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I was in a similar(ish) position to you and was thinking about buying a 70s D28 or D18. It's been a few years since I looked but, from memory, the general consensus was that the 1970s was Martin's worst period.
I think if you want a 70s guitar you might be better off with Gibson (with the usual caveats of buying a Gibson a given) or Guild. If you want a Martin, the current crop are as good as ever.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
The other thing to consider is the bracing. Martin changed the bracing from the classic pre-war recipe in the 1940s. I think this was done because people were putting very heavy strings on to be heard when playing with horn sections etc. With strings that normal humans like to use, this makes them a bit dead sounding compared with the ones with the pre-war style bracing. The standard D28 has retained this bracing, but the D18 has gone back to the pre-war style since 2012.
There are D28 models available with the pre-war bracing (like the HD28V and HD28 Retro). Martin refer to the bracing as "forward shifted" if you are looking at specs. I think the herringbone binding on something like the HD28V or HD28 Retro looks nicer than the standard D28 as well.
I bought an HD28V (probably about 8 or 9 years ago) after trying a lot of acoustics. I played 3 or 4 HD28Vs and a similar number of early 70s D28s which were a similar price at the time. The HD28Vs were consistently better sounding than the early 70s ones.
I played a 1966 Brazilian Rosewood D28 the other week, and I prefer my guitar to that as well. Apparently that 66 hasn't been played much in recent times. It might open up a bit with some playing but I wouldn't put down £7k on it.
If you are not worried about having the Martin name on the headstock, US builders like Santa Cruz and Huss & Dalton make some stunning guitars. Getting a custom build from someone like Alister Atkin would be a good option as well.
The standard model is not particularly less-responsive in my view - but it isn't as bass-heavy and has more mid-range. You might consider it more balanced, depending on your tonal preferences.
With acoustics at this price level, there's really no substitute for playing as many as you can.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I used to use 13s, and then I was doing something where I played a couple of hours a day every day for 3 weeks on the trot. My fingers were sore. After that I went to 10s for a while. I'm using 11s these days.
Feel free to come and have a try if you are in London at any point. Might help the decision making process.