UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45
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Continuing my expensive and somewhat idiotic quest for the 'one', I bought this 15 year old example, blind over ebay
It's proven to be a bit annoying, because the tone is as impressive as Gibson and Martin's I have had costing 3 or 4 times more.
It's got a western red cedar top,, which seems particularly responsive to softer strumming. Unusually for a Tak it has no electronics. Nice and light and few clues as to it's age, other than the endearingly naff pink tuners.
I am not sure if anyone has an idea of what strings might be best for a Tak cedar top?
It's currently strung with Martin thin
Here's a photo
https://i.imgur.com/FzFGqy3.jpeg
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How does it sound? What are the woods?
I would say it's sounds a bit softer or to use a cliche a bit 'warmer' than spruce tops.
Importantly for me, note distinction is very good, even on subtle or minor chord changes.
https://i.imgur.com/lweTxDf.jpg
As usual I would give Newtone a try - Masterclass 80/20 bronze 12-52.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I agree with ICBM on the benefits of brass on a cedar top and have often had 80/20s on my cedar-top Maton. They work well. Our two guitars are very similar on paper, however I'm guessing that a mahogany-backed Takamine might be a bit toppier than the Queensland Maple Maton and brass might be a bit too much of a good thing. Only one way to find out!
That would have used to annoy me too... I can usually get by with side dots these days though. Given the free choice I probably prefer dots, though.
I had read somewhere that because cedar was a softer wood using heavy gauge strings was unwise.
On that basis I made the boring choice and ordered D'addario 80/20 11.52 coated bronze.
A recommended technique for hand-made manufacture (with any timber) is to decide on a target strength and thin the top to that exact strength, thus achieving the lightest possible top commensurate with durability. (Obviously, this isn't the way big companies make guitars. Factories make them all the same regardless of individual variations in timber, which is why (counter-intuitively!) every factory guitar is different!)
Thanks @ICBM
Just be aware that 80/20s have a shorter 'bright' life than phosphor bronze so you may need to replace them a bit more often - but Newtones seem to last longer than most.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I have the AN15, which has a scratchplate and a bit more gloss finish than yours seems to have. Rosewood back and sides. Deffo a keeper.
Some great advice re strings and the cedar top in this thread. Will follow the advice.