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1. Set the hole parallel to the neck.
2. Pass the string through the hole from the far side (from the end of headstock towards the neck). Pull reasonably, but not completely, tight.
3. Bring the loose end up past the main part of the string, over the top of it, and under the string where it's on top of the roller.
4. Holding the loose end beyond the headstock so it can't slip, wind on enough tension to trap the end under the main part of the string. Then tune up.
5. Cut off the excess about half an inch beyond the roller when you're sure everything is stable and you're well on the way to the tuning settling down - they will continue to go flat for a *long* time.
(If you're unsure about possible slipping, leave cutting until you're really confident they're not. Sometimes the top E and B can be a bit slippery and refuse to lock tightly with just one pass under the main part of the string - if so, do two.)
If you want to be super fussy, the direction the strings wind onto the rollers will control whether they rub on the sides of the headstock slots. On the E strings, they need to wind *inwards* towards the centre of the head, so in stage 3 bring the loose end up on the *outer* side of the string, then over the top and back under so it's pointing outwards, then wind on so the wraps are on the inner side of the tie. On the other four strings, do the opposite so the loose ends point inwards and the wraps wind outwards.
When done, it looks like this... (well, apart from the thumb holding the A string out of the way so you can see properly, and the cheap blue kid's guitar ).
I have the screws you need, PM me your address - and preferably a pic of the ones you have so I can match the head shape and colour accurately.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
be very careful with carbon strings, I have damaged 2 classicals because of them, they are way slippier than normal strings
If you use them, use double or triple the windings at the bridge for the plain strings, and at the other end the only reliable method I know is to go through the peg, then twists the loose end many times around the string, then tighten the twisted pair so that it overlaps itself a few times
they are made from a different material
the surface of the unwound strings is very slippy, that's all
if it slides out at the bridge end, as the knot unravels, it whips into the soundboard and can remove a small chunk of wood, or just tear it up
Thanks for all the suggestions and a BIGThanks to ICBM (Legend) for sending some gold screws.