UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45
Advice please re Acoustic Guitar strings please.
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I have a superb L’arrivee L05 fitted with a K&K.
I always use D’addario phosphor bronze and often alternate between 12s and 13s.
However I think partly because I have been playing my tele a lot- strung with 10’s I seem to be favouring 12s lately.
I am also slightly unhappy with the sound - too strident and bright when new and dull when played in.
I want something more mellow/full but not dull sounding.
Many many years ago on a different acoustic I seem to recall using La Bella silk and steel strings which seemed to satisfy my mellow but not dull requirement.
Does anyone have any recent experience or recommendations of current strings which may just keep me happy?
Thanks in anticipation.
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TLDR version: Newtone</end thread>
TLDR version: Newtone</end thread>
What I was trying to say was it’s a long thread that asked the same question and the consensus was to go for Newtones. The </end thread> was an attempt to humorously say no more discussion needed
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/112616/acoustic-strings-a-journey
”I am also slightly unhappy with the sound - too strident and bright when new and dull when played in.
I want something more mellow/full but not dull sounding.”
I found that moving from d’Addarios to Newtone gave me exactly that a nice mellow sound and long lasting which I suppose addresses the not dull when played in part.
Thanks for your help.
My L'Arrivee L-01 (like yours, but much plainer to look at) sounds great with Elixir Nanoweb 80/20s. Balanced tone, nice volume. Not so brash when first fitted.
My Brook Taw sounds best with Elixir Polyweb 80/20s (the Nanowebs are too bright for me on this guitar).
On both those guitars I use a set of 11s. There's no significant difference in tone, volume or tuning stability over 12's but my fingertips get less wear and I can bend notes a little further if I want to. I use 10's on all my electrics, whatever the scale length.
My Martin 0-16 NY parlour guitar has Martin Silk'n'Steels and I like them on that over standard strings. They're quite low tension in comparison to standard strings. Not sure I'd want them on a bigger-bodied guitar but I've ne@
I also liked Newtones, but they're often out of stock when I want to buy strings.
This is why I suggest you can only really tell by trying these things on your own kit with your own ears. Trust that above all else.
Example: I fitted a set of the "consensus best brand" strings to my Angel a few weeks back, and the result could only be described as awful. It wasn't just a sound I did not like, I'd bet good money that nineteen guitarists out of twenty would hate it too. From that, am I justified in concluding that the brand of strings is no good? Certainly not! The only conclusion I can safely draw is that the particular combination of gauge, type, brand, and alloy doesn't work on the particular guitar. (I'll order the same ones again sometime; I'm fairly confident that they would work very well on my Maton dreadnought - but as always, I won't know for sure until I try.)
Do you just close your eyes and try stuff at random then? No, there are still general rules that can guide you. It is a big help to know where you are starting from: D'Addario EJ16s. My guess is that you would find silk and steel too mellow, but try a set to be sure. When you say "too strident and bright when new", do you mean for the first hour? First day? Or first week?
Different string materials produce a hierarchy of brightness. From most bright to least bright:
aluminium bronze (very bright)
brass (also incorrectly called 80/20 "bronze")
phosphor bronze
Monel
nickel bronze (very dark)
There are also odd-bod strings which are harder to classify in the hierarchy: silk and steel, 85/15 alloy, flatwounds, probably some others I can't think of. And different manufacturers do the same things in different ways; for example, a rough-surfaced string, all else being equal, will sound brighter than a smooth one. Wear characteristics vary too. Most notably, brass strings (which are very bright when new and through the mid-period of their lifespan) go very soft and mild when they get well-worn. More's remarks notwithstanding, brass strings are significantly brighter than phosphor bronze right through their normal playing life - when fresh on they can be very shouty indeed. It is only when they go dead (typically after more than a month of use) that they lose all the brightness they are renowned for.
So there are complexities and contradictions, nevertheless in broad if you want a brighter sound, move one step up the hierarchy. If you want a darker sound, move down a step. The trouble here though Jim is that you want both brighter and darker!
Something I would certainly consider trying is Monel or nickel bronze.
https://newtonestrings.com/do-not-cut-newtone-strings/
Luckily, on the standard posts on almost all acoustic guitars, it isn't an issue if you fit the strings correctly - whichever of the two alternative best methods you - since you always put the string through the post, bend it, wind on and tune up before you cut off the loose end. If you don't you're doing it wrong anyway!
The real problem is with Fender-style split-post/hole down the middle tuners, which a very few acoustics have too. (And Floyd Rose bridges, I don't think you can use Newtones with those.)
So not one of these
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
...and if you do, then they stay the same for months and months.