UNPLANNED DOWNTIME: 12th Oct 23:45
Acoustic advice/education - good all rounder.
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I must admit that I know quite a lot less about acoustic guitars than I do electric.
For some time now I've been toying with the idea of parting with most of my electrics and buying a half decent acoustic - something I can just pick up, play and enjoy without needing to thing about amps, tone, effects or anything else.
For that reason, I'd be wanting something that's a good all rounder; something that can handle some heavy strumming but something that still responds well to fingerstyle playing.
This is where my lack of knowledge trips me up. All I know is my last acoustic was a dreadnought which did the strumming and flat picking stuff very well but wasn't great at responding to finer inputs of finger picking.
Is there a shape/type/manufacturer even of acoustic steel string guitar that lends itself to pretty much everything?
Ta much in advancement.
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
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Gibson J-45 if you do...
Neither of them do *really* heavy strumming well, but both will handle a bit more thumping than they're normally associated with. Any more than that and you're probably getting into Dreadnoughts and Jumbos - although in my opinion they're similarly not as bad for fingerpicking as often thought, especially anything with lighter/scalloped bracing, eg a Martin HD-28.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
000s have narrower necks usually, but a shorter scale and don't seem quite as suitable for strumming, to me.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
And they fingerstyle exceptionally well especially if you’re a bit heavy handed on medium strings
A great all rounder
Personally, I think the Jumbo size is the best all-rounder
1.75 inch wide nut is a good idea
What do you want to spend?
And for a mix of strumming and fingerstyle, a dred or a jumbo will do at a pinch, but an OM / 808 / grand auditorium / whatever else they are calling that shape this week rules supreme.
Will also depend on whether I buy new or used. New will give me more options, assuming one can still go into a guitar shop in the autumn and try out a load of different guitars. Used might give me a better price but less choice.
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
I certainly feel like it's a better compromise being a great strummer and good fingerpicker, compared with something like a 00 which is wonderful for fingerpicking but farts out when hit too hard
I'd say learn the price ranges, and decide what level you are going for
I concentrate on the upmarket "boutique" ones now: Lowden, Avalon, Fylde, Bourgeois, Goodall, etc
These are the equivalent of custom shop fenders, but I strongly believe that the extra cash spent makes a much bigger difference with acoustics. These brands typically have between 2 and 30 people working on making the guitars, some really are just 2 or 3 people. This is the old-fashioned way to build classicals and acoustics, a master luthier and their assistants.
Acoustics can be improved considerably by expert attention to the woods during the build, since wood differs a lot, and it's just the wood making the sounds here, not pickups.
These start at £3k new, £3k-£5k being the range that are sold most often
Buying used, £2k-£3k is the normal range, but you will find the occasional one for £1500
These overlap a lot in price with the big makers: Gibson, Martin, Taylor, Larrivee
I've found that you normally need to spend a lot more with these brands to get the quality of sound of the "boutique" makes.
I'm no expert in the lower-price brackets, but generally it will either be: made in the Far East, or more mass-production style manufacture in North America or Europe.
I've played good instruments from Furch, Stonebridge (same thing I think), Blueridge.
Hard to know how to judge these until you've tried the boutique level ones to provide a comparison. I was amazed when I first tried the boutique ones.
The J-45 is middier-sounding and less boomy than any of them, which to me makes it a better all-rounder but less good as an outright strummer.
They are now, but older ones are 1-11/16".
Edit: checked the dates, 1939-2014 apart from specials like the Woody Guthrie edition.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
Cutaway or non-cutaway, is there that much difference in tone/volume if the guitar has a cutaway?
I can't see me needing one to be honest.
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
Might also be fine for cheaper ones, I don't know
Cutaways cost extra to make though, so it will make a difference to what you get for the cash, especially if buying new
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.
Could I therefore also suggest the Yamaha FG5 (dreadnought - about £1,200 - made in China and finished in Japan) and the very worthy Yamaha FG830 (dreadnought - about £380 - China). I have both instruments. They sound good and rate 'excellent' on the value scale. You might find the FG5 a bit difficult to find new now but have a word with Yamaha London and they will help you find one or order one for you from Hamamatsu. 'Far East' shouldn't be dismissed in comparison with the volume US makers - they're all mass-produced. And actually, the Far East has been making stringed instruments for a lot longer than the US if you think about it!
All the advice on more expensive instruments is good and I have a (US made) Martin OM28 as my 'posh' instrument. OM sized instruments are smaller than dreadnoughts and will (generally) have a little less lower end 'boom'. If you can get a 'Re-imagined' version of the instrument (now the 'Standard' OM28 and about £2,900) they are very nice. The current iteration of the OM28 is the 'Modern Deluxe' and has a few updates but retails for much more (about £3,900). You really should try all the other instruments suggested. They are all quite different in character and tone and you will find a favourite.
Of my 3 acoustics, the FG5 is my favourite but that doesn't mean it would be yours. The best valued of the 3 is the FG830 - I have no idea how Yamaha can market such a good instrument for the price.
Don't assume US instruments are best as might be implied by the overall content of this thread. Give any instrument you buy to a luthier to set (usually lower) the action for you as you like it. The setup done by shops is usually just a quick checkover rather than a full assessment of action at the nut, bridge saddle and neck relief. Changing the nuts, bridge saddles (perhaps to bone), bridge pins (e.g to bone, ebony, brass) and strings on the cheaper end instruments can markedly improve them so suggest doing that to the luthier whilst they're at it. (Actually, changing/fiddling with bridge saddles and bridge pins is easy enough to do yourself, but I have never had the confidence to do too much to nuts - less margin of error and more difficult to swap).
Have fun looking.
(Disclaimer: I haven't played this particular Takamine model and don't know the seller. Make your own judgements.)
I meant April. ~ Simon Weir
Bit of trading feedback here.