type - Gibson, pay attention!) and I dislike nickel anyway. But even more remarkably, the keystone keys are a lot lighter than the kidney beans, and it noticeably improved the sound of the guitar - MrsICBM heard it straight away too, it’s not just my imagination. (I reused the same strings, to make sure it wasn’t that!)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    I don't know if the screw holes would match up but Schaller  butterbean  openbacks are nice :) 
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    edited March 2022

    not a Martin headstock obvs.  but show's the vast improvement IMHO,  especially on a smaller Martin 




    so how does the M-series sound ?    personally Id got the other way, small body, deep - but interesting to hear what the M is like :)
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    edited March 2022
     When I see openback tuners, it's like I'm being taken back in time. To me, they add character  
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  • TheMadMickTheMadMick Frets: 213
    As with so many things, there are positives and negatives.

    With open gears you are more likely to get stuff in the works and wear, or in extremis, a jam

    Conversely, if they go wrong you should be able to see what it is without trying to disassemble that which was never intended to be disassembled.

    Ho Hum - such is life!
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    s'funny cos as a kid -  it seemed only cheapo guitars had open backs, so ANY form of closed back was seen as "top shagging"     and that mindset kind of stuck for quite a while...................now it seems the other way :) 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • GomersGomers Frets: 16
    Not sure I’d want to put open backs on a modern interpretation of a Martin which is where the M sits in my view.

    If it were mine, I’d be swapping those big Grovers out for the like-for-like replacement, Gotoh SG301 (both ovaloid and Grover style buttons available).

    Of course, none of that matters if you really don’t like the style.  However the SG301s are a lot less bulky and so much more superior to Grovers.
    2008 Martin 000-15
     2004 Yamaha LL-500
    1995 Yamaha LA-8
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  • CavemanGroggCavemanGrogg Frets: 2357
    Never been a fan of open back machine heads, things always get stuck between gears, and nowadays that tends to be my beard.
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  • TanninTannin Frets: 4394
    I’m pretty sure it was Grover’s that I removed on my Maton and swapped in Kluson Deluxes. Instantly made for a lighter headstock and an airier tone that had more warmth to it. 
    ICBM said:
    But even more remarkably, the keystone keys are a lot lighter than the kidney beans, and it noticeably improved the sound of the guitar - MrsICBM heard it straight away too, it’s not just my imagination.
    Very curious. I have a hard time getting my head around a change of tuners making a change to the sound, or at least a change that any normal person would notice. (I'm counting Mrs ICBM as a normal person here.) 

    Yes @Teyeplayer Grovers are the standard Maton tuner fitted to all models. 

    Like others here, I well remember seeing closed-back tuners as something new and rather posh. I've come to just expect them as routine these days and don't quite get the open-back love you see around. That said, I don't pay much attention to the back of headstocks: thinking about it just now I was reasonably confident that my lot are all closed back except the Guild - but I actually had to go and look to be sure.

    But to contradict myself, the look of tuners needs to match the guitar. The soft curves of the headstock in Bertie's picture positively demand a curvy, classic-style tuner (open-back or closed-back, doesn't matter). The treble-side tuners on it look awful - but they would be fine on something with a more angular, modern vibe. 

    The view from the front of the guitar matters more to me. From that point of view, closed-back vs open-back is a non-issue, but the shape and colour of the pegs needs to suite the shapes and the timbers.

    (Still scratching my head over the reports of changed sound.)

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    Tannin said:

    Very curious. I have a hard time getting my head around a change of tuners making a change to the sound, or at least a change that any normal person would notice. (I'm counting Mrs ICBM as a normal person here.) 

    Like others here, I well remember seeing closed-back tuners as something new and rather posh. I've come to just expect them as routine these days and don't quite get the open-back love you see around. That said, I don't pay much attention to the back of headstocks: thinking about it just now I was reasonably confident that my lot are all closed back except the Guild - but I actually had to go and look to be sure.

    But to contradict myself, the look of tuners needs to match the guitar. The soft curves of the headstock in Bertie's picture positively demand a curvy, classic-style tuner (open-back or closed-back, doesn't matter). The treble-side tuners on it look awful - but they would be fine on something with a more angular, modern vibe. 

    The view from the front of the guitar matters more to me. From that point of view, closed-back vs open-back is a non-issue, but the shape and colour of the pegs needs to suite the shapes and the timbers.

    (Still scratching my head over the reports of changed sound.)
    I’m certain it’s because the mass of the headstock changes the resonance of the neck, which is a very important factor in the sound of a guitar.

    The Grover kidney-bean keys are *really* heavy - the heaviest of any tuners I know of.

    My experience in general is that more mass at the headstock gives a deeper and more scooped sound, less mass gives more midrange - that’s definitely the difference I heard.

    MrsICBM is *reasonably* normal, but does have a lot of experience of me asking her to listen carefully to sounds ;).

    I also completely agree about the look - and the feel of the keys - the main reason I changed them is because the nickel kidney-beans were just clunky and wrong, whereas the chrome keystones are perfect (in particular they match the shape of the headstock inlay). The tone change was a bonus, although I did expect it.

    I’m also not really a fan of open-gear tuners, although they’re OK on vintage guitars which came with them. I generally like modern ones, but they don’t look right on the guitar above - the angular metal keys don’t look right on any older guitar design, and they never did even when people were fitting Schaller M6s to them in the 1970s either…

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • TanninTannin Frets: 4394
    Interesting!

    So, to test this theory, I could (with suitable care) attach (say) a metal G clamp from my workshop to the head of a guitar and listen to the tone change - maybe turn my Adi and 'hawg Guild into something more akin to a rosewood OM-28! I can't wait to try it.  (Also, to try the brass bridge pins which arrived the other day and are still in the packet.)

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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 16332
    ^ This was pretty much the reasoning behind the "Fathead" devices sold in the 1970's.

    Article with pics here  https://www.guitarscanada.com/threads/have-you-ever-heard-of-fathead-for-peg-head.267491/

    I'd bet there's more than one person here on TFB that will have one in a parts drawer  ;)
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