Query failed: connection to localhost:9312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused).
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
I just didn't know whether it would be worth having it seen too ?
If you have a guitarist buddy get them to have a look and see what they think. If you don't have anyone to ask then I reckon it is worth having a reputable local tech have a look - it will cost you a bit, but better that than have a marginally playable instrument to learn on.
Remember, it's easier to criticise than create!
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!
Marlin
You can check the nut height yourself very easily - hold the guitar normally and press each string in turn down at the third fret (so the string is also resting on the second fret). Then look at the gap between the string and the first fret. If the gap is small - less than a quarter of the string diameter and preferably as small as a tenth of it, especially for the thicker strings - then all is good. If it's larger than that, and especially if it's about the same as the string diameter or more, then it's too high. You can do this by eye, you don't need feeler gauges or anything.
An over-high nut will not only make fretting the strings hard work and your fingers sore, it will also make the guitar sound out of tune, even if you've tuned the open strings perfectly. This is a major cause of 'guitar not staying in tune' problems - it's actually that it's not *playing* in tune, if that makes sense.
Nut height adjustment is a professional job if you haven't done one before - you need experience and the right tools.
The second most important thing to get right is the neck 'relief' or curvature, which affects the action higher up the neck. This is adjusted with the truss rod, which although it can be done by an amateur, is a bit scary at first!
Finally, the bridge height which is what most people think of as the 'action adjustment' is really a professional job too if you're not experienced, especially on a guitar with an under-saddle bridge pickup, like this - if you don't do it right the pickup may not work properly.
The average guitar which feels 'OK' from the factory can be improved quite a lot in all these ways by someone who knows what they're doing, and the difference it can make to how easily the guitar plays and how good it sounds can be remarkable, even if you thought it was OK beforehand.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
but who laid your floor ?
And are the silver chairs and mirrors yours or your mrs’ and whose are the oaks ones?
Floor laid by awesome local tiler.
Silver chairs and mirrors belong to my wife, as does everything else I own.
Oak ones also belong to my wife, as I am married.
1. You have any fret buzz
2. The action is painfully high and the saddle needs 'shaving'
If you are happy wth the string height and there's no fret buzz, just play it until you get to know it better.