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Get the neck as near to straight as you can, then you can have a look at action and intonation. If you have a small set of files you can look into cutting a custom saddle with ideal intonation. Here's a bone saddle I cut from a blank:
https://i.imgur.com/Z738QJM.jpg
You start after setting the height and intonate using a length of old plain string for the string to rest on, mark the ideal spot and later shape away, sand and polish.
Older acoustics may have a hump in the upper frets, if its too extreme then levelling alone wont fix it.
As Winny_Pooh said, getting the bridge right is a lot more hassle, and you have far less opportunity to try going too low and then back up again if it's wrong which you can do easily on an electric, so it's best to take your time even if it means having the saddle out more than once.
I also compensate the top edge of the saddle usually, but I don't measure it - I simply cut two straight ridges, one running from front to back under the E and B strings, and the other from front to back under the other four. It's very rare that this isn't dead on.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
@ICBM... when you say 'you want a higher action than you would on an electric'... is this at the nut... at the saddle... or at both the nut and the saddle?
Thanks
Regarding the nut, if an F barre is uncomfortable, I would want to lower it. There are lots of Youtube videos that will walk you through an acoustic set up.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson