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The one used on newer Larrivee's is 3.97mm (5/32")
I've used the old one on my Avalon S7-OAK although I was a bit worried initially about damaging the hex head due to the slightly smaller size
Luckily, the difference between 3/16" and 5mm is small enough for it not to seem to be a problem - the really serious issue is with 1/8" vs 3mm. Fender use 1/8" on the USA Standard type guitars, and a 3mm key *will* damage them - which is a very major problem because the nut is retained behind a glued-in wooden plug which has to be removed to replace the nut, and is impossible without causing damage. Very poor design decision.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
Now I'm a bit wary but if the 3/16" does it....... I just don't see how Avalon can use the tool they suggested as even with the strings off the block seems to be in the way of the truss rod hole.
BTW how is the S&-OAK ? That was an absolute beauty...
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I've used the old Larrivee tool (cautiously) on both Avalons and Lowdens without problems.
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Haven't needed to go there yet, but the way the guitar is settling down it may not be long before I need to. I have a small annoying buzz in the middle of the B string.
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!
I then found the old Larrivee tool on eBay and have used that cautiously on both Lowdens and Avalons. I always slacken strings before adjustment as part of the caution. I've never had a problem although it is still fiddly.
I came across these short Z-shaped Allen keys on Amazon which look like they could help https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shaped-Allen-Keys-5mm-Pack/dp/B074ZS5RT6/ref=sr_1_267?crid=14FHWXNVHC3XF&keywords=angled%2B5mm%2Ballen%2Bkey&qid=1654553172&sprefix=angled%2B5mm%2Ballen%2Bkey%2Caps%2C55&sr=8-267&th=1 . They come in a pack of 50! THey seem as they could at least do half the job of the Larrivee tool.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I have a small collection of those. I'll try to remember next time I go to tweak a truss rod.
Result: the phone makers all stared using USB sockets. Problem solved.
Maybe the EU should have a look at truss rod keys!
May I also add that real men play acoustic. I find it a much more demanding instrument than electric in most senses.
Finally, and maybe I should start a separate thread, I contacted a guitar repair guy in Edinburgh but have had just one reply from him so not sure about using his services but I am getting open strong buzz seemingly coming from the bridge. Another thing for me to check out.
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Also decided, whilst in the area, to take a trip to local guitar shop. I didn't look at a single electric. The store in Glasgow is better humidified etc - was a shame to see quality acoustic with old strings as doesn't bring out the best in the instrument. Anyway.... got to try some big names (with big prices) that I've wanted to try for a while. Lowden, Goodall, Atkin.. Maton, some Taylors, a few Martins were good. But none of them could match my £650 Larrivee OM-O2 and the bargain I got in my Avalon L2-230. My Avalon was better than the Lowdens and Goodall hands-down. I'd actually like to visit the factory now.
GAS is odd. I am the guitar seller's worst nightmare because I rarely buy - I just play what I've got. For weeks and just completely out of the blue, I started researching what's new, listening to this and that and getting it in my head I need something new. I don't!
Some guy was RIPPING it on electric guitar when I was in. Was pretty cool ... but I much prefer just one person and their acoustic, with some singing these days. I was way more content sitting playing the acoustics then I ever was playing single-note lead lines on an electric.
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USB-A could have been a perfectly sensible connector. However that they (a) didn't even try to make it reversible, and (b) made no attempt to make it visually obvious which way round it went, and (c) committed the hopeless idiocy of also having USB-B for no good reason at all. (You will have seen USB-B on printer cables. Nothing much else ever used it.) Result, trillions of wasted minutes. If you added up all the time people have spent in the last 20 years fumbling around trying to get a USB plug in without knowing which way round it goes - never mind all the broken sockets in computers - just take those wasted minutes and pay them out at a modest $10 USD an hour. We are talking billions of dollars worth of wasted time. Possibly trillions, all because of a few brain-dead designers a quarter of a century ago.
Then we have the incomprehensible idiocy of having not one but two different, incompatible small USB connectors: mini-USB and micro-USB. One was fair enough and even useful. There is absolutely no justification for having two of them. None. At least you could tell at a glance which way up mini-USB goes. Shame about the particularly stupid micro-USB plug.
And then we get to USB-C. Finally, finally, finally we get the USB socket we should have had in 1996. Sadly, it looks very, very similar to the daft but very common micro-USB and people are forever trying to fit the wrong plug in the wrong socket. Still. More than a quarter of a century and the idiots running the USB Implementers Forum still haven't got it right.
Meanwhile, some news. The very next morning after I posted that thing about the EU and the phone manufacturers, the EU announced that the one and only recalcitrant company still holding out and refusing to use the convenient, consumer-friendly standard connector every other phone on the planet uses and has used for years would be, from now, required to do so or else bugger off out of the entire European market. We are talking about Apple, of course.
@guitarjack66, chances are that your old phone uses micro-USB and your new one uses USB-C. But you only need a new chord or an adaptor, not a whole new charger. Electrically the two connectors are the same, so you can theoretically use the same charger. (In practice, new phones often fast-charge if there is enough current available, and ship with a high-capacity charger. It will charge an old phone just fine, but the old low-capacity charger, if you use it with your new phone, might take 10 hours to do what the new one does in 50 minutes.)
Other companies didn't even bother replying but John was very friendly and professional.
Got my guitar back after holiday and it was perfect - truss rod just needed tweaked.
And I got 11s put on so it's much easier to play (sounded a bit better with 12s but hey ho)
Said it was the most difficult one he's had to tweak due to the block being in the way - so definitely either a triple-bend tool or repeatedly tuning up / down strings and reaching in with the short end of the tool.
Anyway - all sorted!
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