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UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45

Truss Rod adjustment query

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VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
in Acoustics
Hi guys, apologies for my inexperience here but I'm used to electrics where the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock, and where when you're looking down towards the body, the adjustment is lefty loosey, righty tighty.

Last month I picked up a very nice Yamaha LL6RM where the truss rod adjustment is accessed from the soundhole ie looking up towards the headstock. I'd like to give it a slight tighten to bring the action down just a tad but I'm not sure whether it's still righty righty and lefty loosey when looking towards the headstock or whether it's reversed (as looking down from headstock, this would 'reverse' if that makes sense).

I'm guessing the truss rod is fitted such that it's still lefty loosey righty  tighty, ...but you know what they say about assume! 



 
I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    edited December 2021
    Yes, right to tighten but, if it feels it doesn't want to turn, don't force it  
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    Many thanks, appreciate the fast response. 

    The guitar didn't come with a truss rod. Would you, or anyone else, happen to know the correct size for a Yamaha?
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    Ignore that, found the right size. Adjusts smoothly.  :)
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    Adjusted the truss rod gently, just a bit at a time. Now got the action set up really nicely for a good balance as between finger picking and single note fiddly bits.  
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Glad it's worked out well. Have fun. Merry Christmas to you and yours :) 
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    Mellish said:
    Glad it's worked out well. Have fun. Merry Christmas to you and yours  
    Many thanks @Mellish, and a merry Xmas to you and yours too.  Stay safe and well. 
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24559
    I’ve always found with an unknown truss rod it’s worth a bit of lefty loosey first to check what it’s like and see if it’s working 
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    I’ve always found with an unknown truss rod it’s worth a bit of lefty loosey first to check what it’s like and see if it’s working 
    Agreed ...but the guitar is virtually new and I could feel the truss rod was working very smoothly right off.  If I'd have felt any undue tightness or resistance I'd have loosened it slightly first.
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24559
    Voxman said:
    I’ve always found with an unknown truss rod it’s worth a bit of lefty loosey first to check what it’s like and see if it’s working 
    Agreed ...but the guitar is virtually new and I could feel the truss rod was working very smoothly right off.  If I'd have felt any undue tightness or resistance I'd have loosened it slightly first.
    Yeah - if new I think it’s less important - but on an older guitar that might not have been adjusted for quite a while..
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    edited December 2021
    Voxman said:
    I’ve always found with an unknown truss rod it’s worth a bit of lefty loosey first to check what it’s like and see if it’s working 
    Agreed ...but the guitar is virtually new and I could feel the truss rod was working very smoothly right off.  If I'd have felt any undue tightness or resistance I'd have loosened it slightly first.
    Yeah - if new I think it’s less important - but on an older guitar that might not have been adjusted for quite a while..
    Absolutely, and that's something I did on every one of my electrics that were nearly all bought pre-owned. With older guitars I'm right with you in that you can't be too careful!
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • SpikeedogSpikeedog Frets: 43
    I would usually check the saddle height on a new acoustic before adjusting the truss rod. Yamaha tend to be high when brand new. The shop should offer to set it up for you after you've played it for a while.

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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4400
    Spikeedog said:
    I would usually check the saddle height on a new acoustic before adjusting the truss rod. Yamaha tend to be high when brand new. The shop should offer to set it up for you after you've played it for a while.

    Guitar was about a year old and in mint condition that I bought second hand. Saddle height seems fine and I'm now happy with the action.
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 69426
    I would always check and adjust the truss rod first - or at least after the nut height. Lowering the saddle instead of reducing the relief produces the classic bad setup where the action is too high in the middle of the neck but it chokes out at the top.

    Nut - relief - bridge is the order in which each adjustment doesn't affect the ones before.

    Plus, it's much easier to reverse a truss rod adjustment than a saddle you've lowered too much.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • bertiebertie Frets: 12145
    ICBM said:


    Plus, it's much easier to reverse a truss rod adjustment than a saddle you've lowered too much.
    ooh we've all been there......................
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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