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Comments
I thought it was quite interesting.
I would have gone for a full re-fret and re-radius of the board .... and repaired the slots and divots before putting new frets in. probably would have looked at the neck angle a bit too. Its doubtful the neck angle is optimal for modern playability and its relatively easy to correct on these.
Obviously if its just a slide guitar then a lot of that can be skipped, which is the choice i made on my 1930's regal resonator
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And, yes, I'm fairly sure he could have found someone to repair it. My sister has a 1930s dolly's tea set (bear with) that belonged to my mother and we have talked about applying to the repair shop for that. The financial value of it isn't worth enough to pay someone to restore it but it would be nice and we can attach a sob story to it and get our faces on the telly.
But just nice to see something relatively out of the ordinary.
I have suggested:
Full refret
Re radius of board
repair of fretboard divots
potential neck reset
All these are about achieving modern standards of playability on an old guitar
The luthier on the program said the board had shrunk and the frets had popped up because of it. in other words, the board has flattened out. The quick fix is to work with the shrunken flat radius, you need to push the existing frets flat and replace any worn ones. I assume this is what was done. The best repair for playability is to re-radius the board and re-fret, even though you may lose lose originality and some playing wear.
A neck reset would not be restoration at all on this.. it likely never had a good neck angle for playability. but it would allow the use of a higher bridge whilst still keeping a relatively low action. This would massively increase the performance of the guitar, both playability and tone.
i did not like seeing chips either side of the new frets. They do happen when pulling frets on old boards, but they can be resolved with no loss of history. To me it showed a lack of care and sensitivity on a very valuable vintage guitar
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