Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). Regular tuning changes causing strings to break - Acoustics Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Regular tuning changes causing strings to break

LestratcasterLestratcaster Frets: 1024
edited March 2019 in Acoustics
I've been asked to play an acoustic show for my mate's band, where they're doing an acoustic show with the set made up of stripped back arrangements of the full band songs of a forthcoming EP release.

Thing is I am using open tunings alot which involve retuning the thinnest 3 strings up and down constantly. In fact every single song (5 of them) in the set is in a different tuning.

At a jam the other night my top string snapped when tuning so I'm guessing it won't be long til one of the other break too. 

Have bought a few single strings in case but I'd rather try to avoid rather than cure. I think I need to turn tuning pegs slower, and try to arrange the set where I don't need to tune so many strings at once.

What type of string would be the more harder to break? Coated? Titanium?

Asides from having a separate guitar for each song any alternatives?
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    Speed of tuning makes no difference. The only way to stop it - or at least reduce the risk - is to make sure the strings are wound very neatly onto the posts and the 'take off point' is not on the edge of the string hole.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • I do 3 winds around and do the wrap lock thing or whatever its called, this "take off point" might be contributing to the breaking though.
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  • m_cm_c Frets: 1128
    Sounds like the bigger problem will be metal fatigue, and string type won't really make much difference (unless you want to go classical with nylon!). Titanium may help as it is more fatigue resistant, but I'm not sure if it'll make much difference if being continually bent/straightened.

    As @ICBM says, ensuring the string is neatly wound with no kinks will help, but ultimately it'll still fatigue and snap.

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  • This is how they're wound currently:




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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    edited March 2019
    I do 3 winds around and do the wrap lock thing or whatever its called, this "take off point" might be contributing to the breaking though.
    Three winds should bring the take-off point to below the string hole, but if it's still on the edge you will have to adjust the length of string wrapped on the post slightly, which can be a nuisance to get right...

    Are you winding the string round the post *before* putting it through the hole? If so don't do that, it twists the string and makes it more likely to break. Put the string through the hole and lock-wrap it first, *then* wind onto the post.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • ICBM said:
    I do 3 winds around and do the wrap lock thing or whatever its called, this "take off point" might be contributing to the breaking though.
    Three winds should bring the take-off point to below the string hole, but if it's still on the edge you will have to adjust the length of string wrapped on the post slightly, which can be a nuisance to get right...

    Are you winding the string round the post *before* putting it through the hole? If so don't do that, it twists the string and makes it more likely to break. Put the string through the hole and lock-wrap it first, *then* wind onto the post.
    Yeah I do, to rate a lock but as you say it'll twist the string.

    So should I be doing it like this guy at around 3.30?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xxeRFEP1Y4&ab_channel=Fender
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    Personally, I would not cut the string first. I would lock-wrap the loose end under the main part of the string on the first turn, then wind on about three turns - you'll have to get used to knowing how much slack to leave to achieve that - then wind on with the key.

    For my own guitars I lock-wrap it and leave the minimum possible winding on the post, but that might not be the best if you're retuning a lot and you want more windings.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • BahHumbugBahHumbug Frets: 328
    edited March 2019
    I found that when I was practicing loads of songs in different modal tunings, that it was inevitable that a string would go, usually the G, and usually when being slackened off.  I’ve always wound the strings neatly round the posts, so I decided it must be fatigue on that portion of string that is being straightened and bent as you change tunings.
    That said, a ew set of strings will still put up with this treatment for quite a few tuning changes, so my s9lution has been to put new strings on before a gig, especially if I think the old strings have already gone through lots of tuning changes.
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  • I will restring on the day of the show with a brand new set, and it should last me through the set. Its just there's another 2 weeks or so before with practicing, and if we're doing all 5 songs there'll be constant tuning changing.
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  • ArchtopDaveArchtopDave Frets: 1230
    Do it the Jackson Browne way. Saw him do a solo acoustic show, where he had 14 Acoustics on stands behind him on stage.
    He explained that this wasn't ostentatious, but simply that they were all tuned differently. I seem to remember he actually played 5 or 6 of them during the gig.
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  • Do it the Jackson Browne way. Saw him do a solo acoustic show, where he had 14 Acoustics on stands behind him on stage.
    He explained that this wasn't ostentatious, but simply that they were all tuned differently. I seem to remember he actually played 5 or 6 of them during the gig.
    Ha I wish I had even 3 acoustic guitars. I got 2 at the moment and I'm having to lend one of them to the other guitarist!
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 29588

    What type of string would be the more harder to break? Coated? Titanium?
    Don't go coated, one of the downsides of Elixirs IME is that they break pretty easily when disturbed such as slackening them to lift a scratchplate.

    I wonder if they go through some kind of heat process during manufacture, because although I never break any in normal use the plain strings are definitely more brittle than conventional strings.
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  • Well to aid tuning changes during the set one of my guitar students is kindly lending me 2 electro-acoustics to help with the different tunings. Means I will have 3 guitars for 4 different tunings now, as we are scrapping another song so 2 can stay in the same tuning.

    Still doesn't solve my issue of rehearsing the songs in one sitting and not breaking any strings!
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  • ToneControlToneControl Frets: 11438
    Where do they snap?
    At the Nut? the bridge? If either of those, make sure the edge is not too sharp

    Either way, what gauge are you using and what are you tuning to? Maybe a lighter gauge for the top string might reduce breakages?

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  • stickersticker Frets: 868
    May I ask what tunings you are using ?
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  • LestratcasterLestratcaster Frets: 1024
    edited March 2019
    I am using the D'addario Phosphor Bronze 11-52's currently, but for the set I will put a set of Elixir 80/20 Bronze on there, same gauge, or possible 12-53's.

    I am using 4 different tunings (low to high)

    B F# B E G# C# (1 song)

    B F# B E B E (2 songs)

    B F# B E B D (1 song)

    B F# B D# A# D# (1 song)

    If we play a 6th song (as we ain't decided if the arrangement will work yet) it'll be in B F# B E F# B.

    Also the guitar flits between drop b variations and standard tuning as I use the acoustic for teaching too.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    It will be interesting to see how successful the Elixirs are. I'm pretty sure I've had more breakages with them when slackening strings than any other make.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • sev112sev112 Frets: 2457
    Wow they are freaky tunings - are you using a baritone or something like that?
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  • Where do they snap?
    At the Nut? the bridge? If either of those, make sure the edge is not too sharp

    Either way, what gauge are you using and what are you tuning to? Maybe a lighter gauge for the top string might reduce breakages?

    They're breaking at the tuning peg at the post.
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  • sev112 said:
    Wow they are freaky tunings - are you using a baritone or something like that?
    Yeah they utilise the open strings to give a more open ringing sound, with the other guitarists it sounds really good.

    And no its just a Takamine electro acoustic.
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 29588
    ICBM said:
    It will be interesting to see how successful the Elixirs are. I'm pretty sure I've had more breakages with them when slackening strings than any other make.
    Yep, see my post above. 
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  • earwighoneyearwighoney Frets: 3380
    I use a lot of different open tunings and generally I have no problems tuning up and down but for a live set, I'd be very reluctant to tune the high strings up, always preferring to tune down. 

    How well your nut and bridge is cut will contribute as well.  I myself use a lead pencil to line the slots of the nut as well. 

    In terms of how I would approach the set list would be as follows

    1st - B F# B E B E
    2nd - 
    B F# B E B D
    3rd - 
    B F# B E G# C#
    4th - 
    B F# B D# A# D#

    I myself find the 4th/G to be the string most prone to breaking, so that is why I left that one for last. 
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  • I use a lot of different open tunings and generally I have no problems tuning up and down but for a live set, I'd be very reluctant to tune the high strings up, always preferring to tune down. 

    How well your nut and bridge is cut will contribute as well.  I myself use a lead pencil to line the slots of the nut as well. 

    In terms of how I would approach the set list would be as follows

    1st - B F# B E B E
    2nd - B F# B E B D
    3rd - B F# B E G# C#
    4th - B F# B D# A# D#

    I myself find the 4th/G to be the string most prone to breaking, so that is why I left that one for last. 
    The actual set won't be an issue as I will have 3 guitars on me that day, its just the rehearsing as I only have 1. The highest pitch will be B and E which on the thinnest 2 strings will be the same as standard so they won't go any higher.

    As far as the order goes yes that's my plan, 2 songs are in the 1st tuning so they go back-to-back. The one with 3 strings to be tuned will go last obviously, and will be on a different guitar.
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  • idiotwindowidiotwindow Frets: 1204
    I went through a period where my B string would break consistently at the tuning peg after only a few retunes (usually to open D and back to standard). I had been stringing my guitar using the "locking" method which I think introduces a potential weakness in the string at the peg. Since changing to the simple "poke through the hole and start winding" method (and cutting the string before winding) I have found that my strings no longer break, even after many tunings.
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  • idiotwindowidiotwindow Frets: 1204
    Incidentally, I don't think I've ever tuned my bass strings that low. Are you using a special gauge or are they just a bit floppy?
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  • I'm just using 11-52's which just about hold up in drop b variation tunings. Don't forget it goes between that and standard tuning too.
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