I remember the early days when all we did was clear nitro and pearl dots, but we've been developing our range of specialist guitar finishes and materials for a few years now and have plenty to offer whether you're doing your first project or are an experienced luthier.
Our current range of specialist professional guitar finishes and materials available on
www.rothkoandfrost.com includes:
Cellulose Sanding Sealer Primer in clear, white and grey.
Tinted Nitrocellulose Lacquer in dozens of colours, these are see-through finishes so you still see the great. Ideal for sunbursts.
Strong Tinted Nitrocellulose Lacquer, which is nearly opaque so hides most of the grain. Intended for repairs and 60s style sunbursts with a solid edge.
Solid Colour Cellulose Paint, loads of vintage and modern colours available.
Metallic Cellulose Paint, again in many classic colours.
Clear Nitrocellulose Lacquer for necks and body top coats, available in gloss, satin and matt.
Nitro is available bottled for use in spray guns, and in aerosol spray cans.
Waterborne Sanding Sealer for use under our tinted and clear waterborne lacquers.
Waterborne Primer in white for use under our waterborne paints.
Tinted Waterborne Lacquer for sunburst and see-through colour finishes.
Waterborne Paint in a few popular vintage colours.
Clear Waterborne Lacquer for a top coat on necks and bodies - gloss, satin and matt available.
Waterborne comes bottled for application by spray (HVLP kit recommended) or the clear lacquers can be brushed on.
Pre-Cat Sanding Sealer specifically for use under pre-cat top coat.
Clear Pre-Cat Lacquer, a harder wearing alternative to nitro.
Pre-cat is available bottled for use in spray guns, and in aerosol spray cans.
Thixotropic Grain Filler, for use on open-pored woods under any of our finishes.
Water Based Grain Filler, which, like the thixo, can go under any of our finishes.
These come in tubs - the water based is easier to use but takes more coats, the thixo is a bit of a pain to use but builds up quickly.
Water Based Wood Dye for bringing out the grain pattern of figured maple.
Spirit Based Wood Dye for general staining and creating sunburst finishes.
Concentrated Tinter Dyes for making your own tinted lacquers. Can be used with nitro, pre-cat and waterborne (and much else besides), and are very very strong. Remarkably similar to the S*****c concentrated dyes but with nicer bottles and for less dosh.
Aniline Dye Powders which can be dissolved in alcohol thinners then mixed with solventborne lacquers to make tinted finishes. These are traditional anilines and so the colour fades when the finish is exposed to sunlight.
Standard Cellulose Thinners to be used with our cellulose paints and tinted lacquers.
Anti-Bloom Cellulose Thinners for using with clear nitro top coat, there's a bit of retarder in there which slows the drying time and helps to prevent blooming and other problems.
Not all thinners are created equal, and we believe ours to be the best available. The Anti-Bloom gives a great flow to nitro lacquer and helps it dry to a high gloss.
Lacquer and Paint Hand Polishing Kit is our complete kit for hand polishing your paint or lacquer finish to a high gloss, includes all the abrasives, cloths and liquid polishing compounds you need.
Continued next post...
Comments
electric proddy probe machine
My trading feedback thread
electric proddy probe machine
My trading feedback thread
electric proddy probe machine
My trading feedback thread
Will there be videos showing the process? I'll have a look at your site now!
I could get a swamp ash or pine (I love my pine strat) body, sand back to 400 grit, grain fill, sand back again, dye, and lacquer coat a burst finish?
If it gives a harder finish than wudtone, this could be my method of choice. Wudtone ages great though.
I also saw solid waterborne lacquer - can that be hand rubbed, or is it spray only?