Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused). If your acoustic sounds a bit too jangly... - Acoustics Discussions on The Fretboard
UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

If your acoustic sounds a bit too jangly...

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jaymenonjaymenon Frets: 761
I discovered this today (duh...)

When the action is low, the strings can imperceptibly collide with the top of the frets (in a manner so subtle that I do not realise) that makes my guitar sound a little bit “thinner“ than I would like.

Today I installed a different saddle, 0.5mm taller - which of course raised the action by half that (0.25mm) at the 12th fret. DIY job on an acoustic.

it completely transformed the sound of the instrument which now sounds so much richer...

An easy experiment worth doing before you flog a guitar you don’t think you like (and then it sounds lovely in someone else’s hands).

It doesn’t matter if the action gets taken unplayably high. It will be more difficult the higher up the fingerboard you go - but you’ll still be able to play some cowboy chords in the first position to assess the tonal difference.

You can then always find a tech to lower it very slightly (or alternatively) place a 0.5mm bone shim under the existing saddle...
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    I’ve been saying that for years ;).

    Fret rattle affects the tone and volume quite noticeably before it becomes audible as actual rattle - what happens is that the initial string transient (which is about double the string excursion of the next oscillation) is clipped off by hitting the frets, and robs a lot of energy from the remaining vibration - but because it’s *only* the transient it’s hidden by the picking noise and you don’t really hear it.

    The point at which the action is just high enough to avoid this is the ‘sweet spot’ - the tone really comes alive and develops the full amount of bass, volume and sustain. Raising it further barely improves it, if at all, and just makes it harder to play. The trick is to find that sweet spot... and then not to lose it by lowering the bridge too far.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • jaymenonjaymenon Frets: 761
    edited March 2021
    @ICBM ;;What are you doing up so late my friend...?

    ...to think I had come up with something revolutionary :anguished: 
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  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 595
    edited March 2021
    Moving up from your 11's, tuning up half a tone, playing less loud, raising saddle as described, trying fingerpicks. Or any combination of these! Low saddle actions on acoustics not loved by acoustic players which is why so many ship with 'high' actions. Fiddling with saddle often rewarding and easy to do. Get a height gauge. Buy a new saddlle if you cock it all up. Try bone.

    Try different bridge pins while you're at it. Plastic, wood, bone, brass. And different strings. PB, 80/20, Monel, Chromes.

    Hours of endless fun to find your favourite sound. 

    How do people who don't play acoustic pass the time!!                  <3



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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3144
    Probably by playing guitar rather than messing around with the sound :)

    But where’s the fun in that. 
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  • jellyrolljellyroll Frets: 3073
    ICBM said:
    I’ve been saying that for years ;).

    Fret rattle affects the tone and volume quite noticeably before it becomes audible as actual rattle - what happens is that the initial string transient (which is about double the string excursion of the next oscillation) is clipped off by hitting the frets, and robs a lot of energy from the remaining vibration - but because it’s *only* the transient it’s hidden by the picking noise and you don’t really hear it.

    The point at which the action is just high enough to avoid this is the ‘sweet spot’ - the tone really comes alive and develops the full amount of bass, volume and sustain. Raising it further barely improves it, if at all, and just makes it harder to play. The trick is to find that sweet spot... and then not to lose it by lowering the bridge too far.
    Interesting to read this explanation as to why lowering the saddle has an almost binary impact on sustain/volume.

    I’ve experienced this in my messing with saddle height and wondered why the effect was “all or nothing” ...,when in my mind the effect of lowering the saddle ought to be gradual as the break angle changes. 
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  • DavidR said:
    Moving up from your 11's, tuning up half a tone, playing less loud, raising saddle as described, trying fingerpicks. Or any combination of these! Low saddle actions on acoustics not loved by acoustic players which is why so many ship with 'high' actions. Fiddling with saddle often rewarding and easy to do. Get a height gauge. Buy a new saddlle if you cock it all up. Try bone.

    Try different bridge pins while you're at it. Plastic, wood, bone, brass. And different strings. PB, 80/20, Monel, Chromes.

    Hours of endless fun to find your favourite sound. 

    How do people who don't play acoustic pass the time!!                  <3




    Amen. I've just picked up a used J35 and have had to fettle a bit to make it right for me. To me it's far more rewarding than doing the same with Electric guitars and basses.

    In fact , I'm thinking of applying for the next series of The Repair Shop.

    *swipes covering away to reveal an absolute train wreck*

    "Yeah, well, I'm sorry about that...."

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