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just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
If so makes my recent purchase of Vintage V300MH at £220 look positively expensive!
Only joking. Buying a cheap reasonably good quality instrument and 'doing it up' a good option in these troubled times. Just ordered a clear pickguard for mine off Amazon for less than a tenner. Having only just noticed it didn't have one. Looks like you could add pickgguard too if you wanted one. Otherwise just adjusted action and swapped horribly cheap bridge pins. Looked at upgrading bridge saddle and tuners but in fact they're fine.
One nice thing about a wallet-friendly guitar is you're less bothered about what you do with it and where you take it. It's a long time since I didn't put a guitar on a stand but this one? Just prop it against the table. Doodle enhancing!
Congrats on your new instrument. Some more description would be interesting please :-)
PS: which bit is the coffee table?
@DavidR The 'abalone' rosette appears to be some kind of transfer type deign and not the real thing. And while it may be described as 'Mahogany' I'd be surprised if that Mahogany is any thicker than laminate. The guitar feels very light so to my untrained eye it doesn't give off a 'premium' feel at all. This is not any kind of deal breaker at all,it's just that my other guitars are more solid,for want of a better word.
There are some interesting string wraps on the headstock where the strings dont even go through the eyelet on the tuners but that will be remedied by new strings.
I havent tried the pick up yet but will get to that in due course.
That looks a decent guitar.
tomatos tomatos
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
......................... Im not overly worried
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
Neck relief - easy and reversible, just need an Allen key and string height measure ruler and suss out which way to turn. Bridge saddle - again easy. Measure with string height ruler, draw line on bottom of bridge saddle and sand down with sandpaper and sanding block. Or table! Take it down slowly in increments as you learn but, if you mess up, get another saddle and start again. An opportunity to change saddle too to e.g. bone. Nut - a bit more dodgy because nuts, though not impossible for the mere enthusiast, are more difficult to swap in and out. You'll definitely need proper files and, in my experience, these aren't always on Amazon and have to be sourced from a more specialist guitar stockist. Do it very very slowly, I just do 5 filing actions per slot at a time and then restring and test play and then +/- repeat. Some experience essential. (But you'll only get that by having a go!)
Fretwork will require a luthier if you're just a keen player IMO. Other bigger things, like a twisted neck or a bowed up top are very rare but are major luthier jobs. And expensive.
A lot of action adjustment is just knowledge of how a guitar works and what actually constitutes the components of action. Especially really getting an understanding of neck relief. Getting it all eventually right is very satisfying.
Top tips - sight down a fretboard from the head end to look at general action and neck relief. Put the guitar on a stand and then stand above it and look down the fretboard from this compressed perspective. You can actually see things like neck relief, straightness and overall string height. Make changes slowly and step by step.
For another reason, it gives me an excuse to take the guitar into Paul, who will very likely do a better job than I can, who has a vast wealth of experience and is happy to pass bits of it on, and who charges very little for it. It also reminds him that I exist and I'm now up to #3 on his waiting list for a new guitar, and that it's nearly time to start looking around for the woods. (I was #5 when I put my deposit down. Slowly, slowly he will get around to my build.)