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I have gone unconventional for the neck join so will show and describe why
Gibson tenons, long or short, have 7 main facets .
1) base tenon
2) Bass side tenon
3)Treble side tenon
4) Bass Side fretboard
5) Treble side fretboard
6) End of tenon
7) heel/body join
A well made Gibson style join will have all of those fitted perfectly. Most sacrifice at least one, Gibson sacrifice a few for best aesthetic fit and to make fitting the complex join as easy as possible. Each facet sacrificed weakens the join.
6 and 7 are end grain to end grain joins, so should be considered non structural. You can ignore 6 all together if you want, a gap between the end of tenon and body doesn't affect anything. You can't ignore 7, even though it adds no strength you dont want to see gaps between heel and body.
Gibson famously sacrificed number 1 with the rocker tenon seen below.
They also are known to allow a lot of slop in 2 and 3 and correct with veneers during glue up...one reason to drop the long tenon was it makes it hard to hide this...you can see a gap on the treble side filled with a veneer here, also issues with the base of the tenon shown by how thing the end of the tenon has become
Now i don't want gaps or veneers in my neck joins.... I want a simple easy fit with maximum glue surface
So normally i go for a full width tenon. It has 4 facets to it, making it much simpler to cut, making it much simpler to avoid gaps - maximising glue surfaces
1) base of tenon
2) Bass side of tenon
3) Treble side of tenon
4) End of tenon (non structural)
Worth noting that almost every builder who isn't GIbson or claiming to make accurate replicas makes this choice. Its the PRS nek join for example. Also commonly seen on felines LP's around here. So whilst its totally possible to make a good version of the traditional join, there really isn't much point beyond vintage accuracy... and one or two other aesthetic choices
Here is a couple of mine with the full width tenon
you can see the binding on the treble side doesn't quite go to the 16th fret join like it does on the traditional design... but i have 3 massive glue faces and can reshape the heel in fun ways and its all a lot easier to do than the Gibson version
Onto this guitar. Its a hybrid of the two. I could have done my usual full width tenon, but i actually want everything to look really pretty in the cutaway area and show all the construction details ... so that means going a bit more traditional.
I decide to go with a 7/8 Tenon... or more precisely its like a full width on the base side and traditional one on the treble. This is actually the method used by a lot of far eastern factories for exactly the same reasons i am doing it... it looks right from the outside, but is an easier fit.
Here it is on a cheap kit
but they were very lazy and took a big notch out of the structural bit to make it even easier..
I'm getting to pics of mine....
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1) Base of tenon
2) Bass side of tenon
3) Treble side of tenon
4) treble side of fretboard/neck extension
5) end of tenon
6) heel/body join
i need a neck extension under the fretboard side as the neck needs to be raised from the body for correct neck angle geometry
Body is slotted like this
neck slots in
and i just have a little bit more fitting to do to close the gap between body and heel..neck is set at a 3 degree angle
also here is a gut shot.... the back edge of the rims and kerfing still needs to be levelled off to fit the back, then I get my last chance to tidy all this up before i fit the back.
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Of course the correct choice would be a Bigsby!
If anyone had an original one I would use it. I also had a quick look for other old ones as I quite like the thin bent metal ones used on a lot of quirky vintage guitars. In fact I keep eyeing up the one on my old Framus style archtop
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I do think it looks much better too - the three little diamonds hint at matching the polepieces of the pickup.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I'm going lightweight on neck and tuners so whilst it may be neck heavy I dont expect balance to be an issue... Certainly seems okay so far
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A pic of Les and Mary with the 3 diamond tailpiece
And a few early variations
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The neck is a friction fit so can be hung like this, although if it was a solid body it would not hold it... too tight is not good when you come to glueing
you may notice a headstock inlay, got a few bubble in the black superglue so its not done yet but these are some discs i has laser cut years ago.... i thought I had used them all but found a couple whilst sorting out
and a weight in
Neck is 1lb 5oz, body is 3lb 11oz... i think that is a good weight distribution for balance, and will likely be what it comes in at without hardware once finished.... got some wood to remove, finish to add etc, should even out
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