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UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Decent acoustic - what to consider

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Having recently posted regarding flogging one of two amps I don't use, I thought I might start to entertain the idea of buying an acoustic that I won't use. I'd have about 2.5k and would want something that will sell when I've had enough of not playing it OR, maybe, just maybe, something I might take to. I haven't much knowledge of acoustics and prob the best I had was a 90's US Guild which I flogged as i found, when I did play it, it was just too bulky. I'd like something that felt like an electric neckwise. Any suggestions? Ta
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    edited September 2022
    neck wise  ?  Taylor   Ive owned two (a 612 and 614), and they're very "electric guitarist friendly"  the *14 size would probably suit,  the *12 may be a little small  - Also being a Taylor, it'll have good re-sale

    Personally, the old adage of  - go for used if you can, and really REALLY get out and try some

    apart from that -  there are 100000001 choices,  of which you'll get that many suggestions about body size,  electrics or not and tone woods  -  some of which will be no use what so ever. 




    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • Benm39Benm39 Frets: 606
    edited September 2022
    At that price point a Brook would be worth looking at. Simply excellent. 
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    edited September 2022
    Benm39 said:
    At that price point a Brook would be worth looking at. Simply excellent. 
    hmmm I wonder who "might" have one for sale ........   the neck is slim but "wide-ish"   

    if you're close to Brizzle,  youre welcome to come and have a tinkle............   
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • I should say, not looking to buy just yet
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  • Gmd85Gmd85 Frets: 6
    edited September 2022
    I second the buy used advice. That way when you don't use it and decide to move it on, you won't be out much dough, if any. 

    The quality of acoustic you get for your money these days is pretty incredible, so you can't go far wrong as long as the ergonomics and setup suit you. 
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  • Taylor is the standard recommendation for “I want something that feels like my electrics”. But I would advocate for trying a little harder than that as it opens up so many other options. My favourites are Atkin and Bourgeois - both delievring a high quality version of the old-school templates et out by Martin and Gibson. But in all cases the best advice is to go try and many things as possible. 

    And either way a big +1 to buying used 
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    OP - go to as many stores as you can and try every acoustic in your budget.

    You'll read that a lot on here but it makes perfect sense. PMT, GG, Coda, Peach, Guitar Village, try 'em all if you can.

    And good luck. Let us know how you get on :) 
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  • SoupmanSoupman Frets: 172
    If you're factoring in a possible re-sale I would suggest staying with well-recognised brand. 
    Good luck with your search.
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  • ESBlondeESBlonde Frets: 3532
    I’ll second the used and top brand name idea if you suspect eventual resale. Those headstocks give you a bigger resale market even though there are many other better options on the market.
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  • TanninTannin Frets: 4394
    You don't have to go used and a high-resale brand. Either one is sufficient. The big drop on resale is the first one (from "new" to "one owner".)  If you are buying something used that resells for less used  then your resale is pretty much what you paid for it. Example: yesterday I spotted an immaculate Lakewood in a Sydney shop going for $1999. New, the exact same model is $3913. If I bought a new one, what could I resell it for? About $2000. If I bought the $1999 one in Sydney, what could I resell it for? About $2000.

    If you want something that plays and feels like an electric, I agree with Bertie - Taylor is a good place to start. Also Ovation.  (Awful things in my book, but try one for yourself.) Be aware that, to a certain extent, the more electric-like the feel of a guitar, the less acoustic-like the sound of it. This is just physics. You can squeeze the strings closer together and curve the fretboard a little more, and thin the neck profile. None of these do any real harm. But the big difference in feel between electric and acoustic is the action - for our purposes this is both the height of the strings above the fretboard and their gauge. Once you go to lighter strings and a very low action ("very low" by acoustic standards, which isn't all that low for an electric) you just don't get the tone. You get a weak, anemic sound  which doesn't inspire you to pick it up. 

    On the other hand, if you get something that is a no-compromise acoustic and sounds wonderful, you have to put some work into it and develop a bit of muscle. It doesn't take so very long, but are you that committed? 

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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Bearing in mind you only have a "little knowledge", is there a friend you can take with more experience to add thoughts?

    Even if there is, remember that it'll be *your* guitar. Listen, take on board any issues they point out over quality etc and listen to what else they say but tone, feel and looks, that's for *you* to decide, not them :) 
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 5615

    ..... prob the best I had was a 90's US Guild which I flogged as i found, when I did play it, it was just too bulky.
    Without meaning to sound trite, any acoustic is going to feel bulky to somebody that has played electric guitars almost exclusively.  With regard to the body size and shape you can mitigate this to some degree by choosing a "concert" sized body as opposed to a dreadnought sized body, and many builders now incorporate a chamfered forearm edge for comfort that can make the body feel even less bulky.  Most acoustic guitars require heavier strings, a higher action, and more relief than most electric guitars, so that is always going to make most acoustic necks feel "bulkier".  Just something you need to adjust to.

    The trade-off of a smaller bodied acoustic is usually a loss in volume, but not always.  In general though, a Jumbo guitar (wide lower bout) will usually be louder than a Dreadnought, and that will usually be louder than a "concert" size, which will almost invariably be louder than a "baby" or "parlour" sized guitar.  The different sizes all have their own type of sounds and obviously the same sized body by different manufacturers can sound quite different to each other.   The larger soundboards of the larger bodied guitars usually cope better with hard strumming than the smaller bodies, but there are always exceptions to general "rules", for example the woods used for the top, back and sides

    Most builders tend to refer to their acoustic body sizes and shapes with some reference to the numbering system adopted by Martin a long time ago.  if you hear expressions like Concert (O), Grand Concert (OO), Auditorium / Orchestra (OOO / OM), and Grand Auditorium (OOOO), these are the body shapes that are more pinched at the waist and a bit narrower overall than a Dreadnought, and those descriptions with Martin models in brackets usually can be taken as being larger and louder in the sequence given.  Some companies like Taylor have their own naming conventions and their guitars don't really conform to Martin sizes, designs and names other than in very general terms.

    At te level of your budget my advice would be to first ascertain what shape and size of guitar you feel most comfortable with and then explore different brands and woods within that sphere to see what ones sound like what you are generally looking to get from the guitar.  That means going to one or more guitar shops where you can physically hold them, or at the very least finding guitarist friends with different types of acoustics to try and get a feel for them.  There are some good videos on YouTube that allow you to get a very rough idea of the differences in sounds, but your main issue with the Guild was "bulkiness", and you can't really gauge that without physically holding guitars of the different sizes.
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  • Well, managed to pop into Coda yesterday. Tried a couple of Martin's, they didn't feel as 'electric player' friendly as the Taylors. There was a very nice used Bedell Coffee House Orchestra which I liked. I think it's one of those makes that plummets in value used. Never heard of them but very good looking, comfortable guitar. Apparently has quite a narrow nut, and felt that way after the others, but turns out it's same as a strat. So, definitely liked the look of that 'style', looks like this Bedell Coffee House Orchestra ~ Secondhand | Coda Music (coda-music.com)

    Also took a Gibson or two off the wall but they didn't really feel special. 

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  • TanninTannin Frets: 4394
    There was a very nice used Bedell Coffee House Orchestra which I liked. I think it's one of those makes that plummets in value used. Never heard of them but very good looking, comfortable guitar. Apparently has quite a narrow nut, and felt that way after the others, but turns out it's same as a strat. So, definitely liked the look of that 'style', looks like this Bedell Coffee House Orchestra ~ Secondhand | Coda Music (coda-music.com)



    That is a narrow nut. Modern Strats have a 43mm nut, vintage ones are a crazy-small 42mm, barely wider than a Rickenbacker. Standard width for steel string acoustic nuts is 44 to 45mm; 43mm was common in American acoustics for a while around the 1960s but is moderately uncommon now, except in Japan. Some Japanese companies also make 42.5mm nuts (Takamine New Yorkers are an example). In Europe, 44mm is most popular but 46mm is also common. 

    12-string nuts are nearly always 50mm or 48mm.  Classical nuts are 52mm or 50mm with very little variation. 

    That Bedell looks like a corker! It has already had the big price drop so you should be able to resell it at break-even (round about). Outstanding value for money and doubtless a lovely guitar. 

    Red Spruce (aka Adirondack) has a wonderful clear, crisp tone with a lot of attack. It is the go-to timber for bluegrass players, pretty much always on a big dreadnought. It is also very unforgiving and not very good at quiet, relaxed, melodic playing. In short it can be be quite a handful.  Coupled with rosewood, you are going to be hearing wonderful rich, sweet, bell-like tones.

    That guitar might just be a brilliant choice. Or it might be too much of a good thing. (Or it might not play at all the way one would expect from the timbers - there are many other factors the maker can adjust as he or she sees fit.)

    Assuming it is what one would expect from looking at it, if it wasn't for the narrow nut I'd love it, but that would be as one guitar among several where I could pick it up when the mood took me and later put it down in favour of something more gentle and forgiving.  As an only guitar ... not so sure. 

    But this is you. It might be exactly right for you. It is certainly a guitar to put on your short list.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    edited September 2022
    I do like a narrow nut. I think it comes from playing 5-string banjos.

    When I'm playing (guitar OR banjo) I don't like to feel the neck pressing into the palm of my fretting hand either, puts me right off. I like a bit of space, bit of freedom to move freely.

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  • Dave_McDave_Mc Frets: 2022
    Tannin said:
    That Bedell looks like a corker! It has already had the big price drop so you should be able to resell it at break-even (round about). Outstanding value for money and doubtless a lovely guitar. 
    I seem to recall Coda was blowing out the (new) Bedells they had left several years ago... I think some of them were less than £1000 (or not much more, at any rate). I chickened out (I couldn't try them first), and I can't remember exactly which ones were being blown out, but presumably they had to blow them out because they weren't that popular. That being said, that doesn't mean it's not a killer guitar, far too many guitarists (acoustic and electric) only want one of the two or three big names.
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  • Yes, think you're right. It was a very pretty attractive thing (the bedell) but I bet it would be a stinker to move on Anyway, just a first pass so I mustn't be distracted by the price/quality equation!
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    shame you're not closer to Brizzle  :) 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • bertie said:
    shame you're not closer to Brizzle  :) 
    Why?
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  • This has been in the classifieds for a while now, really surprised it's still there, quality little acoustic.
    FS: 2012 Guild F-20 USA - Acoustics £ Discussions on theFretBoard
    2008 Martin 000-15
     2004 Yamaha LL-500
    1995 Yamaha LA-8
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    edited September 2022
    bertie said:
    shame you're not closer to Brizzle   
    Why?
    didn't read my first post ?   
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • Yep, I know. I had a US guild I sold to him! Not that one though. 
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    @mattacjones ;   -  whoops sorry,  I meant  second post !!!  

    :) 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • bluecatbluecat Frets: 429
    Have a look at Tanglewood Guitars,I have had a folk cutaway for 10/12 years,cost me £500 new,all solid wood,never been disappointed.
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  • bluecatbluecat Frets: 429
    It just gets better.
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  • I'm quite taken with the idea of a Martin 00015m. My son has one. The only reservation is I think I prefer the look of a spruce top. Shallow I know. I'm kicking myself for not snapping up that b stock one that was on here recently, slightly different model.
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  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 595
    edited September 2022
    I see that you perhaps plan to move this guitar on at some point. Have I read that right? In which case, the problem becomes not only what's nice but what holds its value best. So, much as I'm loathe to say it (because I think they're overpriced), that's probably going to be a Martin. Buy second-hand as others have suggested?

    £2.5K is a big budget for an acoustic these days. If you're not going to keep it for long, you might consider a good guitar from the very full mid-price stable of current lovelies (£800-£1,500).

    Also, you want something not too bulky. How about a second hand Martin OM28 Standard. Ticks most people's boxes for playability and tone.

    Agree with other comments about not trying to keep too closely to characteristics of an electric instrument. To get the best out of an acoustic you do have to acknowledge that they are different - heavier strings to generate the sound, higher action so those heavier strings don't buzz, wider necks to be able to do all that clever fingerstyle stuff, greater knowledge of tonewoods required plus a knowledge of the different tonal characteristics of the different sizes and shapes and the effect of different strings.

    FWIW, this month's Guitarist Magazine (Issue 490 Oct 2022) has a pull-out section "Guitar Buyers Guide 2022" with a subsection on Acoustics and you'll go a long way before you find a better brief summary of all that. It includes examples of good acoustics across the different price points and little teaching sections. Very informative for the newbie buyer.

    Happy Hunting. 
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  • Watch out for nut width. I can only play with wider widths as do fingerstyle. Thin necks for me are restrictive so just something to try out for yourself.
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  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 595
    edited September 2022
    I'm quite taken with the idea of a Martin 00015m. My son has one. The only reservation is I think I prefer the look of a spruce top. Shallow I know. I'm kicking myself for not snapping up that b stock one that was on here recently, slightly different model.
    An all Mahogany guitar is a good shout. Nice woody tone. If you buy new, most Martins ship with a high action which you might want to lower a little. In fact, coming from an electric instrument, you definitely will. Big shops check over guitars but they don't always adjust actions. You might need to find your friendly local luthier!

    But look around. My all Mahogany instrument (Vintage V300MH - more 00 size) is my favourite for doodling on. It cost £220! Tonally its really nice. To my ears anyway.  And BTW, thinking of your requirements, it has quite a narrow neck. Probably outside your price range! ;-)
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  • Thanks. I'd prefer to be in the 800 to 1500 fwiw!
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