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Capo wise I use the Jim Dunlop trigger one, clamps straight on no bs with clips or things to wind. Holds in tune well too so less time spent retuning when you've put it on.
This thread has quite a lot of thoughts on strings, worth a read
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/112616/acoustic-strings-a-journey#latest
Feedback can be found here http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/908933#Comment_908933
For years on my budget Takamine I've used (and still do) Martin Phosphor Bronze. They suit it well, and last OK. Stuck a set on my Furch when the supplied strings died, and they sounded awful, so that now gets Elixir Nanowebs.
For capos I like the trigger style ones: Kyser, Jum Dunlop etc. I got a G7 because everyone raves about them, but found it no quicker to use, and also just a teeny-tiny bit too short on the nose to be confident of accurately covering the whole fingerboard in a hurry. But it's great on electrics with a slightly narrower fretboard.
Kyser.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
D'Addarios PB 11-52.'s
Had many different capos over the years, never been truly happy with any of them, so will check out the Planet Waves/NS
I use Shubbs mostly, but the Tri-Action is adjustable AND quick-flippable, at the cost of sticking out at the back quite a bit.
Actually I liked the old Planet Waves Dual-Action (the one with the little folding dog-leg mechanism) slightly better, but you can't find them anymore.
As for capos, I like Shubb for acoustic, and G7th for electric
Some capos press the strings down too much, and knock the tuning out much more than other capos,
aim to try a capo, with a decent tuner in hand before you buy
Gauge makes a big difference - and not always in a predictable way. Heavier strings make some guitars louder and fuller but can make other guitars clam up through restricting top movement ( somebody will be along to correct me on my technical analysis but that's the gist of it).
So a load of variable at play. Just buy some and try them. Many strings are jangly for the first few days, so whatever you try give them time to settle before judging.
I have 4 acoustics - on two I am currently using Martin Phosphor bronze SP 13s, on one I am using Martin Retro 13s and one has Ernie Ball Earthwood PB 13s.
On capos - if you want the Rolls Royce of capos then for half a Strymon you can get an Elliott (thanks @Lewy for that tip).
But it is a very personal thing .
Part of it is fitting the capo in the right place - right along the back edge of the fret crown, so it can't pull the strings down and sharp.
So for me it's much better to have a capo which is sprung and self-adjusting, than one which is rigid and needs to be set to just the right tension like a Shubb or G7.
This is also a very personal thing - there's really no right answer.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I like the G7th performance II capos but not the G7th Nashville, which pulls my Martin sharp regardless of positioning. With the performance I find it dead easy to get the tension right, though I’m not a heavy capo user.