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look up ferromagnetic (or ferrimagnetic). These include iron, nickel, cobalt, some alloys of rare-earth metals.
bronze / brass is not ferromagnetic so the steel core is all that is being 'picked up' by the MP - hence the reduced 'signal'.
I did wonder if they would be better on something like a Gibson J-160E where the pickup is essentially an electric guitar pickup (it's actually a P90, mounted under the top with raised polepieces)... but even though I'd quite like one it seemed a bit excessive to buy an expensive guitar just to try a set of strings .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
It works fine. The wound strings are slightly louder than they would be if they were bronzes, and possibly very slightly louder than the plain strings - but only very slightly, if anything they might be a better balance with the plain strings, I always find the plains slightly too strident compared to the wound normally.
But I don't like the tone really - it's significantly more 'electric guitarry'. I do quite like that sometimes, especially if I'm committing heresy and distorting my acoustic , but for actually sounding like an acoustic it's less good.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I did use Newtone for a bit, but I had 3 sets with a duff D string where the intonation was way off. Going from other people's comments I think that's quite rare, and they were probably all from one bad batch, but it was enough to put me off of them. D'Addario are always consistent.
I recently tried a set of the D'Addario Nickel Bronze that they were pushing at the Birmingham guitar show. They were horrible - really tinny, and completely lacking bass. I did wonder if it was the fizziness you get with new strings but they were still like that after several hours of playing, long after PB would have mellowed out to sound good. Normally I try to get maximum life out of strings but I actually took these off the guitar and put PB back on. I use 11s so maybe they would be better in a higher gauge where you might get a bit more low end.
Instant first impressions are that they sound fantastic - but not 'new'! They have none of the trashy zing that brand-new strings usually do, which is both pleasing (for me - I hate very new strings) and a bit disconcerting, since they sound like they're played-in already. If they stay like this and don't dull after a while it will be ideal. They feel good - not noticeably lower tension, in fact strangely they felt *tighter* when stretching them, but more flexible and resonant when actually playing, which is again like old strings but also slightly odd on new ones. It's almost as if they have been pre-stretched or something…
I also have a set of nickel electric 11s to try, but my electric doesn't need restringing at the moment so that will have to wait. I will follow this up in a while once I'm past the time that new strings would normally have dulled down a bit.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I use D'Addarios, Ernie Balls and Rotosounds. I have used Dunlop, Dean Markley, DR and several others. They're all fine. I have also used some cheap outsourced generic chinese things that were branded by some company that endorsed my band for a short while and sent me a load of sets. They felt shit but I kept using them for a while on a couple of guitars out of curiosity and they lasted for quite a while. I gave them away in the endand went back to using whatever majjor brand that was convenient at the time.
I had a slight loyalty toward EB for a few years but that was because they were the only major brand that did a 11-54 set.
I think this is the best my guitar has sounded, ever.
Not only that, there is something in the 'lower tension' thing, even though it doesn't really feel like it at first - but my fingertips aren't even slightly sore from playing, and they usually would be when I play that much on an acoustic with 12s and a medium action, especially after being away on holiday.
Very pleased. I'm pretty sure they're better than my previous favourites, DR Rare. Unless something drastic happens and they die quickly I think I will be getting more.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
The guitar is not locked away in a case either, it's kept on a wall hanger in my front room and played every few days.
Remarkable, and I will definitely be getting more of these.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Newts publish their PB alloy composition on their site and from what I've seen from other manufacturers it seems to be superior and to my ears the proof is inthe sound.
Longevity is a tricky one, generally from my experience strings of better quality materials tend to 'die' more quickly - IF you have acidic / oily sweat. Typical $5 a set (USA) strings I'd say are formulated to give a longer life span (but not to much) as this is important to a majority of typical buyers.
Not trying to outdo you but I get about a year from my strings - only play with clean hands and wipe them down before and after playing. OK I'll admit it, when gigging in the past I'd sneak of to the toilet and wash my hands - and - thoroughly dry 'em befoe playing. There's a particular feel you get when playing like that - kinda effortless.
Interesting info about the bronze composition. This will sound weird, but one thing I have noticed with the Newtones is that they *smell* different . Yes I'm serious… I don't actually sniff my strings, but I have noticed that after playing a guitar, there's usually a slight 'metallic' smell on my fingers - the smell from the Newtones is noticeably different.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I did deep research on this topic a few years ago - some info,
I've pieced it together hope some of it is helpful.
heres the formula of the PB alloy Newtone use -
“We always try to ensure that the materials we use are the finest available. Our phosphor bronze is of the Cu92 Sn8 composition, a 92% copper to 8% tin ratio as used extensively in the manufacture of cymbals. The steel we use for our plain strings and cores is high tensile tin plated, the tin being sufficient to resist corrosion under normal circumstances." - M. Newton”
and what I’d consider a ‘quality’ string manufacturer -
“Discussing TI Spectrum Bronze recently here I came upon a piece of information that stated TI don’t use Zinc in they're (winding) alloy. The same goes for Newtone who actually give their formula for the PB alloy they use “Our phosphor bronze is of the Cu92 Sn8 composition, a 92% copper to 8% tin”,
again no Zink.”
It seems TI’s ‘+ Newtone + DR etc choice from the source music wire manufacturers use a formulation made for pianos which is - more musical BUT because piano strings art touched it is somewhat more susceptible to finger excretions.
Maybe why some string manufacturers don’t use these particular bronze alloys and why BIG manufacturers don’t offer a ‘higher Quality’ line.
To state the obvious - string manufacturers get their wire components from ‘Music Wire’ manufacturers - I’ve seen their sites and low and behold theres a wide verity of ‘qualities’ and formulations on offer.
Like I said longevity figures large with yer average player so they’ve created the very average product - to sell, the key word is ‘Zinc’
And their PB’s
92/8 Phosphor Bronze – The 92/8 is a ratio represents a blend of 92% copper and 8% tin phosphide in the wrap wire. The 8% actually breakdown to a 7% tin and 1% phosphor composition. The tin phosphide helps preserve the tonal range over time.
No Zinc
E.G. D’Addario uses in their 80/20 Bronze – Composed of 80% copper and 20% zinc, commonly referred to as brass.
so yeah they may well ’smell’ different simply cause they’re made of different materials than the $5 set.
If ya like mellow then the TI Spectrum's have it in spades - partly due to the superior alloy and partly due to the process of adding a fine silk ’sleeve’ between the core and wraps wires.
It does work in ‘filtering’ out the ‘metallic’ edgy ring (overtones) of the metal to metal components.
I don't know if it is worth trying them again. @ICBM is it the Masterclass or Low Tension sets you are using?
Oddly enough I have had several D'Addarios that were faulty - same problem, wouldn't intonate properly. Definitely not the same batch since they were years apart, but they were all A strings!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
who repackage Newtone strings to sell as Eagle-Puretone (used to be called Eagle by Newtone), I’ve had orders from them before so just checked they were the same strings and they are.
link
http://www.eaglemusicshop.com/cat/acoustic-guitar-strings#category_id-213/applied_filters-f8/order-PRO/page_number-1/items_per_page-24
From the string manufacturers point of view the consistency of the component ‘wire’ is whats usually at fault.
Particularly the core wire and if it’s out - unevenly drawn by the music wire manufacturer - even by a few thou - then the finished string will vary in accuracy over it’s playable length.
In other words it’s not necessarily the string maker / winder who’s at fault but the supplier of their raw materials.
I’ve noted quite a few ‘complaints’ re intonation - over the pond with various string brands being accused and interestingly Martin guitars figure a lot !. One guy had a Marquis - read expensive model, that had intonation issues with one brand of string turned out to be the straight saddle (no compensation ’notched in) was not accurate enough for the high precision of the strings construction. Seems the straight saddle design was showing it’s age when confronted with modern manufacturing processes. Which made me wonder if CFM had updated it’s fretting calculations.
I only suspect stuff like this when someone asked when CFM changed they’re ’sharp cornered’ headstock to the rounded corner’d one - surely a cosmetic design change ? no - the jigs they used to shape the headstock had been used so much the sharp corners had worn away - over time and the no one at the factory had noticed !.
My band, Red For Dissent
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
My band, Red For Dissent
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Newtone Strings are some of the best for using 'alternate' tunings.