UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45
I'm looking to replace my old acoustic (a 1980 Fender F-35), with something that actually plays well (it sounds wonderful, but I like my fingers). Being mainly an electric player, I've always used strings from the lighter end - which helps with the high action on the thing, the Ernie Ball Earthwood Rock & Blues:
https://cdn.ernieball.com/website/images/products/image_front/large/P02008.pngThese are 10-52 but importantly have a plain third/G string, rather than the ubiquitous wound third in acoustic sets. This means I can bend a G!
The challenge of playing the Fender at the dusty end means the intonation difference doesn't really bring itself up, but I wonder if it will with a modern, well playing acoustic, with their compensated saddles?
I was pleasantly taken by Taylor Academy yesterday, it sounds great and is easy to play, but this nag is in the back of my mind; that the compensated saddle will mean a plain third will be out of tune noticably at the higher end of the neck - will it?
Are there alternately shaped bridge saddles I can swap?
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saddle compensation is 'built-in' for (mainly) the core wire of which the 'E & B' are - as they have no winding.
the thinner the (core) wire the less compensation is required. Thats why acoustic saddles are shaped to give the wound 'G' around the same scale length as the 'E' 1st string - because the core wire is depending on the brand - as thin or thinner.
Conversely as u'll know the unwound 'G' on an electric gets more compensation (is further back) than the E & B.
A: get the guitar that U like the most and have a saddle made for u'r gauge of strings.
I make my own for the gauge I've settled on to accommodate my lowish turnings.
If you get the Taylor, leave its stock bridge in tact. This will preserve your warranty.
Buy a blank bridge saddle. Work it down to size for height. Shape the top edge to shift the G string's break off point.