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That feels like overkill to say the least.
You don't even need that usually - just cutting the top edge of the saddle into the same shape works perfectly. I started doing this after I owned a Lowden, it seemed so obvious…
http://www.strangeguitarworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/IMG_1220.jpg
(That's not one of mine, I would at least have put a decent set of bridge pins in!)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!
We've used a non adjustable version of this for decades / century's i'e' little off-cuts of strings to get the position of the break angle.
Sev112, Because U can on an electric - U can introduce adjustable (metal) saddles on an electric because the 'SOUND' dosn't come from the string energy going into the saddle / bridge / soundboard / soundbox to be amplified. The 'pickup' transduce's the strings vibration which is turned into an electrical signal.
Lucky we have intelligent people around here!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson